[glance2]

I plan to purchase Santa Cruz Tallboy Med. 29er FS. I’m 175 lbs. 5 9.5” mostly XC. According to the Santa Cruz site, the RXC build is 27.51 lbs. I would like to lighten the bike. What is are the most economical ways of making it lighter?

Here is the stock build:

REAR DER. Shimano M772 SGS (XT)
FRONT DER. Shimano M771 (XT)
SHIFTERS Shimano M660 (SLX)
CRANKSET TruVativ Stylo 3.3 22/32/44
BOTTOM BRACKET Included w/Crankset
CASSETTE Shimano HG 61, 11-34 (Deore)
CHAIN Shimano HG 73 (XT)
BRAKES Avid Elixir 5's w/ 160mm rotors
BRAKE LEVERS Avid Elixir
BARS TruVativ Stylo Team 31.8mm
STEM TruVativ Stylo Race, 31.8mm
GRIPS Lizard Skin Charger
HEADSET Cane Creek Tapered
SEAT POST Easton EA50
SADDLE WTB Rocket V Comp
WHEELS Mavic TN 719 rims laced to Shimano M756 rear hub and WTB 20mm Super Duty front hub or Shimano 15mm M758 front hub w/ DT 14 gauge spokes, brass nipples
TIRES Kenda Small Block 8 2.1 folding
TUBES Kenda 29”x2”
SHOCK Monarch 3.3

I was thinking of upgrading to Stan’s Custom wheels: ZTR 355 Disc Wheelset with ZTR hubs, handlebars to Monkeylite XC, and XTR cassette.

Any suggestions/comments?

 

[shopcat_cycles]

That weight is pretty good for a stock full-suspension 29er. Already kitted out pretty nicely.

The wheels are going to be a good upgrade, but that is all I would touch. Might as well run the cassette it comes with, even if it is quite a bit heavier. That upgrade, right away, would be a waste - Even down the road, the XT is a much better value/weight ratio(less than half the price of an XTR).

I would avoid Stan's for building up rims - check this thread: http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=576217 - maybe if money is real tight and they are the cheapest around(I have no idea of their prices). Get yourself a good local builder.

Some weight to be saved on the saddle and seatpost. If you end up liking the Rocket V comp, you could swap it for the Rocket V SLT for some OK weight savings. If you really wanna go crazy, you could lose some good weight on the brakes too.

 

[Cheers!]

What is your target weight? What is your budget?

if your target is lightest possible. I would buy the frameset and not the whole bike. XT is good value for the money. But it is not the lightest you can get.

By the time you slowly upgrade every single part to get to say 23 lbs; you would have literally bought your bike twice.

You have 3 options:
1.) buy bike as is. Be happy.
2.) Buy bike as frameset and build up with your idea of the perfect kit
3.) buy your bike twice.

Any amount of upgrading over stock parts is money down the hole. You can never really get the full value of selling parts on ebay or to friends.

I've purchased complete bikes that were too big for me, just to scavenge it for the parts and sell the frame again. I have found this way to actually be quite cost effective. So you can imagine how much of a loss you are taking trying to upgrade one part at a time.

 

[enr1co]

If I was already going to spend the coin for a Tallboy, I would just go for the SPX kit which drops it down to 25.9 for $600 more ( list which is usually discounted some)
and you get some nicer parts , ie. full XT, nicer Thomson post, nicer bars, wheels etc.

Ride, enjoy it some and then decide whether spending more $ is going to really make a noticible difference in performance.

 

[the mayor]

If I was already going to spend the coin for a Tallboy, I would just go for the SPX kit which drops it down to 25.9 for $600 more ( list which is usually discounted some)
and you get some nicer parts , ie. full XT, nicer Thomson post, nicer bars, wheels etc.

Ride, enjoy it some and then decide whether spending more $ is going to really make a noticible difference in performance.

Agree.
Either buy the better build or just buy the frame and put what you want on it.

 

[hokeypokey]

It's actually an $1100 difference which can probably take more than 1 lb off AND you get to pick more parts that you specifically want (assuming the SPX isn't your dream build, which it could be). I'm actually going through this same exercise right now... first things for me are seatpost, bars and cranks.

Obviously the wheels are the big win in the SPX - but you can buy a lot of wheel for that kind of $$.

 

[glance2]

It seems like the Tallboys are in short supply and no one is discounting very much.

 

[twenty6black]

Hey, great bike....here is what I would tackle first.

1) Wheels....a spare set of wheels is always good - they can be for mud and other than ideal rides + training + winter. The upgraded wheels - make these the performance wheelset, with the fast light tires, maybe even tubeless.

