Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner
1 - 20 of 29 Posts

·
Angry bunny
Joined
·
4,948 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Went to set up my Stans today for a 24hr that I have coming up.
All AOK except for 1 of my 4 wheels which would not air up.
Investigation showed that it is leaking from the valve hole and as a result I cannot even get enough pressure to get the bead to snap in place.
Checked the valve and it seems Ok but just to be sure I also tried a new stem with the same result.
Anyone have any ideas??
Replace the tape??

I am using Stans Arch rims, yellow tape and Stans valve stems.
 

·
Carbon & Ti rule
Joined
·
5,410 Posts
I use a very fine oring on mine when I put it together & cover it with stans when I put it together.

As you know spinning the wheel will not cover valve to help it seal so just keep flipping it so the stans can get to the rim by the valve.
 

·
Angry bunny
Joined
·
4,948 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Nope.
Looks like new tape it is.
Also realised that the wheel is leaking around some of the nearby nipples so there is a hole in the tape nearby.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
628 Posts
When I first built my ZTR Flows, I aired up some tyres temporarily for photos with tape and a valve. I found that compared to a split tube, they were much harder to air up. I also threw some goop in there to see how that went and the beads leaked thin green milk and didn't hold air very well.

I went back to the Continental MTB26 tube with removeable cores. They now hold air better than any (whole) tube I ever used and even with the ZTR rims, I am convinced that it is still the way to go. I only use enough goop to seal the bead as we just don't get many punctures in Brisbane and the weight of active sealant is of no use.

I know this is probably not to your liking because of the weight of the split tube, but think about a thin layer of filament tape and a goop free tyre and the weight of the MTB26 split in half isn't that bad. The ease of airing and sealing is also brilliant and doesn't seem to reject tyres the way other methods do.

You may also be able to find a lighter candidate than the MTB26, so it could turn out quite a good idea. Good luck soughting it out either way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,000 Posts
MagicCarpet said:
When I first built my ZTR Flows, I aired up some tyres temporarily for photos with tape and a valve. I found that compared to a split tube, they were much harder to air up. I also threw some goop in there to see how that went and the beads leaked thin green milk and didn't hold air very well.

I went back to the Continental MTB26 tube with removeable cores. They now hold air better than any (whole) tube I ever used and even with the ZTR rims, I am convinced that it is still the way to go. I only use enough goop to seal the bead as we just don't get many punctures in Brisbane and the weight of active sealant is of no use.

I know this is probably not to your liking because of the weight of the split tube, but think about a thin layer of filament tape and a goop free tyre and the weight of the MTB26 split in half isn't that bad. The ease of airing and sealing is also brilliant and doesn't seem to reject tyres the way other methods do.

You may also be able to find a lighter candidate than the MTB26, so it could turn out quite a good idea. Good luck soughting it out either way.
:confused:

Recommending a split tube in a stans rim? Seems pretty backwards to me. I have 6 stans rims (4 flow, 2 355) and have absolutely no trouble airing them up with just yellow tape and valves. I did find that the wider flows are usually a bit harder to air up with a floor pump, which is likely due to the wider width. Also, certain tires are easier than others. I would never recommend someone put a split tube in a stans rim, they are more than adequate without. A split tube in a stans rim seems to be a fix to a problem that doesn't exist.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
100 Posts
New tape

Several times I have had just the same problem you describe. Every time it was the tape. I get a thorn that gets deep enough into the tire and with just the right hit will puncture the tape at one of the nipple holes on the rim. Makes bubbling around nipples when trying to air up. Last time instead of replacing the stans tape I used a narrow strip of Gorilla tape. Just enough to cover the holes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
885 Posts
replace tape sounds good or just a section.

i use the oring on mine and it helps....till they wear out! :) replacable and cheap and does the trick.
 

·
I'm a unitard!
Joined
·
1,514 Posts
You don't need to retape if it is only leaking around the valve.

Get an old tube that you were going to throw out. Cut out a small piece that will fit in the valley of the rim and cover the entire valve hole. Poke a small hole in it. Push your valve through the hole of the piece of tube. Then insert the valve. Screw on the valve stem nut (or whatever it's called) tightly. I run this regardless of whether or not I have new tape. Works like a dream.
 

