Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner

1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Angry bunny
Joined
·
4,948 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Looking to shave some weight off of my NRS and want some advice as to where.
Specs are as follows:
20.5" Pro Series frame
Race Face Deus Stem
Race Face XY seatpost
Truvativ Team Stylo cranks
WTB Rocket V saddle
Easton EC90 handlebar
Avid Mechanical disks
Avid Speed Dial Ultimate levers
XTR shifters, front & rear derailleur
Time ATAC pedals
Geax Sturdy tyres
Rock Shox Duke XC fork (about to be swapped out for a Noleen Mega Air as soon as it gets to Australia)

My thoughts are that the areas to save weight are seatpost, saddle, pedals and tyres.
Eggs are the obvious choice for pedals but what about the rest of the items??
It currently weighs in at about 28lbs which seems dradful for such a beautiful XC machine.

Here is the NRS in its current guise.
 

Attachments

·
Lactic Acid is my friend.
Joined
·
365 Posts
Definitely save up for some new wheels, then tires and tubes. Then replace the mechanical discs, those are an anchor. Lots of grams can be lost in replacing that saddle. Then lastly, handbar, stem, and seatpost (loosing weight in these areas is least noticeable). Keep the cranks, those are some of the lightest. You could probably find a lighter BB to put in there though. What type of cassette are you running, you can probably go lighter there too. Hope that helps.

Oh yeah, get rid of those heavy rubber grips and replace them with some double wrapped road bar grip tape. Probably save at least 60g there.
 

·
XC Geek
Joined
·
250 Posts
20.5" Pro Series frame
Race Face Deus Stem
Around 200g a lot of stems can be found under 150g (Ritchey, FSA, Extralite to name a few)
Race Face XY seatpost
Around 300g Carbon post will be around 200g or light aluminum like an EA70 will be around 240g
Truvativ Team Stylo cranks
Keep
WTB Rocket V saddle
Cromoly rails? if so it's over 300g, the ti version is about 100g lighter or you could switch to a light weight saddle like the SLR and save close to 200g
Easton EC90 handlebar
Keep
Avid Mechanical disks
Very heavy and expensive to switch out, try some alloy bolts and possibly aluminum rotors to keep cost down and still save weight.
Avid Speed Dial Ultimate levers
Keep, add alloy bolts to save a few grams
XTR shifters, front & rear dérailleur
Keep, add alloy bolts to save about 20g (for all the bolts including the rear dérailleur hanger)
Time ATAC pedals
Eggbeaters work similar and weight about 140g less
Geax Sturdy tires
Wire or Kevlar bead either way you can save weight, Kevlar are advertised at 630g so a lot of tires are lighter
Rock Shox Duke XC fork (about to be swapped out for a Noleen Mega Air as soon as it gets to Australia)

You can easily save over a pound before the fork conversation, and then you should check into a good wheelset, you may be able to save a bunch of weight there too.
 

·
I love Pisgah
Joined
·
3,406 Posts
That Duke XC should have a steel steerer tube as well.That means its over 4.5lbs if its an 03/04. That Noleen is like 3lbs 1oz before cutting the still sorta long steerer. bigass saving here.

Agree on all points thats been suggested so far. I'd go tires and tubes first after the fork swap. That will make THE biggest diff (for the $/effort spent and since its rotational) in excelleration asside from spending some $$ on lighter wheels. Suggest the Performance Lunar or Ultralight tubes. I've had good luck eith those. The Greenlites are not as durable, more $$, and can't be patched easy.

