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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Recently my cheap huffy mountain bike was stolen from my yard. Since then I have been researching on a replacement and felt that I found a good one for my budget, which is not to exceed $500. I found this one on bikesdirect.com...
Total Price: $499.
Windsor Cliff29 Comp Mountain Bike with SRAM X5 27 Speeds

For Christmas my wife surprised me with a mountain bike the she purchase at the Sports Authority. It is a K2 Zed 4.4 with these specs...

Price after tax $411.
Frame: 6061 Aluminum
Fork: RockShox Dart 1 (w/ pre load)
Stem: Aheadset VP A42E
Brakes: HB MX4 Disc Brakes
Shifter: Shimano ST-EF50L
Front Derailer: Shimano C050
Rear Derailer: Shimano Altus
Cassette: Shimano CS-HG30-81
Tires: Innova Tires 26" x 2.1"
Saddle: WTB Speed V

The specs on the 29er are as follows...

Frame - Altair 2 custom butted aluminum with PowerSection down tube, top tube/seat tube gusset, Hydro-formed top and down tube, Integrated head tube, double water bottle mounts. Rear triangle is Altair 2, custom tapered 7005 aluminum with Edge S-bend MonoStay, Cold forged dropout with CNC'D disc mount and replaceable hanger
Fork - NEW Rock Shox Dart 3 29" w/Turn Key LockOut and 80mm Travel
Crankset - TruVativ 5D 3.0, 22/32/44T
Bottom Bracket - Sealed Cartridge Bearing ST
Pedals - Wellgo ATB w/steel cage, toe clips and straps
Front Derailleur - SRAM X.5, 34.9mm
Rear Derailleur - SRAM X.5
Shifters - SRAM X.5 Trigger, 27-speed
Cassette/Freewheel - Sunrace CSM969-AVOS, 11-32T 9-speed
Chain - KMC HG-73
Hubs - Gravity Sealed Bearing Disc, 32H
Spokes - 32 Stainless Steel 14 gauge
Rims - WTB SpeedDisc AM 29" DW, 32H
Tires - Maxxis Ignitor OR Kenda Nevegal (NO Choice) 29 inch
Brakes - Avid BB-5 Mechanical Disc w/Center Adjust, 160mm rotor
Brake Levers - Avid FR-5 Forged Alloy 2 finger
Headset - V.P. A-42E 1 1/8" Press Fit Integrated, 30mm spacers
Handlebar - Windsor Pro Riser 15mm Aluminum 31.8mm
Stem - Windsor 3D Forged Al 1 1/8"
Tape/Grip - Dual Density Kraton rubber
Saddle - WTB Speed V Comp
Seat Post - Micro Adjust, 350mm x 31.6mm
Seat Clamp - Superlite Alloy, 34.9mm Laser Etched

I don't know much about these parts, but I am getting the feeling that the 29er is a big upgrade from the one my wife purchased for me. The cost difference is only $88, so the price difference is not to great. And they assured her that we can return the bike.

What the consensus out there. Should I keep the K2 or go with the 29er?
 

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Well the components on the 29er are much better for the small price increase. Plus there's that whole "29er" thing too.

It also depends on what you plan to do with the bike. If you're just cruising around town and not doing many trails, the K2 is a good bike. Plus, I'm assuming that the K2 has some sort of service plan included with purchase, which is quite valuable if you aren't handy with tools.

If it were me, I'd go with the 29er.
 

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I would also go with the 29er, bikes from Bikes Direct (Motobecane/Windsor/etc.) are a great deal, especially at the lower end of the price spectrum. Hopefully the wife is fine with the swap, that's the biggest risk I see here. :)
 

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G'day Kandr,

Firstly we neeed to establish something of which we can all be certain.

The 29er forum is the sole custodian of all mountain biking truth. It's a place where people can ask questions about this superlative pass time of ours, safe in the knowledge that the answers they recieve are free from the taint of error and corruption so often seen in places where people are actually still discussing the use of 26" wheels as if they had merit.

So when everyone in the 29er forum suggests you go with the 29er, you sure can believe it, becuse we are all foridden to say anything which is tantamout to spreading error. Lest we be cast in to the exterior darkness of all the other forums.

Pics or it didn't happen man. Don't forget.
 

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Wow!

MagicCarpet said:
G'day Kandr,

Firstly we neeed to establish something of which we can all be certain.

The 29er forum is the sole custodian of all mountain biking truth. It's a place where people can ask questions about this superlative pass time of ours, safe in the knowledge that the answers they recieve are free from the taint of error and corruption so often seen in places where people are actually still discussing the use of 26" wheels as if they had merit.

