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Fueled by Tigerblood
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Official ***** Idiot
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Mmm.......organic pad only (love the fact they say NO OLD AVID'S despite the fact I've had organic pads for years......), XC only, so no downhilling on those, you can only use Kool Stop pads, a lot of "space age" and "mil spec" in the description........I guess if you want to be a guinea pig, live in an area where hills aren't a concern, and really really want to save a few grams, go for it.
 

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Official ***** Idiot
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If you're counting grams for XC racing, skip lighter, less reliable rotors and get lighter rims. Rotational weight matters a LOT more than center weight. If you wanted to save weight over stock Avid rotors, get Hope instead, with the aluminum spider and steel braking surface. 89g, give or take, and can use any pad compound. Should work fine with the Avids.
 

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I bought a pair of those last summer. I put them on my DT Swiss XRC 1250 racing wheel set clamped between my new Magura Marta SL MAG brakes pads. They looked so sweet.

Within minutes of my first "training" race they Squealed like a banshee to the point of me pulling out of the race. They didn't warp but they were ground down and looking quite torn up. Didn't know about "organic" vs "non-organic" pads.

I still have them as a reminder.

Now, I use the original rotors from my magura system. I'm a weight weenie, but not with rotors!
 

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i used to use the mtn cycle pro stop brakes, they were aluminum rotors and they were ok ,as far as surface wear goes,they were hardcoated like fork legs. Those rotors were very large and thick though.+1 to the xc flatter type trails usage being ok for these.
 

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Official ***** Idiot
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That and if you have the slightest concern over looks.......that fancy red anodizing you're paying extra for is going to be gone in a half-dozen good rides. Wears off under both tension and heat. My current motherboard has some nifty heatsinks on the northbridge and power regulation chips, and the gold finish is faded where the most heat hits.......and these aren't even particularly hot chips.
 

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I'm surprized it's just regular red anodizing, hard coating (like forklegs) isn't all that expensive, it's just not red.It's that greyish color that all forklegs are, there are different shades some more goldish some grey ,some darker gray . Years ago i made a set of forklegs to extend my hanebrink forks, i had them hardcoated at a local industrial place,not much money i did a few sets just because there was a minimum charge and i bought a full length of the tubing. Anyway, the coating thats darker grey is better and it would probabely last pretty good for xc rotors, i think its what mavic calls ceramic coating on their better rims,also a brake surface. I used a pair of extra fork legs on my rollers when i made them into floating rollers.
 

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Official ***** Idiot
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Nah, Mavic's ceramic coating is just that.........hard ceramic coating. Gives the rim more wear resistance, among other things.

Hard anodizing, like you're talking about, is slippery, along with the wear resistance factor. Great for parts that need to slide against other parts frequently, but not so good for parts that you DON'T want to slide against other parts......like brake pads on a rotor. You'll never see a hard anodized brake rotor on any vehicle, including $2 billion F-15's.
 

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I tried these discs out on my commuter 1st. Not game to try them offroad. Squealed terribly and no braking power. Figured that would improve after a few rides. Nup.

Tried sanding off the coating and made a slight improvement but still howls and down on power. They are in the bin.

I would avoid these at all costs.

p.s I was using organic pads as recommended.
 
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