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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is simple and I think I know the obvious answer, but want the definitive "yep, it's..." from hayes experts.

My rear 2003 mag slooooowly pulls the lever closer to the grip over the period of 2 weeks. I can't see any leaks and I don't see any split hoses under the rubber thing. Obviously there is a leak, but is it internal like a bladder?
 

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Gravity Rides Everything
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adjust the lever throw screw... it's like a little set-screw looking thing. look from the end of hte lever toward the master cylinder housing, you'll see it. you just tighten it to bring the lever out... it's a common problem with hayes.. I guess threadlock helps, but there's no real solution, other than adjusting it.
 

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endurowanker said:
adjust the lever throw screw... it's like a little set-screw looking thing. look from the end of hte lever toward the master cylinder housing, you'll see it. you just tighten it to bring the lever out... it's a common problem with hayes.. I guess threadlock helps, but there's no real solution, other than adjusting it.
Used to happen to in a matter of one ride. Some strong thread lock and I haven't had a single problem in about 5 months of riding!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
bike_freak said:
Used to happen to in a matter of one ride. Some strong thread lock and I haven't had a single problem in about 5 months of riding!
Wish it was that. My little screw is loc-tited, and has been for a month or so. Any other guesses? Thanks.
 

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My guess is

as the pads wear down, a little air has gone into the system (actually into the master cyclinder from the reservoir). The fix would be to re-bleed the system. As a short term fix carefully push the calliper pistons back in, replace the wheel and squeeze the lever to reset the pistons with the levers in the natural position (ie both wheels flat on the ground).

Cheers
Wayne
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
WOY said:
as the pads wear down, a little air has gone into the system (actually into the master cyclinder from the reservoir). The fix would be to re-bleed the system. As a short term fix carefully push the calliper pistons back in, replace the wheel and squeeze the lever to reset the pistons with the levers in the natural position (ie both wheels flat on the ground).

Cheers
Wayne
This could be the answer, cuz.... my pads are at the very limit of being bald. Guess I need to break (no pun intended) down and buy new pads, rebleed and see what happens.
Thanks to all for the help.
 

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A couple of Hayes questions

danK said:
This could be the answer, cuz.... my pads are at the very limit of being bald. Guess I need to break (no pun intended) down and buy new pads, rebleed and see what happens.
Thanks to all for the help.
I'm having a similar problem with the rear brake. I'm thinking I am going to rebleed it. I had to cut the line and shorten it. I bled it but lately the rear is getting mushy. I use the rear in steep technical switchbacks a lot. When I'm on the rear in these situations, the brake has a different sound to it than normal. It is loud, but no squeal. Also the rear pads have a groove towards the bottom as if the pad material is wearing more in that spot. It looks like the material is deteriorating in that spot. The front looks fine. I'm wondering if they are overheating. I don't know as this is my first set. I have no problems with them in normal conditions where I use both front and rear. It is only on steep technical DH switchbacks, where all the weight is on the rear and I'm on the rear brake only, the sound from the rear brake sounds different.
Come to think of it, my Vs had a different sound in the same situation. Maybe I'm just on the rear too much. I use the front to slow mostly, but in this situation, the front can't be used. Thanks!
 
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