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'18 Transition Sentinel
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1,004 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
HELP: any DIY ideas for attaching a 'rear' fender on seatstays?

Long story short, I don't like a seatpost-mount rear fender, because of how it interfers with cables upon rear-sus compression. So, I started thinking that I need to attach a rear fender onto the seatstay piece.


I searched and found some V-brake stud-mount rear fenders from Mud Machine and Woodman.

https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?postid=1271620

https://www.mudmachine.com/products.html
https://idriders.com/cgi-bin/album_k2.pl?photo=Dennis/rear_fender.JPG;photo_height=200


https://www.woodmancomponents.com/products/fenders/protector.html
https://idriders.com/cgi-bin/album_k2.pl?photo=Dennis/Oz_rear_fender_1_small.jpg;photo_height=200




However, the thing is that my bike frame (Azonic Saber, or just imagine a Turner 5-Spot)does not have V-brake mounts. So, I somehow have to cleverly come up with a secure way to attach one (like Woodman's) around the "top arch" area of my seatstay piece (pic below).




Any ideas? :confused:



Either that, or simply buy one of these T.H.E. rear fenders (pic's below) and use its "seat-rail mount" option (not its "seatpost-mount" option), and just bear with it (with no sliding-butt-off-saddle on steep descends). Does anyone have any pictures of one of those mounted on the seat-rail, not seatpost? I'd like to see how it looks like being attached to the saddle.

Thanks for your ideas in advance,
- PiroChu
 

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Glad to Be Alive
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42,968 Posts
push your cables off to the outside and you should have no problems at all
 

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'18 Transition Sentinel
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1,004 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
cable routing

SHIVER ME TIMBERS said:
push your cables off to the outside and you should have no problems at all
Thanks for your suggestion. And, normally, yes, that should do it, but...

I wasn't gonna get into this, but - in my case - I'm routing the cables in such that the rear-drlr cable and the rear-brake cable cross one another as a "X" behind the seatpost. (ie. rear-drlr cable comes from right-side shifter, across/around the headtube onto top-tube on non-driveside, then crosses behind seatpost back onto driveside seatstay, etc.) I did this so that all cables are routed less tightly around the headtube up front, especially with handlebar-spun crashes in mind. And this leaves no cable-rub marks on headtube that are otherwise typically seen. Also, conveniently, this "X" also keeps these 2 cables from flairing "outward" & hitting the inner thighs upon rear-sus compressing. Instead, they just flair "upward" together towards the saddle, without hitting the inner thighs. So, anyway, these 2 cables (crossed as a "X") will move up & down behind the seatpost (up to the saddle) as rear-sus gets cycled.

I know, I know..., now this seems like a very "me-specific" case. But - on that note - I'd also like to avoid focusing on this particular routing that I have (which I really like & plan to keep) in this one particular post about DIY rear fender, please... :eek:

Thanks,
- PiroChu


PS.
In case I couldn't describe this sufficiently above, you can kinda see the cable-crossing "X" behind the seatpost and where/how the cables are going around in front of the headtube, in below pic's...



 

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Me-specific? Sure, it's YOUR bike, therefore YOUR rules. ;)

Judging by the looks of the mounts on both of the fender's you posted it REALLY looks like they mount to the seatpost, not the seat rails. Honestly, how do they remotely look like they attach to the seat rails? They mount using one big clamp. :confused: I'd double check this with them, but I really think you're assumption is incorrect.

Barring that, IF you can live with drilling a hole in the seatstay, between the pivots (you can see the spot perfectly in the 3rd pic of your first post), drill, tap and make something to fit through there.

If you can't live with drilling into your bike (and I certainly don't blame you if you don't like that suggestion) then i'm out of ideas for you.

p.s. - nice carbon K2. :cool:
 

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'18 Transition Sentinel
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1,004 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
The two T.H.E rear-fender pics I previously posted happened to be shown with its "seatpost mount kit" installed/attached, but the online shop's description says that a package includes both kits; a seatpost-mount kit (pictured) and a seat-rail mount kit (not pictured - maybe w/ some zip-tie or something?). Anyway, I'll double-check first, but that'll be my last resort, as I don't want to lose the slide-butt-behind-saddle option on descending, if I can help it. :eek:

Though I drilled all the cable stops to run full-housing on my bike, that's as far as drilling goes for me. :eek:

So, instead, I'd probably need a big home-made U-shaped (to go along the seatstay top arch) "base" piece (rubber/plastic) of some sort that can be jammed snugly between an out-of-box rear fender and my frame/stays, and somehow zip-tie them all together tightly. Or something like that...

Yeah, those pics of K2 & fenders are cool. (Not mine, though.)

Thanks,
- PiroChu
 

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I wonder

I wonder how that guy deals with mud packing on the brakes.

I say "NO FENDERS!" That's just me. AND you shouldn't be riding in the mud anyway.
I ride through about twenty water crossings on one particular ride. I happen to not care about the water. If it was that "black stink" mud, then maybe I'd consider the mud flap.

Just use the post mounting pushed up high.
 

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Sweep the leg!
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you want a fender for trail riding or commuting? imho if you need it for trail riding, deal with the dirt/mud...isn't that half the fun of riding?

if you need it for commuting, use a simpler bike
 

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I think an old post mentioned that Mud Machine offers a mount to use when there are no rear brake posts. They may not have it listed, but give them a ring and ask.

Wombat
 
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