Duck
 

·
Angry bunny
Joined
·
4,948 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the answers.
I will have to look into the aluminium bolts etc. Cant say I have seen anywhere that sells that sort of thing over here other than just a hardware/handyman store and I am not too sure that they would carry aluminium ones. Definitely agree on the wheels and tyres but wheelsets are dear as poison over here and getting a set shipped from the US is also costly. A good set could cost me almost as much as I paid for my whole bike over here. I am pretty sure that my rims are Sun's but cannot remember what the hubs are (one of the stickers on the rims was peeling when I got them so I pulled them off).
The tires on the other hand are an easy and reasonably cheap upgrade.
I understand about the Avid Mech's but must say I have quite a phobia about hydro's and the various problems that I have heard with them. Am I right in believing that Stan's sell the aluminium rotors?? Does he have them in sizes that fit most disc brakes?? How well do they hold up??
BB is a Pazzaz carbon fibre one like I saw talked about here a couple of months ago so it may be OK.
Any thoughts on a some light tyres for mainly hardpack singletrack that can deal with some riding on the asphalt (maybe an hour a week)??
Also what width tyres do you guys use?? I know it isn't a weight question but I am interested. I usually use the Geax Sturdy 2.1's but I have seen a lot of people here suggesting 2.4 & 2.5's.
 

·
Angry bunny
Joined
·
4,948 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Duckman said:
That Duke XC should have a steel steerer tube as well.That means its over 4.5lbs if its an 03/04. That Noleen is like 3lbs 1oz before cutting the still sorta long steerer. bigass saving here.

Agree on all points thats been suggested so far. I'd go tires and tubes first after the fork swap. That will make THE biggest diff (for the $/effort spent and since its rotational) in excelleration asside from spending some $$ on lighter wheels. Suggest the Performance Lunar or Ultralight tubes. I've had good luck eith those. The Greenlites are not as durable, more $$, and can't be patched easy.

Duck
Duke XC is a 2002 or so I was told when I bought it. It looks like it does have a steel steerer and it certainly was not particularly light.
 

·
XC Geek
Joined
·
250 Posts
Yes Stan's sells aluminum rotors, I'm not sure where you are so shipping could be a fortune. As for tires I like Pyton Airlights but you'll get as many different answers as you get answers (make sense?), your best bet is to check out what the locale XC geeks run and go from there, you can always check the weights out online. Alloy bolts are available online as well but shipping may be a factor.
Where is over here?
 

·
Angry bunny
Joined
·
4,948 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Over here is Australia. Hence the "Bloody Aussie" in my Profile.
Shipping can be OK to here if I can find sellers who are willing to use USPS instead of UPS or Fedex which are up to 3 times the cost.
 

·
I love Pisgah
Joined
·
3,406 Posts
Well heck, I was thinking it was the U-turn model. The 02s not listed at WWs website. Just ck'd. Oh well. Stil will lose at least .7lbs or so me thinks. Plus a plusher and better steering ride.
 

·
Angry bunny
Joined
·
4,948 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Duckman said:
Well heck, I was thinking it was the U-turn model. The 02s not listed at WWs website. Just ck'd. Oh well. Stil will lose at least .7lbs or so me thinks. Plus a plusher and better steering ride.
Steerer and Stanchions look to be made out of the same material so they might be steel as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
858 Posts
a tip

Hehehe not another bloody Aussie :rolleyes:

Theres lots of ways to save weight, most have which have been listed... I do have some other advice for you though (speaking from experience).

If your going to by stuff from the US try and buy "private" if you will. Even if you get a friend over there to order something from say Jenson then get them to ship it to you (USPS is pretty good)... It should still work out way cheaper... But Why?

Everything you ship from Over-seas has either Gift or Purchase on the package, if purchase is marked and the total cost is over $250AUD (including shipping, but the limit for "post" is $1000AUD from memory) you will more than likely get taxed GST, and if your Item should happen spend a night or two in Customs, then that's another 5% charge on top of that. :mad: If you get a firend to make the package as a "gift" then there's no TAX to be had, and normally customs wont touch it.

It's also important to note that if you buy something from say Jenson, or anywhere out side Australia, I am pretty sure it will void the warrenty in this country (thats my understanding), or the Distributer willl be unwilling to help much. Hence you'd be better to buy things such as Frames and Forks etc... here, dearer but piece of mind.


-Cul
Got nice weather in
Geelong, Vic today :D
 

·
Get your freak on!
Joined
·
2,696 Posts
Agreed

CulBaire said:
Hehehe not another bloody Aussie :rolleyes:

Theres lots of ways to save weight, most have which have been listed... I do have some other advice for you though (speaking from experience).

