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How tight are your shock mounting bolts?

  • Snug, shock can pivot freely

    Votes: 1 100.0%
  • Tight, shock does not pivot freely

    Votes: 0 0.0%
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got an '03 Heckler with 5th coil shock. I initially set it up with the shock mounting bolts just snug, so that the shock bushings could pivot easily on the bolts. No, however, both the holes in the swingarm and the frame mounting pionts seem to have ovalized slightly, and there is vertical play in the swingarm. I did have the DU bushings replaced, and the sleeves are a tight fit in the bushings. I can tighten the pivot bolts up to get rid of the slop, but the shock then does not pivot freely in the frame, which I'm sure doesn't help the suspension action, and will also lead to shaft wear from the lateral force.

Something has got to be wrong here. How is it supposed to be done?

-David
 

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Break your shock not your frame

G'day mate , I wish i could help you but im no mechanic, mind you ive built a few bikes and currently own a Heckler 04. I have a problem too with my heckler if i dont tighten the bolts on the shock mounts enough the rear end has a slight bit of play when i lift the bike by the seat, personally i have tightened the bolts enough to take the play away and so that its rattle free. im not sure how the shock performs with it being bolted in tight but it seems to be fine. If i was you id bolt it in tight enough to take any play away if you dont and it sits in the frame loose id imagine it would get worse. Break your shock not your frame.
 

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Daddy of 3 now!
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same thing here

CHUNKY NUGGET said:
G'day mate , I wish i could help you but im no mechanic, mind you ive built a few bikes and currently own a Heckler 04. I have a problem too with my heckler if i dont tighten the bolts on the shock mounts enough the rear end has a slight bit of play when i lift the bike by the seat, personally i have tightened the bolts enough to take the play away and so that its rattle free. im not sure how the shock performs with it being bolted in tight but it seems to be fine. If i was you id bolt it in tight enough to take any play away if you dont and it sits in the frame loose id imagine it would get worse. Break your shock not your frame.
I just built up an '04 Heckler w/Fox ava shock and noticed the same play when lifting up by the seat. I , also, tightened the shock bolts ever so slightly and no more play.
 

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Trampelpfadbenutzer
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I have owned an ´03 SantaCruz Heckler myself and had the exact same problem with the ovalized bolt holes.It has nothing to do with the bolt torque,it has to do with bad frame material.
Also the shock is suposed to pivot at the bushing and the spacer not at the bolt!
I talked to SantaCruz and send the frame in to them,they gave me a new frame without any questions.
I was told there was a bad batch of frames with problems like that.
The newer frame they gave me has had a bit different looking shock mount,it was thicker and formed a bit different.
Also the bad frame had the "Made in USA" sticker on while the newer frame had the"Assambled with foreign and domestic parts" (something like that).
I would sugest to contact Santa Cruz as soon as posible.

RaD
 

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Snug the bolts up fairly tight. You want zero movement at the bolt. If you don't you'll ovalize the bolt holes.
RaD said:
I have owned an ´03 SantaCruz Heckler myself and had the exact same problem with the ovalized bolt holes.It has nothing to do with the bolt torque,it has to do with bad frame material.
Also the shock is suposed to pivot at the bushing and the spacer not at the bolt!
I talked to SantaCruz and send the frame in to them,they gave me a new frame without any questions.
I was told there was a bad batch of frames with problems like that.
The newer frame they gave me has had a bit different looking shock mount,it was thicker and formed a bit different.
Also the bad frame had the "Made in USA" sticker on while the newer frame had the"Assambled with foreign and domestic parts" (something like that).
I would sugest to contact Santa Cruz as soon as posible.

RaD
 

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Old man on a bike
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An old Heckler problem, you'll see plenty of posts. I'm using a washer as well as some shims that help eliminate the problem (my original mounting kit and first replacement bearing/bolt kit did not even have washers, only the latest one did). When I followed torque specs I still got play, I just tighten them con mucho gusto and no play, for a long while, but it does still loosen with enough riding (I keep an eye on it and it's not a problem).
 

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the old "lift the bike up by the seat slop"

it's good to know i'm not the only one. i bought a torq wrench so i could be all pro about the bolts being tightend just right.....reef on that sucker and the play goes away. i've not had the ovalizing happen to my '03

Bikinfoolferlife said:
An old Heckler problem, you'll see plenty of posts. I'm using a washer as well as some shims that help eliminate the problem (my original mounting kit and first replacement bearing/bolt kit did not even have washers, only the latest one did). When I followed torque specs I still got play, I just tighten them con mucho gusto and no play, for a long while, but it does still loosen with enough riding (I keep an eye on it and it's not a problem).
 

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Same issue here...fixed

I had the same play on my 03. I did not have the ovalizing holes, but I did catch the play very quickly. I used blue thread lock to stop the loosening. I did notice the original bolt set up did not have washers, but my replacements did...not sure if that helps any though? Anyway, I use a beam type torque wrench and something to remember is that they are + or - 4% accurate. Atleast mine is. As some have noticed, just a small adjustment takes the play away so this could be the reason. When you torque the bolts to spec put an extra 1/4 turn for good measure to compensate for the 4%. I don't believe it is enough to hurt the suspension or frame. It hasn't done anything to mine except to eliminate the play for good. By the way, are there any torque wrenches that are 100% accurate? I've been told they all have +/-% variances based on quality of the tool. But I still check it once in awhile to catch any play early if it does reoccur.
 

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According to SC:
- screws marked A have to be tightened with 13,5 Nm torque
- screws marked B have to be tightened with 6,5 Nm torque (in this case torque is critical - if screwed in too tight bearings may be damaged). Using threadlocker (eg. Loctite 242) is strongly suggested
- screws marked C (that's probably most interesting news for You) have to be tightened with 13,5 Nm torque.

Andrzej
 

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