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Discussion Starter #1
Hi: I'm in the process of gathering up parts for my first Pug. I'm interested in opinions on handlebars and pedals. I'll be using the bike for adventure travel and the occasional mid-distance 75-100 endurance race. I've actually thought of using some type of platform with Power Straps or toe clips, so I can wear larger foot wear to keep my feet warm. Thanks for the help!
 

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bored ex-shop rat
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375 Posts
I prefer a Titec H-Bar and platform pedals on my pugs.
I tried a riser, a Mary Bar and the H-Bar but the H-Bar is
the most versatile and comfy bar I ever used, sure it looks goofy and odd :thumbsup: but who cares
I used different clipless pedals over the years, but today I stick to plattform
pedals they offer the most freedom and comfort for my big feet and free choice of footware,
from Teva sandals to Crocs or simple sneakers or
trekking boots everything works.

That's just my opinion :D
 

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is buachail foighneach me
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6,589 Posts
if you have size 11 or smaller feet, get lake winter shoes 4 sizes too big and put a pac boot liner in them. best way to go clipless in really cold climates where long walks in snow might be involved. otherwise go platforms.
 

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short timer
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I use platforms and clipless depending on where I'm riding- thanks for the tip on the Lake Winter shoe Sean !
 

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A Surly Maverick
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2,698 Posts
1+ on H bars (Titec version).

Also very good with Ergon grips :)

I just use the large DH Kona pedals that came with my Pug. I find I prefer the wider pedal stance the long BB and these pedals give compared to all my other bike setups.

Dr FG
 

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bars & peddles

I'm currently using a wide,slight rise bar (it was on sale), kinda racy... maybe not the best choice for a long trek but awsome for general adventure riding. For peddles I'm using azonic A- frames with toe clips...yes, toe clips! I cut the regular mounting flanges off the "clips" mounted them to the platforms using the existing threaded holes from the grip pegs. I used old derailuer adjustment bolts (same threads) to secure them. Most D.H./S.L. plat-forms are long enough that it makes up for the loss of length on the clip from cutting the flange off. the trick is to shop around for the right toe clip that has the right structure ( they'er not expensive...might have to try a few pair to get the right ones). I've also done this with a pair of KORE's and most recently with a pair of Kona WAH WAH's. I was able to drill through the top of the KORE's and use screws with nuts but the wah wah's gave me trouble... finaly had to drill them and use sheet metal screws. Anyhow, I LOVE big platforms w/ toe-clips!! total peddle freedom - from light hikers to mtb adventure shoes to sandals at the beach - clips tight; clips lose or tied up &upside down for the tricky or dangerous stuff . In fact, the wah wah's are thin enough that I use them for commuting on my cyclocross bike - I can stop off at a pub and not be stuck in "cleated" shoes! love it! I'll try to remember to post some close-ups of my peddle projects.

good luck with the project

-Ward
 

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Harrumph
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If you are going to be in real cold, I give carbon bars a big recommendation. It honestly helps with keeping your hands warm. Think about how big a heat sink a metal handlebar is moving through below zero air and it makes sense. I personally go with Salsa's 17 degree sweep carbon bar with Ergon grips. Had not a numb or cold hand at the Arrowhead 135 last year with that set up (and Moose Mitts). Worked so well that I had to put that spendy bar on my other MTB's because I liked it so much.

For boots/pedals. I have my normal SPD's, and a Frankensteined boot/spd. I had some hiking boots that were too big, and the sole too stiff and some old spd shoes. Via some careful measuring, Dremeling, and Shoe Goo...I made some nice spd compatable boots. They also made it through the Arrowhead and a winter of commuting. Hell, in a pinch I even used them as hiking boots this summer.
I might take the frankenstine boot further this winter and hack up a pair of XC ski boots. Made for the cold WX, and I can get the foot to spindle distance closer without giving up stiffness/insulation.
 
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