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Cars Hurt.
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I built a bike for my girlfriend out of spare parts. It turned out fine but I wanted it to shed a few pounds for her. I thought WW would be able to help me pick the low hanging fruit and some suggestions for replacements.

I attached a picture of the bike and a list of components weights. On a scale the bike is 27lbs so the measurements are pretty spot on. I'm not too deluded and I realize this isn't going to be a 20 pound machine.

Thanks for the help. :D
 

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I would change in that order assuming you are on a budget:

Tubes for light ones saves 150gr
Tires for rocket ron evo 2.1 saves 200gr
Cassette for sram 980 saves 100gr
Rear wheel 300-400gr
Pedals when she is used clipless 150-250gr
Handlebar for carbon flat bar 150-200gr
Fork for a Fox 80 -100mm 600-800gr

Potential : approx 4lbs

Shed the rotating mass first. If you change more than that you might as well sell this one and buy a lighter used bike (complete bike).
 

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If you want her to enjoy riding - my guess that nice, high volume tires would be a big improvement. Something like Race King 2.2 supersonic. Or even something 2.4" in the front - like Racing Ralph. No weight saving though.

Next would be a wide saddle. Not the pillow variety - but female specific. I would make a wild guess that 130mm wide Amp is not the very best choice for a lady. Better to go in 150mm wide range. Very slim girls may fit fairly wide saddles. You may gain weight on bike, but a properly fitting saddle will be more important then weight.

Then some large platform pedals - but without shin eating abilities. For example Premium Slim PC pedals (http://www.danscomp.com/465031.php?cat=PARTS) - 317g, and they work fairly well with casual or skate type shoes. Molded pins will not last too long, but then they are $25. Or spend $10 for 360g Fly Ruben PCs.

Jenson had some Easton carbon bars on a good sale. Porbably 200+g off.

It the riding is getting more technical, better fork will help. But that will probably double the cost of the bike.

But a good relatively cheap wheelset can easily be a pound lighter. Hard to find V-brake rear rims nowadays. On ChainReaction custom build rear - SLX centerlock, Stan's ZTR 355 rim brake and DT competition spokes is $163. Should be a fairly cost effective improvement.
 

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Your fork, wheels, and cassette are heavy. You have the potential to lose 5 pounds there. Find a XT cassette, a 2gen SID with MoCo. You'll spend about $200 and save about 3.5 pounds. For the wheels buy a pair of Rotaz hubs, Velocity Synergy rims, and spokes off eBay for under $200 and build them up using DT Swiss Comp spokes, and you'll lose at least a pound, if not more.

Like Curmy said, put some Race King 2.2 SS tires on there and the bike will be better to ride. Also, put a Perf Ultralight tube in the rear, and a Perf Lunarlight tube in the front to save 170g.
 

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Curmy said:
Next would be a wide saddle. Not the pillow variety - but female specific. I would make a wild guess that 130mm wide Amp is not the very best choice for a lady. Better to go in 150mm wide range. Very slim girls may fit fairly wide saddles. You may gain weight on bike, but a properly fitting saddle will be more important then weight.
Great recommendation :thumbsup:

If your LBS is a Specialized chances are there is an employee that has been to at least level 1 of FIT training and will know how to use the tool that will measure her sit bones. This will determine what saddle will fit the best and be the most comfortable. Specialized saddles come in 130, 143, 155, and old lady wide. There is no way to tell what size she will fit the best with out the "ass-ometer," sizing has nothing to do with weight, or height. I have had a 5'0" woman need the 155, its just the way their body developed.

I would get down to your Specialized LBS and take a look at their saddles, they may not be the most lightweight, but will be super comfortable.
 

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Doesntplaywellwithmorons!
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I'd start with the fork. An Air-spring fork will do wonders in both the weight and riding departments. She's more likely to enjoy a fork that actually moves for her than one that beats her up as much as a 2 pound rigid fork would. And its far easier to tune an air fork for her weight than a coil fork where you might then have to go through the problem of finding the proper springs.

I'd go with something like this...

http://cgi.ebay.com/SR-Suntour-10-E...Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item414da281eb

or this

http://cgi.ebay.com/SR-Suntour-09-A...Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item414d01f22f

The first is 720g lighter, the second 850g lighter but will cost more, both are air springs with adjustable rebound and a bar mounted remote lockout.

If you need a shorter 80mm travel fork, this one from the same ebay seller as the above two...

http://cgi.ebay.com/Manitou-Skareb-...Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item415076a1a2

Is the same price as the first one, and 300g lighter.

Next i'd look into wheels and if you can build wheels yourself, then you can do something good for cheap. The above ebay seller has nice light Novatech disc hubsets, and any LBS can supply you with the correct length of DB Wheelsmith or DT spokes and nipples, and you just need a nice pair of budget lightweight rims from Alex or Vuelta. Speaking of Vuelta... this wheelset would be a good option too.

