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I have the Nixon Elite with rapid travel wind down and need to take it apart to get a stiffer spring in there but I'm not sure how to get it apart.There's a 28mm hex head on top of the left leg that I'm not sure if t needs to come off for disassembly.

I tried to download the tech manual from Manitou's site but its not working.

Any help out there?
 

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I haven't taken one apart but I did download the manual. There is however something wrong with the PDF file. The whole thing downloads and then takes ages to change pages. I think I solved it by making a copy on my computer and then opening it from that folder. If you don't get it right, maybe call them and ask them to send you a hard copy.

Ronnie.
 

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I followed the service manual, and took apart my Nixon Platinum...it is really easy.
Just leaved all the air off the chambers, and in the downside I disassembled the rebound knob, the allen behind it (clockwise) and the nut over the air valve
Then the outer castings are taken apart.
I did it to replace the Q-rings of the IT, and modify the travel spacers (cutting), and now I have 142mm real travel, and still enough space wheel-crown

But for the spring versions maybe you only have to access from the upside…
 

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Tree said:
I have the Nixon Elite with rapid travel wind down and need to take it apart to get a stiffer spring in there but I'm not sure how to get it apart.There's a 28mm hex head on top of the left leg
I'm trying to do the same thing but my Craftsman 28mm socket will not fit inside the top of the leg to get around the bolt. Three quarters of the bolt is surrounded by the top of the fork so it seems that a very thin walled socket would be needed to do this.

Does anyone know what brand of socket will work on that bolt?
 

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www.derbyrims.com
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dcb said:
I'm trying to do the same thing but my Craftsman 28mm socket will not fit inside the top of the leg to get around the bolt. Three quarters of the bolt is surrounded by the top of the fork so it seems that a very thin walled socket would be needed to do this.

Does anyone know what brand of socket will work on that bolt?
I called Manitou about that today and they can supply the socket through your fork dealer. It does require a thin-wall 28 according to the tech guy there.

I just bought the same fork.

- ray
 

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OGC was kind enough to send us a modified 28 mm, for free, so we can work on the fork. Maybe you'll get lucky getting one! :D
Why Manitou does this is beyond me - couldn't just make a normal top cap like everyone else? (excluding the 06 66 fork that is)
 

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MattSavage
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cort said:
OGC was kind enough to send us a modified 28 mm, for free, so we can work on the fork. Maybe you'll get lucky getting one! :D
Why Manitou does this is beyond me - couldn't just make a normal top cap like everyone else? (excluding the 06 66 fork that is)
Marzocchi is just as bad. You need a modified socket to get into the bottom nuts on some of their forks.

So far the Nixon is the only manitou fork that appears to have this problem.

Bummer...
 

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I bought a 28mm socket and turned down the outside on my lathe. Just make sure you get a 6 point socket.

You need to undo the bottom bolt on the spring side as well. Manitou changed their method for holding the system together. Initially there was a plastic washer in some forks holding the spring to the compression rod. This means you have to draw the comrpession rod up through the top of the stanchion with the spring.

In the later models, there is no plastic washer and the compression rod can stay put.
 

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"El Whatever"
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mattsavage said:
Marzocchi is just as bad. You need a modified socket to get into the bottom nuts on some of their forks.

So far the Nixon is the only manitou fork that appears to have this problem.

Bummer...
Honorable mention for the Fox 26mm chamferless socket needed on their '05 and later forks and the 12mm cone wrench needed for opening the damping cartridge.
 

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STS said:
I followed the service manual, and took apart my Nixon Platinum...it is really easy.
Just leaved all the air off the chambers, and in the downside I disassembled the rebound knob, the allen behind it (clockwise) and the nut over the air valve
Then the outer castings are taken apart.
I did it to replace the Q-rings of the IT, and modify the travel spacers (cutting), and now I have 142mm real travel, and still enough space wheel-crown

But for the spring versions maybe you only have to access from the upside?
You can remove the spacers it will only free up more travel, as long as you are not running huge tyres.
 

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05 Minute 1 also needs special socket

I went out and bought a 28mm socket.Did not fit. No problem, I just used channel lock pliers. It puts indentations in the primo plastic cap but the wind down dial covers it. An adjustable wrench will also work. Just remember, these Manitou plastic top caps do not have to be very tight - just snug. You can get it tighter than it needs to be with just a 1/4" drive rachet.

Warp2003 said:
Honorable mention for the Fox 26mm chamferless socket needed on their '05 and later forks and the 12mm cone wrench needed for opening the damping cartridge.
 

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Buy a regular single, cheapo, 6 pt, 28mm socket...

at your hardware store (or order it off the internet). Then grind away using an old fashioned bench grinder. Took me about 5 min for the socket I needed for my Zoke.

Mike
 

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www.derbyrims.com
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Anyone sourse the special Nixon socket yet?

Does anyone have an order part number and retail sourse for a Nixon spring side socket they know fits?

I don't have a bench grinder. I could pay someone I guess. Now it's getting expensive.

IThis weekend I finally tried to find a thin wall 6 point 28mm. Napa doesn't list them even for special order. Local Manitou dealers don't have it and my dealer JensenUSA cannot order it from there bulk suppliers. Sears doesn even carry a 28mm socket or wrench. I tried 5 or 6 auto and bike parts stores. Google didn't find one either.

Guess I'll call Manitou next week again and order their special tool direct. What a stupid design.

- ray
 

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Is it good to modify existing set up if Im getting full travel???

Prof said:
You can remove the spacers it will only free up more travel, as long as you are not running huge tyres.
I checked travel and Ive got 143mm travel. There is a a sticker says clearance kit has been installed. How is your spv going. I just paid to have mine replaced on my 5 month old nixon plat. The service guy claimed that my oil was so dirty it made it stick. THATS BULL!!! In the manual it says to service spv part of the fork once a year. Well thats my rant for today.
 

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Keep on Rockin...
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This sort of thing is the exact reason...

derby said:
Does anyone have an order part number and retail sourse for a Nixon spring side socket they know fits?

I don't have a bench grinder. I could pay someone I guess. Now it's getting expensive.

IThis weekend I finally tried to find a thin wall 6 point 28mm. Napa doesn't list them even for special order. Local Manitou dealers don't have it and my dealer JensenUSA cannot order it from there bulk suppliers. Sears doesn even carry a 28mm socket or wrench. I tried 5 or 6 auto and bike parts stores. Google didn't find one either.

Guess I'll call Manitou next week again and order their special tool direct. What a stupid design.

- ray
I'm weeding my stable of FS gearies. Bike maintenance burn out. I got so tired of fiddling with parts and nonsence like this. More time was spent working on bikes than riding them.

Mike
 

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My SPV valve lasted 6 month's before it started to clunk; the replacement was a later version that should be more reliable.
I get a full 145mm travel out of my fork now and it ramps up nicely at the end of its stroke, the spacer's on mine interfered with this, before they were removed.
My travel upgrade was one of the early version's that limited the travel to 137mm, sounds like the upgrade on yours is better executed.
 
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