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Who is the Drizzle?
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Ever since I got my bike last year, I have had problems with the front brake rubbing. I had the wheels trued and at the time the guy at the bike shop said not to worry about it and that it might go away after some time. Being that I only had it for a little while, I figured he was right, but it never went away. There is a constant rubbing, sometimes it is light other times it is quite heavy. In a recent issue of Mountain Bike Action, they had a special on fixing brake rubbing. I tried almost every little fix they had to no avail. In the article they stated that chipped paint, dirt, or dents in the dropout could off set the balance of the wheel and the brake would then rub. I checked the dropout, and it is pretty bad looking. The paint is scraped and chipped off, it looks like the dropout is dented slightly also.
I have only taken the front wheel off a couple times, and each time I made sure the wheel was seated properly, so I'm pretty sure I didn't cause the damage. Should I contact Haro about this problem? Is there a warranty issue for this type of thing?
 

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Truing your wheels on a disc-brake bike isn't going to help you much.

Have you taken the bike to your local shop? When your rotors rub on your calipers, it's generally an easy fix unless of course you bent something.

If your drop-out is bent, it didn't just bend itself...it likely means you hit something pretty hard, We don't actually take care of warranty issues on the forks we spec...each fork manufacturer takes care of that so they can use the info they get for R & D purposes.

I'd recommend taking the bike to your LBS and have them take a look at your bike.
 

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Who is the Drizzle?
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51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
OK. I've actually never hit anything riding and I never rest the bike on the side the brakes are on, so I don't think I bent the rotor or the dropout. As for the truing of the wheel, I know it won't do much for the brake, but at the time, when I called my LBS the guy said that it would help. Thankyou for the info.:thumbsup:
 

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ride hard take risks
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25,423 Posts
Your fork wear looks normal. The MX3 is a budget mechanical disc brake designed to meet a price point. Hayes has good instructions on caliper set up for the MX3. Loosen the QR with the bikes wheels on the ground giving a slight push down on the steer stem to make sure the wheel is centered and snug the QR back up. Loosen the caliper bolts just enough so the caliper is free, about 1.5 turns out on the bolts. You should be able to move the caliper by hand with little effort, grab the brake to center caliper, then release and rotate the wheel and grab the brake lever again and hold it so the brake is locked up. Carefully snug the caliper bolts down going one to the other till tight, you dont want to tighten one at a time the caliper can shift. Release the lever and spin the wheel checking it is not dragging. Adjust the inside pad so to the rotor so you can get a .015 feeler gauge between pad and rotor, if you dont have a feeler gauge available a business card is close not a credit card. On the Hayes instructions you are performing 11-14. :thumbsup:

http://www.hayesdiscbrake.com/pdf/MX2MechDiscInstall4LanguageEnglishWeb.pdf

The stock QR's are decent but may be causing flex a Shimano XT is much better if you can find a used one, they are expensive but work great. :cool:
 

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Who is the Drizzle?
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51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Great thanks. I thought the wear might be normal but I wasn't sure. I'll definitely work on the brakes to see if I can fix them, and I'll also look to get better ones in the future:thumbsup: .
 

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ride hard take risks
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FreeRideHaro said:
Great thanks. I thought the wear might be normal but I wasn't sure. I'll definitely work on the brakes to see if I can fix them, and I'll also look to get better ones in the future:thumbsup: .
Spadout is a great place to price search, when you decide to upgrade check out the Hayes Stroker Ryde awesome hydros for the price. :rockon:

http://www.spadout.com/c/mountain-biking/
 
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