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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all. I recently got the itch to start riding again after many years, and decided to get a decent bike instead of a cheap Wally Mart piece of junk. I test rode many, and ended up with the Gary Fisher Piranha (http://www.fisherbikes.com/bikes/bike_detail.asp?series=genesis&bike=Piranha). The dealer told me it was an entry level bike, yet a high quality one, and its sorta a do it all bike. So far that seems accurate to me. Over the last week I have riden it quite extensively on some moderately challening single track. Big hill climbs, big downhills, creek crossings, granite climbs, and the like. After looking around on the internet over the last few days, I have learned about all of the different bike classifications. So is the Piranha considered an XC bike? It is in my nature to push things to the limit, but my $650 bike is NOT something I wanna trash. So what are the limits of this bike? I have started doing some small drops (2-3 feet to a downhill transition) and have gotten pretty good and landing those. Some of the downhills at the place I ride are covered in roots, and if I go too fast it seems to rattle the teeth out of my head. Will doing these kinds of things hurt my bike, or can it handle it? I know its not a freeride or downhill bike, so I'm not expecting to do any of the crazy drops I see people doing in videos, but will it stand up to a fair amount of abuse. Or should I just stick to the singletrack? Thanks alot everyone!
 

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Welcome to the forums!

Pirhana's definitely a nice bike. It's definitely a good XC ride, with some pretty nice components. As for how much abuse the bike will take, it's a hard question to answer as there are many factors. Your weight, how smooth you land the bike, and how often you're going to do these drops all factor in. I have to point out that the fork on that bike is not one that's going to take a lot of this type of aggressive riding. My advice would be to continue having fun with the bike, but minimize the amount of drops you're doing. If you find that as you progress in the sport that you want to get more aggressive, start doing your homework on the type of bikes made for this type of riding, and $ave, $ave, $ave.

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply Clyde. That is what I expected to hear, and thats good enough for now:) I come from a strong dirtbike background, and I know with most dirtbikes there are a few things you need to or, atleast want to immediately upgrade. Anything like that on the Piranha, or is it good stock?
 

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Leave it as is

The bike has a pretty nice spec for an entry level bike, just like the guy at the shop said. Use the bike as it is now, and upgrade when parts wear out or break. Like I said, the only weak link I see is the fork if you intend on doing drops. Coming from an MX background, you'll find it's limitations sooner or later. :thumbsup:

Just ride it and have fun. Post some action shots here when you get a chance. We always enjoy good bike porn.

Bob
 

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Congrats tripleup05! and welcome to mtbr.... the Piranha looks like a nice entry level bike.... enjoy it and replace part as required like Bob recommended....

Cheers,
Cris
 

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Hey, I'm new to this board also, but bought my Piranha in the fall of 2005. It is a great bike, and has withstood lots of rocky single track and creek crossings. I don't think dropping it 2 or 3 feet is going to kill it, but I typically stick to the trails.

You have to stay on top of adjusting the brakes, though - one ride in the rain + grit = scary down hill experience. Make sure you keep a tool with you that will fit between the spokes to get at the caliper adjustment.

Here's a pic of "Chompers" (on his first ride!)


Me and Chomps
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the tip on the brakes! So what do you think about the compression adjustment on this bike? I can obviously tell when it is locked, but anything between locked and its softest setting and I can't notice it. How about you? And this may sound crazy...but you don't have to turn the dial on the left tube do you? Maybe thats my problem:eek:ut:
 

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The lockout is a nice feature for climbing, but I don't notice much difference between the "+" and "-" on the adjustment except right at the margins. And no, there is nothing to be done with the "rider's left" side of the fork. Not much love for this Manitou fork from what I've read on here, but my previous bike was a '92 Hardrock (rigid), and this is worlds better.
 

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Lungs, Legs, Luck
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tripleup05 said:
Thanks for the tip on the brakes! So what do you think about the compression adjustment on this bike? I can obviously tell when it is locked, but anything between locked and its softest setting and I can't notice it. How about you? And this may sound crazy...but you don't have to turn the dial on the left tube do you? Maybe thats my problem:eek:ut:
Hey, great pics! Looks like you got a little flow going!

I don't have much experience with this fork, but, I'd say that if you don't really notice much, then all is working as it should. As long as you're not locked out, that front wheel is going to be pretty active on the trail, but you generally won't feel much of it in your wrists. That's how it's supposed to work.

As to your original question, I agree with what others have said about the fork, but don't forget to check your headset regularly. If you are bombing down a lot of rough trails, and your front in is rattling a lot, you'll crack that frame if your headset is loose.
 

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Lungs, Legs, Luck
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Crisillo is right. The way you check it is by lifting the front wheel off of the ground so you can try to "shake" the fork. If there's any play where the fork is connected to the frame (i.e., the headset), then you need to tighten it before you ride. You can probably imagine what kind of damage could occur if the headset is loose with that fork rattling around in there!
 

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ZIPYSVT said:
... there is nothing to be done with the "rider's left" side of the fork
You know, I think I answered this wrong, or at least incomplete. I guess that's what can happen when a noob gives advice. The knob on top of the fork on "rider's left" is for pre-loading the spring. So you might try backing that off (counter-clockwise) if you want to feel more travel.

Read all the love for this fork here
 

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Check out Park Tool's website (link below). It's a fantastic resource (and free!) for DITY bike maintenance/repairs. Well worth "bookmarking". You can start from the "Repair How-To's" link at the top, for future reference...

I assume your's is a threadless headset; scroll down through this link to the section titled "Headset adjustment - threadless type". Follow the instructions to a "T". It's important to loosen/tighten the associated bolts in the *correct* order - and a common mistake for beginners is to goof that part up (I speak from experience).

I think you'll find that website very helpful for most all of your maintenance questions - I know I do!

Cheers, Chris
 

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Lbs

Take it back to your LBS and have them inspect everything, making sure that the bearings and whatnot are still in good shape. Have them show you how to make the adjustment. If it has been loose for only a few miles, everything should be okay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
crazy4blues said:
Take it back to your LBS and have them inspect everything, making sure that the bearings and whatnot are still in good shape. Have them show you how to make the adjustment. If it has been loose for only a few miles, everything should be okay.
Yea I don't think it has been loose for that long. Assuming nothing is messed up, this would fall under that "lifetime free adjustments" that most LBS give right?
 
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