To me its all about the tires and wheels for performance - especially on a 29er.

enjoy.....LC

PS: easton Haven's for the 29er - tires, maybe Geax or Conti MK ss - depending on trails you ride.

 

[biglines]

if your target is lightest possible. I would buy the frameset and not the whole bike. XT is good value for the money. But it is not the lightest you can get.

If you are set on buying the complete bike and need a place to start shaving weight i would start with:
1. a set of wheels and go tubeless
2. xt cassette
3. change out the saddle for a road version that suits you

As for the Post below, been there and done that. my Trek Fuel ex falls into the buy your bike twice. now that i know what i know and i know what i want i will be buying a frame and building it up myself. no regrets though, at the time i bought my bike it was all i needed but then i started racing and really getting back into biking and things change.

What is your target weight? What is your budget?

By the time you slowly upgrade every single part to get to say 23 lbs; you would have literally bought your bike twice.

You have 3 options:
1.) buy bike as is. Be happy.
2.) Buy bike as frameset and build up with your idea of the perfect kit
3.) buy your bike twice.

Any amount of upgrading over stock parts is money down the hole. You can never really get the full value of selling parts on ebay or to friends.

I've purchased complete bikes that were too big for me, just to scavenge it for the parts and sell the frame again. I have found this way to actually be quite cost effective. So you can imagine how much of a loss you are taking trying to upgrade one part at a time.

 

[Lonnie4]

How I'm lightening my RXC build

I originally wanted to pick up the Tallboy SPX build, but my LBS had a 10%-off sale and the RXC build in stock, so I started with that and am in the process of lightening the bike. Here are my parts swapping plans:

Wheelset: Crest rims on ZTR hubs, custom builder, $600, weight savings=490g (incl. tubeless rimstrip/valve)
Tires: Maxxis Aspen, $82, weight savings=100g (approx.)
Tubeless conversion: NoTubes, weight savings=314g (approx.)
Cassette: XT, $85, weight savings=137g
Handlebars: Salsa Pro Moto Carbon Flat, $120, weight savings=145g
Seatpost: Thomson Masterpiece, $140, weight savings=83g

Actual versus published weights can vary somewhat on the components (i.e.- tires), but the above changes should yield a reduction of about 2.8 lbs for about $1,000. One important consideration: at your weight and depending how/what terrain you ride, you may want a stronger/heavier wheelset.

I'm loving the bike, BTW.

Cheers,
Lonnie

 

[hokeypokey]

Thanks Lonnie! You're hitting the same stuff I would or did... although your choices are better - I got a Nuke Proof seatpost that saved me ... oh... 10 grams in reality.

I didn't know Salsa did a Pro Moto Flat in carbon - I'll have to look at that.

I really should do wheels though... why did you go w/ ZTR hubs vs. Hope, King, etc...?

 

[Lonnie4]

I really should do wheels though... why did you go w/ ZTR hubs vs. Hope, King, etc...?

The wheelbuilder felt that the ZTR hubs would be a good fit for me (I weigh 135# and ride/occasional race XC), they engage well, and they're quiet (which I like). I was prepared to spend more but am willing to trust his recommendation - he's a great guy to work with, BTW, (Dave [email protected] Dream) and comes highly recommended here on MTBR.

 

[hokeypokey]

I've had Dave build me a couple wheels and they're unbelievably bomb-proof. I have a set from him of King Hubs w/ Valiants that are < 1400 grams and have never needed to be trued in ... oh... 7 years even though they've seen their share of action.

Now that you mention it, I would be dumb not to have Dave build me a set for the Tallboy... of course, I weight 185 w/o gear so I might need something beefier than you're getting.

Hey, what's the deal w/ the 10mm axle in the back? Is a "normal" axle 9mm? Can you then use a 9mm axle wheel on the Tallboy? This is my first bike that wasn't just straight up QRs of the old school and now I have this wacky 20mm front and apparently not-standard 10mm back...

 

[Lonnie4]

Hey, what's the deal w/ the 10mm axle in the back? Is a "normal" axle 9mm? Can you then use a 9mm axle wheel on the Tallboy? This is my first bike that wasn't just straight up QRs of the old school and now I have this wacky 20mm front and apparently not-standard 10mm back...

I haven't checked out the rear axle, but the wacky front one requires getting an adapter for fork mount racks (Yakima makes one). It's a little more inconvenient for transporting (have to remove/re-insert the axle from fork to rack and back to fork), but I guess that's the price for the gain in stiffness. I'll probably just switch to an upright bike carrier.