What replacement zerostack headset are you folks using?
Yeah, standover scares me. I'm looking at the 23" because I'm 6'4 with a 36" inseam. They don't likst the standover so I have no idea what to expect.CommuterBoy said:Here's mine in progress (with custom Specialized stickers), just posted in the 'pics of your 29er' thread:
If you search for 'performance access' there are a couple threads with quite a few pictures. There's one in the 'snowy 29er rides' thread too... I did tons of homework before I ordered mine.
I'm happy with the quality of the frame/welds, and can't wait to get a fork so I can get the thing together! I would prefer a traditional headset, but including a functional one with the frame is a nice touch in my opinion. Nothing wrong with it, it's just not sealed bearing.
Edit: My frame is a 21"...in the smaller sizes, the top tube makes a more direct line towards the rear axle (on the 17" it's almost a straight line), and in the 23 (which is GIANT) the head tube is longer and there's a bigger gap between the top tube and the down tube. In the 17 and 19" sizes, the top tube and down meet at the headtube, and have a beefier weld area where they are connected. The frame gets significantly taller as you move up through the sizes, and some people complain about standover clearance with the bigger sizes. I'm 6"2 and the 21 seems like it's going to be perfect. I ordered a 23 at first and returned it after I laughed about how huge it was.
Thanks for the info. I think I'd prefer the 23" due to the 25.5" TT length. The 21" is just below 25" (according to the chart).CommuterBoy said:My true (floor to bone) inseam is 36". I wear a 34 in a normal pair of jeans. Other posts and measurements put the standover of the 21" in the 30" range. I'd consider the 21, even at your height. The 23" is pretty tall, and you don't gain that much top tube length.
There is a breakdown list of frame dimentions in one of the access threads...
With the Razzo, you might gain an inch of standover...but you're going to pay almost an extra $200 for it.... not worth it in my opinion. I'd make due with the 21" access and a longer stem. Just my two cents.
I just e-mailed him, thanks for the tipCommuterBoy said:On standover, I'm obviously not able to measure mine yet... just going by other people's claims. I'll post up when I get a fork on mine and can get an actual measurement...I'm pretty curious now. People probably measure them right at the seat post, to get the lowest number. Center of the tube is the most accurate...
I can say that on the 17 and 19" frames, the top tube is at a much steeper angle as it slopes towards the rear. On the 21 and 23", it's closer to parallel with the floor.
Edit: There is a dude in this thread (jeffj) with a 23"...maybe he'll measure it for you: http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=529512
Thanks for the #'sjeffj said:Dude here
I just measured mine and at about 12 inches forward from the center of the seat tube, the standover is right at about 35"+/-. It's about 32.5" right where the TT comes away from the seat tube and about 37.8" where the TT meets the HT.
I'm 6'5" and of average proportions (certainly not long legged anyway) and I feel the presence of the top tube when standing over it, but it's not bothersome at all to me.
Hope that helps. Dude out.
Nice!!!mtnbiker72 said:I got a WTB Team on E-bay for $26 shipped...been working great, set and forget.
Otherwise I have used both Cane Creek Z-3 and FSA Orbit Z zerostack headsets in the past on other frame with equal results