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HeadShok Super Fatty Ultra DLR 80 mm

16696 Views 4 Replies 4 Participants Last post by MendonCycleSmith, Feb 28, 2011

Mrwinkle

Discussion Starter · Feb 25, 2011

Hi Guys and Gals I just purchased a used 2007 F3 in immaculate condition (or i thought) for $500. However i just found out that the fork doesn't lock out and shock bottomed out really easy. I took it to my LBS (Non Cdale certified) and he put 100lbs of air in the fork (i weight 230) and the fork works great far as suspension. However it still will not lock out. I read this thread http://forums.mtbr.com/showpost.php?p=1802943&postcount=4 and would like to know how to change the oil in the fork to see if this will fix the problem, before i have to send it off. Can someone please help me or lead me in the direction to the help thanks in advanced.

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cdalemaniac

· #2 · Feb 25, 2011

Mrwinkle said:
Hi Guys and Gals I just purchased a used 2007 F3 in immaculate condition (or i thought) for $500. However i just found out that the fork doesn't lock out and shock bottomed out really easy. I took it to my LBS (Non Cdale certified) and he put 100lbs of air in the fork (i weight 230) and the fork works great far as suspension. However it still will not lock out. I read this thread http://forums.mtbr.com/showpost.php?p=1802943&postcount=4 and would like to know how to change the oil in the fork to see if this will fix the problem, before i have to send it off. Can someone please help me or lead me in the direction to the help thanks in advanced.

You need special tools to remove the cartridges in Headshok forks.
Your best bet is to send it off to get serviced, since you bought it used and don't know if that was ever done before.
Service should be cheaper than buying the tools to try to do it yourself.
send it to:

http://www.mendoncyclesmith.com/

He has the reputation to be one of the best mechanics specialized in Lefties and Headshoks.
Sending it to cannondale is costly, takes really long to get back, and 9 times out of 10 they eff up.

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PMK

· #3 · Feb 25, 2011

cdalemaniac said:
You need special tools to remove the cartridges in Headshok forks.
Your best bet is to send it off to get serviced, since you bought it used and don't know if that was ever done before.
Service should be cheaper than buying the tools to try to do it yourself.
send it to:

http://www.mendoncyclesmith.com/

He has the reputation to be one of the best mechanics specialized in Lefties and Headshoks.
Sending it to cannondale is costly, takes really long to get back, and 9 times out of 10 they eff up.

Good advice.

I'll offer a different point though. If you are not a hack and pretty mechanical, go for the two special tools needed.

A Headshok Castle tool, and a Park Green spanner.

This is one of the best series of Headshoks they made. From experience I do know that these cartridges will slowly lose fluid and start knocking or not locking out. Once you understand the task, it takes less than 30 minutes working slow to add fluid and be good for a while.

Before we got so into riding tandems, this same fork on the wifes 99 Super V would need fluid about once per month to keep it legit.

You'll also want to keep an eye on the negative spring because they will fail and trash your air sleeve. Ensure the boot is secure and not torn. Add a small amount of Phil Wood oil to the races and cycle the fork while the cartridge is removed.

Honestly, a small bit of routine upkeep and these forks run a long time.

PK

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cdalemaniac

· #4 · Feb 25, 2011

Adding fluid like once a month or so sounds like a bandaid fix to me....

I agree on the routine maintenance though.
You need more than just the 2 tools you mentioned for a proper overhaul though......castle tool, green pin spanner perhaps, better yet the cartridge top tool as it is less likely to slip and scratch the shaft, bullet tool and the shaft clamp tool as well.
Also, it's always good to keep spare parts on hand as well.
That's why I'd recommend to send it out to be serviced instead.
just my 0.02 anyways.

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MendonCycleSmith

· #5 · Feb 28, 2011

PMK is correct inasmuch that you can do it that way. I wouldn't personally take the time to pull it every so often and top it off though. Just ride it till it gets the loss of lock, then re fill it. Less time wrenching, more time playing :thumbsup:

Sadly, the top cap wrench for the cartridges only works on the modern dampers, the older ones had slightly different pin spacing.

Agreed, be wicked careful, one slip with the pin spanner, and you'll have a leak forever.

It's definitely a possible DIY job if you like tinkering, and have a steady hand. Note that this only deals with the damper, your telescope may have dried out old grease, and the bearings do migrate so you may be short on travel and have top out once it gets deep enough.

Adding to PMK's tool list though, you'd want the Bullet tool, or you'll damage the seals putting the cap back on.

Sounds like a PITA? Well, there's other ways too

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