If your going to by stuff from the US try and buy "private" if you will. Even if you get a friend over there to order something from say Jenson then get them to ship it to you (USPS is pretty good)... It should still work out way cheaper... But Why?

Everything you ship from Over-seas has either Gift or Purchase on the package, if purchase is marked and the total cost is over $250AUD (including shipping, but the limit for "post" is $1000AUD from memory) you will more than likely get taxed GST, and if your Item should happen spend a night or two in Customs, then that's another 5% charge on top of that. :mad: If you get a firend to make the package as a "gift" then there's no TAX to be had, and normally customs wont touch it.

It's also important to note that if you buy something from say Jenson, or anywhere out side Australia, I am pretty sure it will void the warrenty in this country (thats my understanding), or the Distributer willl be unwilling to help much. Hence you'd be better to buy things such as Frames and Forks etc... here, dearer but piece of mind.


-Cul
Got nice weather in
Geelong, Vic today :D
I agree, if you are going to buy bigger items, you should try to get a good price here first. I just oredered some wheels from america about a month ago, they had a warranty issue with the hubs, so I had to send them back for my money back. It's a complete hassle I must say, although I got a hell of a deal on them and they were great wheels, it just didn't work out.
But for small items, that I can install on my bike by myself I will buy online, it is much cheaper! For an example, you buy a pc99 chain from america and thats 33bucks, compared to like 85 here! Add a cassete or something to your order and the shipping cost is well worth it! I am trying to use other places then jenson(I have before), cause people like Larry mettler, have equel or better service and allow me to choose my method of shipping, plus theres no mark up on shipping.
But when it is time for me to get a new fork or even try another set of wheels, I might pay the extra bit and get it from my LBS(who will probably work out a deal trying to get it close).
 

·
Angry bunny
Joined
·
4,948 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Cul & Bikefreak
Try this for a cost hike Australia vs US. I bought my Avid mechanicals from Beyond Bikes for $69.95 US an end along with some other stuff. Total shipping on everything was $40US so lets say $20US of that was for the Avids. Therefore this whole purchase cost me $160US or Aust $210.52. Compare this with Aust $240 each end via Phantomcycles.com.au.
I am yet to see any parts that I am willing to buy in Australia with the outrageous price mark up we end up paying over here. I will take my chances with the warranty issues. I agree that you will get little assistance with the Australian importer if you have a warranty issue but ultimately your warranty is with the company not the importer. It is the same problem that I have heard skiers have. They go skiing in Europe and buy a new set of skis over there. They have a warranty issue the next Australian season and the Australian importer trys to wipe his hands of it.
FYI the word straight from Customs is that there is NO GST payable on any imported items unless the collectable amount is greater than Aust $50. This calculation is based on the value of the item as per the invoice plus the shipping cost plus any Duty payable (generally none on parts) x 10%.
I understand from talking to others that there is a clearance fee automatically payable if the item comes in via Fedex or UPS. These to shipping methods are double and triple the cost of UPS respectively.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
601 Posts
Another Aussie checking in here....

CulBaire said:
Everything you ship from Over-seas has either Gift or Purchase on the package, if purchase is marked and the total cost is over $250AUD (including shipping, but the limit for "post" is $1000AUD from memory) you will more than likely get taxed GST, and if your Item should happen spend a night or two in Customs, then that's another 5% charge on top of that. :mad: If you get a firend to make the package as a "gift" then there's no TAX to be had, and normally customs wont touch it.
Hey Cul, thanks for the info.

I was wondering what do you mean by limit for "post" $1000? Where did you find this info or do you know any web site I can read on Australian tax laws for packages?

All this is significant for me because I'm actually building up a light bike myself now. I have bought 70% of parts needed from US and got charged no GST on them. I have just rummaged through my records and biggest single order I had was $270 including shipping. My coming order will be around $330 with shipping so I can expect GST for that one? What are the rules for it?

