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check your bar width too. Wider bars give you more leverage to control the front when it gets rough. Something over 720mm. What is your current bar width?
 

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check your bar width too. Wider bars give you more leverage to control the front when it gets rough. Something over 720mm. What is your current bar width?
The control or lack of control with bar width doesn't really have a lot to do with strength. It is degrees of turn on the bar versus degrees of turn on the wheel. So with very short bars, at high speeds, it takes very little movement of the bars to potentially throw you off course. Any of the jolts from ruts, rocks, roots, can send you flying. The wider lets you have a bigger tolerance of the jitters before it actually effects the trajectory of your front tire. (Honestly I prefer shorter bars as it makes it more nimble. Trails in my area are generally WAY too narrow for high speed riding. Lots of narrow tree gaps, tons of switch backs, lots of climbing, etc. I actually had to chop my 720mm bars down to 675 just to clear some of the tree gaps.)

The issue I see more is with your body position or riding techniques. Its like when you see someone climbing and they are white knuckled pulling really hard up on the bike. Could be mashing the hell out of the pedals and are using the pressure from their hands to pull themselves into the pedals. Even pulling a wheelie, lifting up hard on the bars? Sure that can work, but isn't the proper way to do it.

Your arms should be primarily used for steering, side to side support, and a little bit of frontal shock absorption. Your legs and core should be doing a vast majority of the work. If your arms/hands are sore, need to start checking your form. (Except for maybe your first day or two getting used to the different muscle groups.)
 

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Check:
*bar width
*bar position
*stem length
*seat position
*seat angle
*brake angle/position
*grip type
*glove type

It's a hornets nest for sure!

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#1 resolution... Ride it like I stole it!!
 

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You may be like me...carpal tunnel. Finally got myself checked and it was confirmed, both wrists. My motorcycle makes my hands go numb almost immediately. My MTB it happens when I don't move around a lot, like on flat single-track. I will be waiting for winter before I get my surgery, don't want to miss the summer riding.
Also suffer from CTS on both wrists and my hands go numb quickly. Have tried upright position, thick grips, padded gloves and saddle nose up and still go numb.

Was diagnosed about 15 years ago and was told to stop ridding, kept on ridding and now seems that I'm paying the price.
 

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Check:
*bar width
*bar position
*stem length
*seat position
*seat angle
*brake angle/position
*grip type
*glove type

It's a hornets nest for sure!

-----------------------------------------------------------
#1 resolution... Ride it like I stole it!!
Also, if your bike is black or silver, it is more likely to cause numb hands. Red is the only non-numb color.
 

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I get hand-numbness a lot too.
Along with some of the many other suggestions, I've found things that help me include:
1) Shifting my backpack- I think the straps impede blood flow to the hands at/around the shoulders- but it could just be that when I adjust them, I give my arms a chance to relax...
2) Loosening my grip(!) make a strong thumb/forefinger circle, but focus on reacting to the bar movement as opposed to locking out the whole hand/wrist/arm. For that, tho you gotta <<Trust your feelings>>
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Bar is 700. Was 740 but just couldn't get used to it. Felt too wide. I have short arms like a T Rex.

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk
 

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I had it once when I first got my AM bike... 740mm bars (I have Gorilla armis) it went away once I got 785mm's on deck.

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#1 resolution... Ride it like I stole it!!
 

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3rd yr medical student here, above poster sounds correct in that its carpal tunnel syndrome. Theres a bundle of nerves vessels that go through a small "tunnel" on the palm side of your hand. When you make the tunnel smaller (like when your wrist is cranked bank on the bike) it narrows the tunnel, compresses the nerve, and creates your symptoms. Your case sounds mild and can be helped by stretching the ligament that makes that tunnel too narrow. Search for stretches that can be done. Good luck!
 

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I tried different bars (including alt bars) and stem lengths to stop shooting pain in one hand. I finally fixed it by dropping the front of the saddle.

Tim
 

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Bar is 700. Was 740 but just couldn't get used to it. Felt too wide. I have short arms like a T Rex.
What's the stem length? Wide bars do not feel good with longer stems.

As well as making the front feel more stable so you're not fighting it as much a shorter stem will also shift your weight back which might help as well. The steering should feel solid enough that holding the bars lightly is all you ever need to do. I get numb hands but never when riding off road.
 
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