[DakotaJockey]

More out of curiosity than neccessity (along with a great price on Ebay) I have a near-new set of Hayes HFX-9 Carbons on their way to me. I have read so much bad and good about this brake set, that I am left wondering if a lot of "problems" are due to incorrect setup. I am mechanically adept and kinda looking forward to seeing how reliable I can make these.
I know about the piston sticking/dominant piston issue
I know about the lever adjuster backing out issue

Let's assume that I want to trim the hoses to fit my NRS perfectly.
Let's assume I want to bleed them after dismantling them to inspect piston fit/lubricity

What tools/parts will I need for the bleeding, refitting of hoses, etc.?
What brake pads are the best?
If aftermarket line is needed, what should I buy?

I fully expect only SATISFIED HFX-9 owners to reply. Riders that have worked THROUGH the "issues" and have arrived at a place where they are happy with their brakes. These are the folks I want to hear from. I understand that on these forums mostly complaints are heard.

Maybe this can lead into a "How to make your HFX-9's work well" thread.

Thanks is advance.

 

[slowrider]

Trouble free

I've run allmost exclusivlely Hayes brakes because I have had no issues with the 4 sets I've owned. Other than bent rotors they run drag free for 2 or 3 years before the pistons become sticky and fail to fully retract; time for service. I've also had no personal problems with the lever reach adjustment although I've known a few people who have. Bleeding; get the kit and follow the instructions to bleed to the lever. The only time I've had to bleed mine is when I changed to Googridge hoses. The two things I don't like about them is the DOT fluid peeling the finish from the caliper and the rattly levers. Very powerful and I have never had a problem with modulation. I hope you enjoy them.

 

[SLX]

I have the Hayes hfx 9 HD and they work fine 8" in the front. No complaints, heart stopping power. Your carbon levers will give you a quicker braking feel, compared to my black painted levers. I prefer to shim both sides of the rotor with equal amounts of paper and then use the squeeze method to set the brakes straight. I had rotor rubbing but that was from my front rim being obscenely untrue (1/2 inch wobble) on a qr, as well as normal hub bearing wear ( just tighten the hub up a little). I used to be afraid that I cant slow down in constant 35 degree descents (smooth dirt single trail) but now its not a problem; although the rotor gets so hot it will evaporate snow. Your satisfaction will be greater with a high end fork that tracks the ground well since if your wheels aren’t on the ground there isn’t any braking power; I went from a low end Manitou Axel to a Fox Talas RLC.

You have done the Googridge hoses slowrider, !? Were do you get them? Any noticeable difference between regular and the Googridge? I need to trim my lines and thought I should just upgrade it at the same time. And do regular SS Shimano lines work? They say they are for mineral oil.

 

[Schultz29]

I have had used about every incarnation of Hayes hydraulic brakes over the past 5-6 years. Some of the earlier models required a lot of adjusting to keep them from dragging but the past HFX models have been completely reliable. The modulation is excellent and I have never experienced a failure in many, many miles of riding. I did use the Goodridge brake lines on a set and noticed a slight increase in power and a little better modulation. The Hayes aren't as a high end or sexy looking than some brake systems but they are probably the best performing brakes I have used to date. However, I recently bought a bike with Avid BB7 mechanicals and I have been surprisingly please with them. I also just bought a bike with Avid Juicy 7's and I've heard nothing but bad comments about them Only time will tell.

 

[slowrider]

Goodrich?

I have the Hayes hfx 9 HD and they work fine 8" in the front. No complaints, heart stopping power. Your carbon levers will give you a quicker braking feel, compared to my black painted levers. I prefer to shim both sides of the rotor with equal amounts of paper and then use the squeeze method to set the brakes straight. I had rotor rubbing but that was from my front rim being obscenely untrue (1/2 inch wobble) on a qr, as well as normal hub bearing wear ( just tighten the hub up a little). I used to be afraid that I cant slow down in constant 35 degree descents (smooth dirt single trail) but now its not a problem; although the rotor gets so hot it will evaporate snow. Your satisfaction will be greater with a high end fork that tracks the ground well since if your wheels aren't on the ground there isn't any braking power; I went from a low end Manitou Axel to a Fox Talas RLC.

You have done the Googridge hoses slowrider, !? Were do you get them? Any noticeable difference between regular and the Googridge? I need to trim my lines and thought I should just upgrade it at the same time. And do regular SS Shimano lines work? They say they are for mineral oil.

I didn't notice any real difference between stock brake line and Goodrich lines but they do look nice. I don't think I'd do it again unless I was allready replacing my lines.

 

[SLX]

I didn't notice any real difference between stock brake line and Goodrich lines but they do look nice. I don't think I'd do it again unless I was allready replacing my lines.

Sweet thanks for the info, looks like I wont be going for the upgrade. Although the silver lines are very nice looking.

 

[DakotaJockey]

So far so good.The Brakes went on with little fanfare. The line length is a tad long (maybe an inch or two at most) but doesn't look funky or anything. I had some difficulty getting the pistons reset and centering the calipers, but I expected that based upon what I read about the HFX9. Went for a 16 mile ride last night and no weird changes (read;rubbing) after heavy use.
I LOVE the feel of hydro compared to my BB7s. MUCH easier to regulate HARD braking while not taking it over the edge towards lockup....especially with the rear brake. It was in the low 20 degree range last night, and it felt like the lever feel was a bit sluggish. Could this be the fluid thickening? I wouldn't think so...