I planned to finish my project with one big order from starbike (they give free shipping for all orders over 500 euros) but in case I get charged GST on the big order it may be more economical for me to order those final parts separately and pay more for shipping and no GST. THat's why it would be pretty useful to have the rules in black and white (so as to work out my best options) if you know somewhere I can read them?


BTW how did you find service and shipping when ordering from US to Aus?

I only ever bought stuff from Ebay, Cambria, AEbike. AEbike had excellent shipping $$ and their service was outstanding. Cambria was ok on shipping and service was also very good (I had to return some items and they were very helpful). I once attempted an order from Nashbar but their shipping charge was WAY too high. Are there any online sellers you recommend from experience to try for price, shipping (to Aus) and service?!?
 

·
Angry bunny
Joined
·
4,948 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Boj said:
Hey Cul, thanks for the info.

I was wondering what do you mean by limit for "post" $1000? Where did you find this info or do you know any web site I can read on Australian tax laws for packages?

All this is significant for me because I'm actually building up a light bike myself now. I have bought 70% of parts needed from US and got charged no GST on them. I have just rummaged through my records and biggest single order I had was $270 including shipping. My coming order will be around $330 with shipping so I can expect GST for that one? What are the rules for it?
Boj
As I said in my post, those GST rules are from Customs. I actually rang them and got the full rundown when I bought my NRS.

If those costs above are in Aussie $ you have nothing to worry about. If they are US $ then you are probably still OK. If the total Aussie $ value is greater than $500 you will be up forGST @ 10%. SOme itens still get charged duty at 5%. In this case you are up for 10% of the total cost of the item including shipping + 10% of the 5% duty + the 5% duty. I hope that makes sense.
TR
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
601 Posts
:(
toowoombarider said:
Boj
As I said in my post, those GST rules are from Customs. I actually rang them and got the full rundown when I bought my NRS.TR
Thanks.

All the costs are in AUS $$ so there won't be any GST yet. However this does change my planned Starbike order - I will have to reevaluate my options for that one.

You can check if your steerer is steel with a fridge magnet. Another few things I'd suggest is getting bolt on steel skewers (save ~60g from steel QR ones you likely have now). I prefer them for weight AND function.

Another highly recommended upgrade would be latex tubeless set up. It weighs about the same but improved rolling resistance, pucture proofness and ability to run low pressures are well worth $$. I run my own home made version but if you're not mechanically inclined I'd suggest getting Eclipse. Nino sells them here.

For all your Aluminium and Titanium bolts go to www.titaniumfasteners.com (redmist). I haven't made my order so don't know if they use USPS, but few people here outside of US use them and they are happy with shipping $$ - in general bolts won't cost you much $$ at all.

You know I am from Melbourne and I spent a fair bit of time in Toowoomba some time back. If you're wondering why you can only guess it was for a girl :)

Anyway do you recognise this place? Do you ever ride around there? :)

<center><img src="http://gallery.consumerreview.com/webcrossing/images/scan0009(3).jpg"></center>
<center><img src="http://gallery.consumerreview.com/webcrossing/images/scan0003(4).jpg"></center>
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
579 Posts
Ditto on most suggestions...with some caveats

Race Face Deus Stem
Around 200g a lot of stems can be found under 150g (Ritchey, FSA, Extralite to name a few)

Good STRONG stem. You can easily save 60 to 80 grams as suggested, but you will sacrifice strength and stiffness. The least expenive light stem is the Sette or Pizzazz brands from Pricepoint and Jenson that run about 120g and $25.

Race Face XY seatpost
Around 300g Carbon post will be around 200g or light aluminum like an EA70 will be around 240g

100 grams savings from carbon is about right. Sette/Pricepoint has a decent one that is $50 bucks.

Truvativ Team Stylo cranks
Keep

Agreed. Only, very expensive combo crank/bb would be lighter.

WTB Rocket V saddle
Cromoly rails? if so it's over 300g, the ti version is about 100g lighter or you could switch to a light weight saddle like the SLR and save close to 200g

Stealth, with titanium rails is a good 100g lighter.