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-Vuelta-Team...Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27ab5861bc
 

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amillmtb said:
I would get down to your Specialized LBS and take a look at their saddles, they may not be the most lightweight, but will be super comfortable.
Trek dealers usually have a similar measurement device for Bontrager saddles. Not a bad line of female saddles.
 

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Cars Hurt.
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the advice everyone.
I plan on going to my local shop with my GF and checking out some of their 130-150mm saddles.

I think I'm going to take the plunge and build up some wheels for the first time. Ive been truing my own rims for almost 10 years and am somewhat confident in my ability. DeeEight is there a specific rim you would suggest?

The fork and cassette are just going to require some lurking on ebay to snag a good deal. I got the frame new for $75 on sale and in total I think Ive only spent $200 out of pocket on this bike. If I am careful maybe I can get it close to 22 lbs for under $500 total.
 

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Doesntplaywellwithmorons!
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See... http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=32152

I built that bike to the 22 pound range for $700 cdn at a time the cdn dollar was much lower vs the greenback. Heck, i sell you my last remaining NOS RST XMO O2-SL fork if I wasn't keeping it for a similar budgetlight build I have planned for one of my friends.

As to specific rims... depends what hole count of hubs you use and if they have to be rim brake compatible or not. 28 spoke wheels for example save the price and weight of 8 spokes but narrow your rim selection. If you do a V-brake wheelset its obviously going to be lighter and cheaper. Search ebay for "28H" or "28 hole" and you'll get a crapload of results.

Which reminds me, I have 4 28H rims and a bunch of non-disc 28H hubs I should get around to lacing up and using.
 

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Cars Hurt.
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I kind of accidentally won a pair of Stan's ZTR Olympic rims on ebay for $62. 32h and only 350g. Since this wheelset will be my first build should I get some different rims to practice on?

I am just worried that I don't have the skill to properly build with such a lightweight rim.

The good news is if I get a good set of hubs I will end up with a ~1600g wheel set for around $200.
 

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Hack Racer
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Fork
Wheels
Cassette
women's specific saddle + cycling bib shorts
Easton monkeylite Handlebar on sale at Jenson for $65 bucks

I would not opt for Raceking supersonic 2.2 for her. Those tires are very nice for dry weather racing. Poor for damper conditions. I doubt she would want to swap out tires in the parking lot prior to heading out to the trails like many of us. I would suggest Continental Mountain King 2.2, decent weight, great all around conditions tires.

Then the next step is get her on clipless pedals. The longer she rides a bike with platforms, the more she will hesitate going clipless.

From what I know, Notubes rims are not as easy as build as some as they are on the softer end and require somewhat lower spoken tensions. They also have to have very good tension balance for them to be reliable. These days I just pay someone who is an expert and let him/her do their magic. Some can weld frames, some can machine CNC art, other can build magical wheels.

My final words of advice. Buy another bike.

How much are you looking to spend on upgrading this bike? What is your target weight? Nothing on your build list has anything that is all that light or high performance. You can easily be digging yourself into an upgrade hole if you don't know where to draw the line or have a target. You could easily be better served to find a high end used mountain bike on craiglist or a closeout sale of a 2009 bike at a bike shop. By the time you upgrade every single part you would have two bikes, and unless you are upgrading every single piece from the beginning of your list to the end with XTR and the most top end of parts you are chasing an endless circle of upgrades.
 

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Cars Hurt.
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Cheers you bring up a lot of good points. I never quite did the math of what I have spent plus what I will. I checked my spreadsheet and so far I have $335 into the build. If I Craigslist it I can most likely get that much. I don't intend to go over $600 and 23-24 pounds would be my goal. Before I spend anymore Ill do some checking on eBay and the MTBR classifieds to see what I can get for that.
 

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Depending on what type of riding you do you might not want to use the Stans rims. They are very lightweight and race only, BUT if you don't weigh that much and don't ride too aggressively they should be fine.
 

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+1 on this guy - except a different order.

ScaryJerry said:
cranks, tires, wheels, front brake.
1) Tires, some 1.95 SM8. ($30-35 each)
2) Wheels, anything - Easton XC1.($399)
3) Shimano LX crankset ($85)

sorry man, I know you want to use up some spare parts....MAYBE just tires - until she wears everything else out or until XMAS comes.....LC(cheers)
 

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MTB-fanatic said:
Depending on what type of riding you do you might not want to use the Stans rims. They are very lightweight and race only, BUT if you don't weigh that much and don't ride too aggressively they should be fine.
Stan's 355 and Arch and especially Flow are strong enough for a heavy rider doing heavy riding. There are most definitely not a race only item.
 

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Cars Hurt.
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
chopper10 said:
Didn't he say he had the ZTR Olympic Rims?
Yep ZTR Olympic. I have yet to buy a set of hubs for them. Sadly all eBay is these days is **** resold from Asia. I miss when you could actually pick up a nice used item for a decent price.
 

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Doesntplaywellwithmorons!
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Rotaz hubs are definitely not ****. I'm using them and loving them. So are many others. Novatec hubs are also not ****.
 
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