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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok i have a brand new 2008 specialized stumpjumper FSR comp. I did a decent amount of maintenance on my old bike but i just cant figure this out.

So i go to adjust my front derailleur i get the low setting fine. I then move it to the biggest cog on the top and the lowest cog on the rear. When i turn the set screw for "H" it wont move far enough "out" (towards me). But if i grab it and pull it will pull out far enough. to try and better explain if i tighten that screw down and then try and pull i cant pull it out, if i loosen the screw i then can pull it out to where i would like it to be but it falls right back against the chain. :madman: Not sure what i am missing here any help or suggestions?
 

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The "H" set screw is a outward travel limit stop....its there as a positive stop so you don't 'overshift' the chain past the big ring to the point the chain falls off the ring. So this "H" screw does no 'adjusting' of the derailleur, its just a limit stop.

As Leoh stated, it sounds like your inner cable needs more tension so that you get full travel of the front derailleur when you click the shifter.

Park tools repair site has a pretty good front derailleur adjustment how-to:
http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=75
 

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The easiest way to set an index front derailleur, is to place the lever in the center position and use the cable adjuster to trim the derailleur correctly for the center sprocket. from there it should index pretty OK both for the larger sprocket and the granny, but you'll use the upper and lower limit screws for optimum position. Lastly fine tune the shifting with the cable adjuster.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
After reading Parks website guide it would seem i dont have enough tension. So i went back and moved it down to the bottom cog. Then i loosened the cable pulled it as taunt as possible and tightened the bolt back down. STILL no luck it still wont move far enough out..

UGH so frustrating. I will try again from step one tomorrow, just cant seem to get it to work for me...
 

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~Disc~Golf~
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frusterating huh...

Getting the tension right can be a pain!

Did you try the method that FBinNY suggested?? - works pretty good

Here's another way I've also done

-Back your shifter to the lowest gear.
-twist barrel adjuster in (but not all the way - leave some thread negative adjustment)
-while spinning the cranks, turn in the low-level adjustment screw until the chain wants to shift to middle ring - stop.
-Loosen cable clamp, make sure all housings are seated (SIT DOWN HOUSING!!), with a pair of pliers grip and pull the cable taut and tighten cable clamp.
- back out low limit screw and fine tune you indexes with barrel adjuster.
- go out and ride!
 

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Dirt Deviant
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Check the alignment of the cage. 90% of bikes from the factory will have a misaligned front der. If the bike builder isn't experienced, he probably won't notice it.
Use the chainrings as a gauge and see if the cage is inline with them. Usually best to have it in the middle ring to check that, but depends on the type of derailleur.
 

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savagemann said:
Check the alignment of the cage. 90% of bikes from the factory will have a misaligned front der. If the bike builder isn't experienced, he probably won't notice it.
Use the chainrings as a gauge and see if the cage is inline with them. Usually best to have it in the middle ring to check that, but depends on the type of derailleur.
This would be true except in the case of the OP's bike, a 2008 Stumpy FSR Comp which has a DMD (Direct Mount Derailleur). The front derailleur is basically an "E-type" without the BB mount and it bolts onto the frame so there is no rotational ability as with a seatpost clamp type derailleur.
Here's a pic of the Stumpy FSR Pro frame so you can see the mounting:
https://www.specialized.com/OA_MEDIA/2008/bikes/7383-11_l.jpg

Here's mounting details from the Stumpy manual:
https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/MountainDog/StumpyDMD.jpg
 

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Dirt Deviant
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If tension or limit screws will not adjust it, then it is prolly a bent cage. It's actually really easy to bend a cage, but usually doesn't happen. Some front derailleurs are really tricky to setup properly. Usually, you want more slack in the cable than most people would think. The cable shouldn't be taunt when in the low position, it should be able to flop around.
 

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Dirt Deviant
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Just check that the cage runs inline with the chainrings. I doubt its bent, unless you crashed hard on the right side, or something banged into it while it is being stored.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks from help by FBinNy I found what is causing the issue. When I try adjusting with the barrel adjuster it doesn't work properly. When I turn the knob it moves easily at first as if it's working then gets extremely hard to turn. What I found was it wasn't moving at all until it got to the extremely hard part. Anyone know what can cause this?
 

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Some adjusters have lock nuts. Others are more like a screw jack where what looks like the lock nut turns down lifting the barrel (which doesn't turn) out of the body. You might be turning the wrong part, not the adjuster itself until you run out of free travel. Look carefully at what's actually happening and tinker (with the cable slack, or removed) until you figure it out.

If the bike has some miles on it, there may be some corrosion, so run some penetrating oil (Liquid Wrench, or equivalent, buy at hardware store, it's always handy) into the threads, give it a while to work and try again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I will def try the liquid wrench. The bike is brand new but could have been sitting around a while. I know I am turning the right part due to the fact the other barrel adjuster works perfect.
 

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Front Derailleur Adjustment

Getting the tension right can be a pain!

Did you try the method that FBinNY suggested?? - works pretty good

Here's another way I've also done

-Back your shifter to the lowest gear.
-twist barrel adjuster in (but not all the way - leave some thread negative adjustment)
-while spinning the cranks, turn in the low-level adjustment screw until the chain wants to shift to middle ring - stop.
-Loosen cable clamp, make sure all housings are seated (SIT DOWN HOUSING!!), with a pair of pliers grip and pull the cable taut and tighten cable clamp.
- back out low limit screw and fine tune you indexes with barrel adjuster.
- go out and ride!
========================================

Please HELP to verify:
-w/ your 1st step, the cable is clamped [tight, taut] or not clamped?

Thank you VERY much!
 
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