Easton EC90 handlebar
Keep

Avid Mechanical disks
Very heavy and expensive to switch out, try some alloy bolts and possibly aluminum rotors to keep cost down and still save weight.

Cheaper hydraulics will only save 100-150g or so. Expensive hydraulics, like Magura or Formula will save 250g or more but cost $400.

Avid Speed Dial Ultimate levers
Keep, add alloy bolts to save a few grams


XTR shifters, front & rear dérailleur
Keep, add alloy bolts to save about 20g (for all the bolts including the rear dérailleur hanger)

Time ATAC pedals
Eggbeaters work similar and weight about 140g less


Geax Sturdy tires
Wire or Kevlar bead either way you can save weight, Kevlar are advertised at 630g so a lot of tires are lighter

Tires are the classic balance between durability and weight. Lots of lighter tires than those Geax...however sidewalls will be thinner and you will be more prone to pinch flats. Also, look at lighter tubes. Thinner tubes will save 100g per wheel.

Rock Shox Duke XC fork (about to be swapped out for a Noleen Mega Air as soon as it gets to Australia)

I'm not a fan of the Noleen...too much stiction. However, I do agree that an airshock is your path to weight savings. You can sometimes find deals on Fox shocks...fantastic and will save almost a pound.

You can easily save over a pound before the fork conversation, and then you should check into a good wheelset, you may be able to save a bunch of weight there too.[/QUOTE]

Wheelset can be huge. WTB lite hub with 400g rim and double-butted spokes can save a pound per wheelset depending on where you are starting from. A 2000g wheelset can be had for as little as $100. A 1600g wheelset will cost from $350 to $500. I highly recommend Mike at oddsandendos.com. Don't know if he ships out of the country, though.
 

·
Angry bunny
Joined
·
4,948 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Boj said:
:(

Thanks.

All the costs are in AUS $$ so there won't be any GST yet. However this does change my planned Starbike order - I will have to reevaluate my options for that one.

You can check if your steerer is steel with a fridge magnet. Another few things I'd suggest is getting bolt on steel skewers (save ~60g from steel QR ones you likely have now). I prefer them for weight AND function.

Another highly recommended upgrade would be latex tubeless set up. It weighs about the same but improved rolling resistance, pucture proofness and ability to run low pressures are well worth $$. I run my own home made version but if you're not mechanically inclined I'd suggest getting Eclipse. Nino sells them here.

For all your Aluminium and Titanium bolts go to www.titaniumfasteners.com (redmist). I haven't made my order so don't know if they use USPS, but few people here outside of US use them and they are happy with shipping $$ - in general bolts won't cost you much $$ at all.

You know I am from Melbourne and I spent a fair bit of time in Toowoomba some time back. If you're wondering why you can only guess it was for a girl :)

Anyway do you recognise this place? Do you ever ride around there? :)
Boj
thanks for the info. I think I have a copy of your home made tubeless mix saved somewhere from when you posted it another time. Have you been unable to find aluminium/Ti bolts here in Australia??
I found a place that sells them for motorbikes and there is also a couple of places up here that advertise aluminium bolts which I am going to check out.
I do recognise those places. They look a lot like these places.





That last pic looks almost the same as yours at Picnic Point.

Must admit I dont do too much offroad riding in Toowoomba as the constant hill (cliff) climbing drives me nuts. I have a group of riding buddies in Brisbane and end up down there about once a fortnight.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
601 Posts
toowoombarider said:
Boj
thanks for the info. I think I have a copy of your home made tubeless mix saved somewhere from when you posted it another time. Have you been unable to find aluminium/Ti bolts here in Australia??
I found a place that sells them for motorbikes and there is also a couple of places up here that advertise aluminium bolts which I am going to check out.
Few months ago I rung around few bolt supply stores in the yellow pages and none had Ti/Al bolts. They also told me I'd be unlikely to find such items in the bolt stores here so, at that time, I had given up on them and pursued bolts online from US. I definitely haven't rung any motorcycle stores so thanks for that tip - I'll have to look them up in Melbourne again.
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top