So when everyone in the 29er forum suggests you go with the 29er, you sure can believe it, becuse we are all foridden to say anything which is tantamout to spreading error. Lest we be cast in to the exterior darkness of all the other forums.

Pics or it didn't happen man. Don't forget.
How do you agrue with that? You can't.............CF.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I went ahead and ordered the 29er. I did have my heart set on a 29er and was almost loosing sleep over this. I am pretty new to riding, but want something that wont give me regrets in a month.

The one thing that I was a little confused about in the specs is that the rear triangle apears to be made of 7005 aluminum, and from reasearching this, I see that this is the type used on cheaper bike frames. But there is no mention on what the rest of the frame is made out of. I suspect that they use this aluminum in the rear because it is stiffer. Does that sound right?

BantamSLK, my wife says that you are very wise. I think she is a little hurt, but is trying not to show it. I'm supposed to say that she is very supportive and some other stuff, but I forgot what she told me to write. Now she is asking me if I am almost done on the computer. But that's for another forum. :madman:
 

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Hello again - RE 7005 aluminium.

It is used on frames of all levels. It is stiffer than steel, but cheaper, so it is very common, particularly on mass produced bikes because of it's low weight.

Front suspended, rigid rear (hard tail) MTBs are where probably >90% of riders kick off. If you drew a line between groupsest that are recreational and elite, the X5, pitched against Shimano Deore would be above the line.

For what it's worth, I rode an LX equipped 26" MTB hard tail for nine years changing only the fork after a year. I wanted a 29er for about four years before I bought one because the old bike wouldn't die. It still won't, but as I am 40 years old and the long rides were starting to jar my shins and lower back muscles, I moved up.

Your bike will be worth more to you to keep than it is to sell for a long time. You did well. Now you need to consult the forum as to the best way of convincing the wife you need a $3000 dually. A few years of good solid research and preparation for that big moment will be well spent.

As for being "done on the computer". You've stumbled upon the deposit of all MTB truth, remember. So you'll never be done on the computer.

See you when you get back (with the pics).
 

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I say stick with the gift your wife got you and ride that for a while (buy a lock/cable so it doesn't get jacked too). Figure out what you want, save more $$ and when ready, buy what you want, not what you can afford.

Net result:
1- you're not PO'ing the wife by dumping her gift
2- you're not settling - it'll mean more when you work/save to get what you really want.
 

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OH this thread is laden with so many un-asked questions. This guy is coming off of a Huffy for goodness sake! He is ordering a bike from a web site and comparing it with a bike purchased by his wife from Sports Authority. Never once was there a mention of a test ride, bike fitting, or the intended use of said bike. This could go terribly wrong for the OP if his internet bike arrives and he discovers that the frame is too large for him. But then again, he may not realize it until he has had the bike for many months because he has become accustomed to riding bikes that are too large (see Huffy).

So, to the OP, I pose the following questions.

How tall are you?
What is your cycling inseam (measure from the floor to your crotch w/out shoes on)?
What size frame did you order from BD?
How much do you weigh? (Only answer that if your want to.)
What type of riding do you plan on doing?
Did you check out the offerings at your local Bike Shop (LBS) before going to the internet option?
Did you leave your Huffy in the front yard for the sole purpose of getting boosted so you would have an excuse to get a new bike?

Yes, the BD bike has better parts on it than the Sports Authority bike. No, for $500, you are not getting top of line anything. Yes, the 7005 aluminum frame will be plenty strong and stiff.

To the OP, I hope that this bike works for you and you get many happy years of riding from it. But, as someone who did purchase a bike in a size too large many years ago when making the switch from Huffy to a quality bike, I also know that it is possible to make some real mistakes. I ended up buying another bike in less than a year as I learned that the one I was riding was actually too large for me. While not the end of the world, still a $500 mistake that I could have avoided had I gone to my LBS for that 1st bike purchase.
 

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Careful

I just bought the Cliff 29er. It arrived with a damaged shifter. I send Bikes Direct a request for a replacement part with an image of the shifter. The folks at Bikes Direct are now asking me to send them more pictures "so they can better assist me." I'll let you know how this goes, but it seems that I will have more work to do to get them to provide a new part and may have a mechanic's bill as well for the fix.
 

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I think you had better trade that bike your wife bought for you, for a bike for your wife along with a dozen roses! You know the story of the scorned wife don't you!
 

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7005 Aluminium is a number and makes no reference to how the metal is drawn or used. Yes cheap bikes can be made in thick heavy 7005 but take for instance Kona who use thin walled 7005 for their light race frames, only upgrade being to their even lighter scandium frames.

I ride one of these 7005 Kona frames and it is light but it is stiff and quick.

Forget the numbers, it's about the quality of the build.
 
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