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I solved my Chain issue. I bought a new SARM and will keep a spare link in my bag.

However, with my added legg strength( see previous post ) I seem to be breaking more parts. I have a Race Face Diablos that is solid as a rock but the rear cassette and freelwheel parts are bending and breaking.


Whne I replace those parts, What is the toughest clyde worthy parts out there????????


Thanks

Steve
 

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Breaking Freewheel Parts?

hrhitter said:
I solved my Chain issue. I bought a new SARM and will keep a spare link in my bag.

However, with my added legg strength( see previous post ) I seem to be breaking more parts. I have a Race Face Diablos that is solid as a rock but the rear cassette and freelwheel parts are bending and breaking.

Whne I replace those parts, What is the toughest clyde worthy parts out there????????

Thanks

Steve
XT for the cassette. What freewheel parts? The hub?
 

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Go LX on the cassette save some $$ and it has more steel in it! As for chains LX level shimano is WAY stronger than anything scram makes and don't take off the crap grease it comes coated in that stuff lasts and lasts and laaasts and just augment it with you favorite lube over time unless you ride in dust storms.
 

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For Hubs Look at...

hrhitter said:
Yes the hub. I've broken 3 hubs and 2 cassettes.

My favorite part of riding is challenging steep climbs. And at 320 lbs I put a lot of torque on those pedals.

Thanks
Obviously King's Heavy Duty Hubs will work, but that's Rolex Expensive... I'm not as a big(275) but have had no trouble with HUGI (higher end ones) through the years. I also like Shimano Hubs ($$$$$$$). The one thing that you should do with a shimano hubs when you get them is to make sure the cones are adjusted correctly and that the Freehub is properly tightened. I've had some new ones go loose in short ride, re-adjust and have been good to go for a while on XT's and Deore's.
Cassette wise I've seen xt/xtr 9 speed cassettes get folded from strong 170lb riders, so at your size I am not surprised at all. Go 8 speed? Or 9 speed LX/deore cassettes with more steal but with more weight. Bent cassettes are going to be something you will have no matter what at your size.
Hope this helps
Chris
 

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A pain in your pocketbook...

hrhitter said:
Yes the hub. I've broken 3 hubs and 2 cassettes.

My favorite part of riding is challenging steep climbs. And at 320 lbs I put a lot of torque on those pedals.

Thanks
Chris King hubs. You're going to pay for them, but you'll most likely not break them.

And then shifting in to an easier gear. I'm a masher, not a spinner but there comes a time when breaking parts means that I have to change my riding style a bit. Less torque and more spin. It hurts me for a while since my leg strength is... well, 'stronger' (as in my strong suite) than my fitness but it does save me quite a bit of cash on drive train parts.

I've been running a Mavic XL wheelset on my geared bike and it's holding up. But I don't ride it that often. I've been running a Hadley hub on my SS for 3 years (the bike I ride 95% of the time) and it's just given up the ghost. I'm sending it back to the wheel builder this winter for a rebuild. So that means that I'll be giving my geared bike (and the Mavic hub) a good thrashing. If the Mavic doesn't hold up, I'm going to look to the CK hubs.
 

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when i re-started riding after a few years, i was around 320. first ride i folded over a sram cassette. bought an xt and never had a problem after that. the sram sort of had spokes (that were part of the sprockets. the xt had a spider of sorts that the sprockets bolted to. the spokes on the sram were the weak point and a few good pumps of the legs on an uphill was all it took.
im still int he 285-300 range and im riding an xt cass. on my new bike and have had no problems
 

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The one thing that will save you the most $$ is to work on a smoother rounder pedal-stroke. Better traction on steep techy stuff and your bike parts last a whole lot longer.

For cassettes, Shimano XT are a little more durable but not much stronger. I run SRAM 970s 'cause they were cheaper.

For hubs, get something heavy-duty. Top three are Hadley, Hugi FR (now 440), and Chris King. I have owned all 3, and Hadley is my favorite - stands up to years of Clyde abuse (especially the standard 36-point engagement model), whereas my King was constantly loosening. Big investment up-front, but good long-term savings compared to destryoing Shimano hubs continuously.
 

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i have been riding for years....

i dont know how you ride but i have been as heavy as 280 lb but never bent a cassette and only bent chainrings cause of overloading the chain (shifting too late before a hill) So you might look at your technique as a bigger cause of broken stuff... as far as hubs king are the best IMO and XT level stuff is dandy .... just be gingerly with that stuff that will go a long way

Scott
 

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Few ideas

  1. I slaughtered a number if 1st generation 9spd cassettes - any and all varieties. I purposefully switched back the 8spd shifting and XTR stainless cassettes and had zero issues for 3 years.
  2. Fast fwd several years. Sold off my 8spd stuff with the bike it was on. Primarily SSing. Got a new gearie. 9spd SRAM. Much better built now.
  3. At your size you should be more sensitive to cross chaining the gearie. The torque you can put down simply exacerbates any chainline issues. You can bend the bigger rear cogs, wear out middle front rings and/or bust chains as a result. Recommendation: Avoid the extremes and use that granny instead of mid front, big(gest) rear when you can. Obviously, big front, and big(gest) rear is an absolute no-no.
  4. Hubs: Hadley is a fantastic alternative to CK and DT. Purported to be equal in quality/performance and meaningfully cheaper. Hard to get info on though. That said, I've got plenty of clyde buds, some approaching your size, that rock the XT bits just fine. FWIW - I run a CK HD rear hub - going on 5 years old...never even been rebuilt. Runs as good as day one.
 

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Broken Hubs

Steve,

Over the past 10 years I have ranged from 215 to 305 and was an aggressive rider all the while. I have broken literally dozens of shimano hubs, from Acera to XT. I bought a highly recomended Hope Bulb a few years back. Great warranty, but still broke it twice. I have not made it one season until this spring when I ponied up for the CK HD. Not only is the engaugement fantastic, but with the bolt on rear, the bike felt stiffer as well.

I don't know if you have the same issues as me, but my problem comes from resetting my cranks over obsticals. In the wonderful pawl system, there is a chance of one pawl catching and with the torque us big guys put out, it will shear it off in now time. The CK eliminates that by design (see their website for diagram). I have looked into the DT swiss or Hugi, I can't remember what they are called now, but they had much less engaugement teeth than the CK. I got spoiled from my 36 on the Hope up from about 16 on Shimano. The CK has 72!

A little more maintenance? Yes, but damn I don't have to worry about riding 20 miles into the woods now. It was almost to the point where I almost carried a spare freehub!

The CK disc HD cost me $408 alone, but damn that is the best money I have spent on my ride so far.

You can also see my reviews under hubs for ken50397. I believe I actually went into more detail.

As far as the chains, I opt for the SRAM as well; you just can't beat that powerlink. I was breaking Shimano's all the time.

Cassettes? I shift better now and rarely have issues with my LX. I did just bend it the end of this past summer, but I say rider error.

Good luck,

Ken.

hrhitter said:
I solved my Chain issue. I bought a new SARM and will keep a spare link in my bag.

However, with my added legg strength( see previous post ) I seem to be breaking more parts. I have a Race Face Diablos that is solid as a rock but the rear cassette and freelwheel parts are bending and breaking.

Whne I replace those parts, What is the toughest clyde worthy parts out there????????

Thanks

Steve
 
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