[Joe Steel]

I know this is kind of backwards, but that's the way it's working out.

I recently picked up an old Bontrager 'composite' rigid fork -- the legs are not quite as sexy as the 'bonded composite,' but still has the straight blades and sexy crown (although a bit rough).

About the fork:

1" threaded steer, 6" long
Non suspension corrected

Anyway...now I want to build a bike around the fork and I need a frame.

What I would like in a frame:
Old school steel
18" frame size (give or take)
1" head tube (that will work with a 6" steerer)
Non suspension corrected geometry

Here's where I need your help:
1) How can I tell if a frame is suspension corrected or not?
2) What year can I assume all frames are suspension corrected and therefore eliminated from review?
3) Are most frame manufacture dates easy to determine (i.e., s/n listed on websites)
4) What would be a good frame to look for (e.g., Bonty pre what year?, Yo Eddy, etc.)

Thanks!
Joe

 

[laffeaux]

Here's where I need your help:
1) How can I tell if a frame is suspension corrected or not?
2) What year can I assume all frames are suspension corrected and therefore eliminated from review?
3) Are most frame manufacture dates easy to determine (i.e., s/n listed on websites)
4) What would be a good frame to look for (e.g., Bonty pre what year?, Yo Eddy, etc.)

Hmmm... that is a bit backwards, but if that's how you want to do it...

Since it's a Bonty fork, I'd go with a Bonty frame (but I am biased). Bontragers had 4.2" headtubes (size S to XL) so the 6" steerer should work fine. There was a suspended and unsuspended model in the early '90s. The suspended had a steeper seat tube and shorter top tube, but I don't know if the headtube length changed. I have a Race built up as a SS with a rigid fork, and don't know if it's corrected or not, but it rides well.

Dates can be difficult to determine. Some manufacturers include it and some do not. Bonty serial numbers mean absolutely nothing and appear to be random. Older Bontys do have two piece rear seat stays and newer ones have one piece, plus older ones use bottom pull deraillers and newer ones top pull, but otherwise the frames are the same.

To be on the safe side, I'd say any '80s frame is fine, and most pre '94 or '95 frames are fine. Even a 50mm or 63mm fork is not a huge difference from a rigid fork. Look at a Bridgestone catalog and you'll see that they sold the exact frames in both suspended and unsuspended forms. The angles change, but the ride is not all that affected. Once the fork compresses, the angles are going to steepen anyway - if you're on a bumpy downhill, a fork compressed 1/2 way or more will likely have steeper angles than a rigid bike with the "wrong" fork.

 

[DeeEight]

Let's see, brands in steel with 1" headtubes and a general lack of thinking about suspension correction....Univega, Ritchey, and Slingshot come instantly to mind. Rocky Mountains from 1989 or earlier and Kona's around 91 or earlier.

Hmmmm, maybe I'll put my BigOneInch fork back on my 88 RM Thunderbolt and sell the 1" steerer Manitou 2 that's on it now. But gawd I don't wanna take apart that JPR Alloy headset or 64 little 1/16th inch bearings are gonna spill everywhere, i just know it.

 

[Manicmtbr]

Specialized S Works

I have a Specialized S Works Tange Prestige tubed bike with a 1 inch head tube. Mine is a '93, but another guy I know has a '95 and it still has the 1 inch head tube. Definately not suspension specific. It even has the rigid fork that came with the frame and it is short.

Real short TT in comparison to what we ride today though . . . . . . . . .

 

[halfinch]

greetings
i have an older khs, true temper steel frame. it's superlight, needs a one inch steerer and i believe it's either a 18" or 19" frame. yours for shipping plus twenty. Lemme know if you'd like a pic or two.