·
I'm a unitard!
Joined
·
1,514 Posts
TR said:
Nope.
Looks like new tape it is.
Also realised that the wheel is leaking around some of the nearby nipples so there is a hole in the tape nearby.
ok, so you do need new tape. Missed this post, but I would do the tube thing anyway.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,289 Posts
I've converted many rims and tires and purchased a set of flows recently. I installed the yellow tape then aired a tube in the tire overnight, it was the smoothest conversion yet. I always overlap the tape (nylon or in this case stan's yellow tape) several inches away from the valve hole, cut a small X with a razor and push the valve through. I make sure the inside rim is drilled out the larger size as per stan's recommendation so it seats properly in the hole. I don't know if any of this helps or not.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,135 Posts
You don't need to retape if it is only leaking around the valve.

Get an old tube that you were going to throw out. Cut out a small piece that will fit in the valley of the rim and cover the entire valve hole. Poke a small hole in it. Push your valve through the hole of the piece of tube. Then insert the valve. Screw on the valve stem nut (or whatever it's called) tightly. I run this regardless of whether or not I have new tape. Works like a dream.
+1 on this. But easier if u use ones with removable cores. (as stated below)

Hey, I love ghetto, but I would probably not do in Stans rim but it depends on the tire and how easy the bead flips. Hard bead flip, usually easy seal and versa visa. Ghetto easier to seal because of rubber around the hook/bead interface.
1st thing I would do is, if the bead flips over too easy you still need a couple of layers of tape. I really like Gorrilla tape over yellow. Seems to hold up a bit better for me.
I have been using it with old cut out presta valves stems (with removable cores) from old tubes from some of my previous ghetto setups. So I don't have to buy valve stems.

Anyway the bead flip rule is usually how I know I will get it to air up easy and seal the lil leaks.

Btw, I always use sealant even with ghetto despite the weight so I have the puncture saftey.
Hope this makes sense I am sleepy, it is very early.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
628 Posts
tiflow_21 said:
:confused:

Recommending a split tube in a stans rim? Seems pretty backwards to me. I have 6 stans rims (4 flow, 2 355) and have absolutely no trouble airing them up with just yellow tape and valves. I did find that the wider flows are usually a bit harder to air up with a floor pump, which is likely due to the wider width. Also, certain tires are easier than others. I would never recommend someone put a split tube in a stans rim, they are more than adequate without. A split tube in a stans rim seems to be a fix to a problem that doesn't exist.
It really makes me laugh when I see comments like this. It's almost as funny as reading thread after thread like this one. People doing it the way it should be done - apparently - according to them anyway. On the other hand, here I am doing it the way I do. No active sealant, no problems airing up, no leaking tape, no leaking valves, no weeping, no burping, no green milk around my bead and a whopping 2psi drop per week. WTF is wrong with me LOL.

Man, I better start doing it right soon or I might never know the dramas that come with it. I know there are plenty of people out there not having any trouble with tape and a valve, but I do know that every time I see people having trouble, it's the same old story - tape and a valve, every time.

Anyway, got to get back to my trouble free tubeless life now. See yas.
 

·
Carbon & Ti rule
Joined
·
5,410 Posts
MagicCarpet said:
It really makes me laugh when I see comments like this. It's almost as funny as reading thread after thread like this one. People doing it the way it should be done - apparently - according to them anyway. On the other hand, here I am doing it the way I do. No active sealant, no problems airing up, no leaking tape, no leaking valves, no weeping, no burping, no green milk around my bead and a whopping 2psi drop per week. WTF is wrong with me LOL.

Man, I better start doing it right soon or I might never know the dramas that come with it. I know there are plenty of people out there not having any trouble with tape and a valve, but I do know that every time I see people having trouble, it's the same old story - tape and a valve, every time.

You also don't get the puncture protection of the gue.

But thats your call,But it doesn't make you as smart as you think you are.
 

·
Angry bunny
Joined
·
4,948 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
muzzanic said:
You also don't get the puncture protection of the gue.

But thats your call,But it doesn't make you as smart as you think you are.
Muzz
Ignore him.
He definitely does stuff "his way".
 

·
Carbon & Ti rule
Joined
·
5,410 Posts
TR said:
Muzz
Ignore him.
He definitely does stuff "his way".
Yes I'm just getting bored waiting for the F1 to start.

PS Loving my jet but really looking forward to getting a ride on a Tallboy some day.
 
1 - 20 of 29 Posts
Top