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Firstly, Thanks Mark at Cutter.com here in Aus. After a few phone calls I ended up with the 3 cree basic kit! This is a prototype before I incorperate a b-flex driver with hi/lo beam and flashing.

I have had a CNC program done which can be varied for tweaking to allow for a momentary switch et....

I'm at the assembly stage and don't have a soldering iron or a clue? Us Aussie are fairly innovative and love 'havin a fair go' at anything, so I want to assemble these myself.

QUESTION. What tools/equipment do I needto assemble this? I.E.What type of soldering iron, solder et.? Also do I need a maginfying glass???? How do I stop the driver getting to hot? And should I put solder on the wires before I poke them in the little holes???

Thanks in Advance
 

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Nice housing :thumbsup:

You need a soldering iron with a fine tip, a wire stripper, some solder, and something to hold the board. And practice on something else before you attack your light!
Get some old circuit board to practice on. Pull out components and put wires in.

Your driver will be fine if you don't linger too long.
Strip your wires just long enough to poke through the holes and put a little solder on them first. Heat from the other side and put the tip on the wire and pad around the hold, add a little solder if needed, it should flow nicely.

A good tip is to put something over the LED domes when you do the soldering, sometimes they spit a little.

Other stuff:
You need some heat conducting adhesive thermal compound to stick the LED board down. This stuff is good. Yes its expensive but goes a long way( 5 lights/14leds and still going).
For the optic I used RTV silicone (like fishtank glue)... a dab on each foot.
That gets the optic and LEDs into the light.

You might want to put something in front of the optic, the cutter ones are rough and will collect mud. Some mylar works well... you might be able to find a glass round at kaidomain or dealextreme that will fit too. If you're worried about water tight an o-ring is a good idea too.
 

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Nice housing.
Ditto what znomit says. But make sure your do not put anything on the led domes that will stick to it. It is far too easy to dislodge the dome , and you feel really Pi55es if that happens. It is possible to reattach the dome but you'll likely end up with air bubbles;
make sure that you insulate the driver from the housing - if the contacts touch the AL and short you can confuse the driver permanently, - trust me on this one. Use a bit of inner tube cut into a couple of discs to place on either side of the driver. with holes to thread the wires through.
Or you could pot the driver in rtv silicon.
 

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potting is just encapsulating the thing in something non conductive : wait - from wiki :
electronics, potting is a process of filling a complete electronic assembly with a solid compound for resistance to shock and vibration, and for exclusion of moisture and corrosive agents. Thermosetting plastics are often used.

Most circuit board assembly houses coat assemblies with a layer of transparent conformal coating rather than potting. [1] Conformal coating gives most of the benefits of potting, and is lighter and easier to inspect, test, and repair.

When potting a circuit board that uses surface-mount technology, Potting Solutions recommends using low Tg potting compounds such as polyurethane or silicone, because high Tg potting compounds may break solder bonds as they harden and shrink at low temperatures. [2]

i prefer not to totally pot the driver just to dab silicon along the edges so that there is no way it can short out. but may cause potential problems if you break your solder connections and need to resolder/

I would not silicone the driver to the back of the HS. Incase stuff happens - or you want to upgrade later.
 
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