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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
BIke is great, but soon as the gears see any mud or water they start 'ghost' shifting - mostly in the lower gears.

Guess this might have come up before, but a quick search has not turned any advice up - can anyone point me in the right direction??

Set up is XTR mech and changers, XT cassette,+ 'Drycables'. Runs fine on the stand. My hardtail has always been faultless once set up, so thinking it must be an issue with the suspension or cable run?? Cables were set up as suggested on the Turner Website.

Any help appreciated as it takes a lot of the fun out of riding the bike at the moment. Thanks :confused:
 

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not so super...
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Have you checked the derailleur alignment? Find a DAG-1 (shop or friend) and check it out. It might have been slightly bent during shipping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
SSINGA said:
Have you checked the derailleur alignment? Find a DAG-1 (shop or friend) and check it out. It might have been slightly bent during shipping.
Derailleur mount unlikely to be bent as it was removed for shipping - will have a look though, you just jogged my memory, a new mounting solved the problem on a previous bike, so you might be spot on. Thanks
 

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Drivetrain

Check you're drivetrain for ware, if any components have been replaced or if it's all worn out you're chain can ride up over the cogs under pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
slowrider said:
Check you're drivetrain for ware, if any components have been replaced or if it's all worn out you're chain can ride up over the cogs under pressure.
It all new and little used.............would be used more if the effing gears worked properly :(
 

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carpe mañana
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I had issues with ghost shifting with XO, so I knew something wasn't right. ;)
I found my derailleur hanger loose, meaning, the screws which holdl it in place needed to be tightened. That helped some, but I still had problems. I installed a fresh set of cables, including thin housing (like the red stuff in Flack Jackets) that go over the exposed part of the cable and voila! no more issues.

How do you set your derailleur up? Are your limit screws set properly and the cable is under just a little bit of tenshion in the most relaxed gear? (from cable tension perspective)

_MK
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks MK - I have spent some time setting up the limit screws, using cables similar to those you describe, but thinking about changing them as the next move....
 

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It could be any of the things mentioned by the other posters..... bent hanger or derailler, worn derailler, etc.

I'd check the easiest first.... and that's derailler cable adjustment. My Spot was doing what you describe. It worked great on the stand, but when applying power, jumped around. It turned out to be the rear derailler adjustment. The cable had stretched (happens to all cables over time) and all it needed was a half turn counter-clockwise on the adjustment barrel..
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks, will give the adjustment another go and check back tomorrow for any other suggestions BFN
 

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Brass Nipples!
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Derailleur fine tune technique

Shift in the stand into your second smallest cog. Tighten the cable using either the barrel adjuster on the derailleur if you have one or on the shifter if you don't. Tighten to the point where the chain just starts to make noise trying to jump to the next bigger cog, then back off unti the drivetrain quiets again. If you have your limit screws set right and the hanger's straight, this should fix your problem.
 

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Bite Me.
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Exactly what Bob said - I find on the XTR it takes a few rides and turns of the cable adjuster on the derailleur (not the shifter) to dial it in. Then, once it gets running right, use the adjuster on the shifter to fine tune on the fly if it starts to misbehave again - usually that cures it. Once the cables stretch you should be golden.

If nothing here works, check to see if there is some cable hangup when your suspension is moving - too much cable hooking over your seat collar QR, some hang up on the stays or head tube. I was bouncing around on my bike and the rear brake (Avid Mech) suddenly jammed on - I discovered that the brake housing had looped over the seat QR and applied the brake - just about went over the bars - Maybe it's something like that..
 

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Gravity Rides Everything
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what are these "Drycables"

half of that sealed BS stuff sucks. the inner liners can hang up etc.

the only one i've had luck with is Gore Ride-On's but those are suppppper pricey :mad:

best solution i've found is to use ordinary cables and housings and replace em a couple times a season. :cool:
 

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Amphibious Technologies
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Bob the Wheelbuilder said:
Shift in the stand into your second smallest cog. Tighten the cable using either the barrel adjuster on the derailleur if you have one or on the shifter if you don't. Tighten to the point where the chain just starts to make noise trying to jump to the next bigger cog, then back off unti the drivetrain quiets again. If you have your limit screws set right and the hanger's straight, this should fix your problem.
Bob, are you supposed to be on the middle ring up front when doing the adjustment you suggest?
 

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Mr.Secret
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uphilla said:
BIke is great, but soon as the gears see any mud or water they start 'ghost' shifting - mostly in the lower gears.

Guess this might have come up before, but a quick search has not turned any advice up - can anyone point me in the right direction??

Set up is XTR mech and changers, XT cassette,+ 'Drycables'. Runs fine on the stand. My hardtail has always been faultless once set up, so thinking it must be an issue with the suspension or cable run?? Cables were set up as suggested on the Turner Website.

Any help appreciated as it takes a lot of the fun out of riding the bike at the moment. Thanks :confused:
GO SRAM ( that one is for Jayem :D )
 

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Elitest thrill junkie
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R.T.R. said:
GO SRAM ( that one is for Jayem :D )
Hey, you never replied to my Sachs PM :D
 

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Elitest thrill junkie
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Bob the Wheelbuilder said:
Shift in the stand into your second smallest cog. Tighten the cable using either the barrel adjuster on the derailleur if you have one or on the shifter if you don't. Tighten to the point where the chain just starts to make noise trying to jump to the next bigger cog, then back off unti the drivetrain quiets again. If you have your limit screws set right and the hanger's straight, this should fix your problem.
It also helps to look at the gears from behind the bike, to make sure the chain/derailer is close to being "centered" on the gears.
 

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Brass Nipples!
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SCUBAPRO said:
Bob, are you supposed to be on the middle ring up front when doing the adjustment you suggest?
I usually do this in the big ring, but I think it would work in either the big or middle ring.

Cutthroat brought up a very good point about cable routing, especially the loop between the seatstay and the rear derailleur and the middle section between the top tube and the seatstay.
 

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Shotgun approach

I've seen a ton of different causes for this problem. Warn parts I've mentioned but theres also bad chainline due to having the wrong spindle length BB or having an adjustable BB set up wrong, bent or loose hanger as mentioned above, an 8 speed chain on a nine speed drivetrain, stiff chain links, bent cogs on the cassett (even if it's new) and burs on cogs or chainrings. I have even heard that some hubs require a spacer between the flange and the cassett but I've never seen that one. I recently had a cassett lockring that wouldn't work on a Hadley hub leaving the cassett rocking a bit causing these simptoms; I swapped it with the one from my King and both worked fine??? It's even possible that the frame isn't alligned right but I wouldn't count on that with a Turner. One other thing I've seen is too short housing causing this in Turns. Good Luck
 

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... I guess you won't be
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every time my spot tries to shift gears after bombing thru a bumpy g-out, or bumpy uphill, etc, I know it's time to change my cable housings - it gets progressively worse.....

I agree - either go gore cables [I still have my Gore derailleur cables working splendidly on my old 1993 hardtail] or stay w/ cheap steel ones...all the teflon coated cables I've ever used [delta, jagwire, etc] have all worn out quickly leaving teflon goop mixed w/ dirt inside the housing gumming it up worse than a standard steel cable ever would.....save your cash, or go Gore ......
 
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