REVIEWS DEALS BIKESHOPS TRAILS

Handlebar Rise Misconception

10177 Views 44 Replies 17 Participants Last post by jeremy3220, Dec 9, 2021

jeremy3220

Discussion Starter · Dec 7, 2021

3

I used to think a 35mm rise handlebar added 35mm of vertical rise and didn't decrease the effective reach. This is even backed up in articles.

enduro-mtb.com

The right handlebar rise – all you need to know

Is front wheel traction getting you down? If so, it's time to think about your handlebar height. We experiment to find the perfect MTB bar height.

enduro-mtb.com

Product Font Parallel Auto part Elbow

This made sense... until I bought a bmx bike. Playing around with the bar roll I realized with a neutral bar roll the rise of the handlebar is inline with the steering axis.
Very few serious riders run their bars totally vertical, it's usually inline with the fork or just slightly forward.

Bicycle Tire Wheel Bicycles--Equipment and supplies Bicycle wheel

That got me thinking about mountain bikes and how my bars for the most part look to have the rise inline with the steering axis.

So is this whole idea that getting your bar height from riser bars instead of stem spacers preserves the reach a bunch of bologna?
Are any mtb bars designed with this in mind? How are bar back sweep and up sweep angles from manufacturers determined
(aka from what reference point)?

See less See more

1 - 20 of 45 Posts

EatsDirt

· #2 · Dec 8, 2021

I’m not quite sure what you’re getting at... but if part of what you’re saying is there’s likely a bit of variance in grip location between manu’s of the same width/rise/sweep(s) then I’d agree.

dysfunction

· #3 · Dec 8, 2021

Depends on how you roll your bars.

Reactions: 4

jeremy3220

Discussion Starter · #4 · Dec 8, 2021

EatsDirt said:
I’m not quite sure what you’re getting at... but if part of what you’re saying is there’s likely a bit of variance in grip location between manu’s of the same width/rise/sweep(s) then I’d agree.

I'm saying the concept in the enduro-mtb diagram is incorrect because practically no one actually runs their bars rolled that far forward.

However, a mfg could design the bars to have the sweep feel good with the rise in the vertical plane (as opposed to HTA plane)...I've just never heard of it.

Sparticus

· #5 · Dec 8, 2021

I typically need +60mm to +80mm total rise over and above an uncut steerer.
I just get it any way I can.
Steerers on built bikes come cut so I employ as many stem spacers as possible, then take care of the rest via riser bars.
Don't see what other choice I have except to buy a new fork or CSU.
Once I have appropriate riser bars, I play with bar roll and saddle fore/aft positioning to get the cockpit as dialed as possible.
Certainly not science but it's close enough for mountain biking. For me, anyway YMMV
=sParty

Reactions: 1

EatsDirt

· #6 · Dec 8, 2021

I just took a look at my bars... Deity TMo with 15mm rise.

By eyeball, the 15mm rise is on a vertical plane as my bars are rolled. Definitely not a rise back on the steering axis. The up/back sweep obviously have a much larger effect on the overall height/reach on these ‘low rise’ bars but from what I see that article seems about right.

dysfunction

· #7 · Dec 8, 2021

I have 45mm rise sqlabs bars on my lithium and 30mm rise on my paradox. I don't think they're further back on the 45mm. Next time I'm in the barn, I can take a closer look. Same stems, makes a good comparison. Roll is the same, as it's wrist position that lead me to 12° sweep bars.

Reactions: 1

jeremy3220

Discussion Starter · #8 · Dec 8, 2021

I haven't seen a bar like that yet. OneUp even has markings to set the roll by head angle so they flex inline with the fork.

EatsDirt

· #9 · Dec 8, 2021

jeremy3220 said:
I haven't seen a bar like that yet. OneUp even has markings to set the roll by head angle so they flex inline with the fork.

Are you sure you’re isolating the rise from the sweeps? One explanation for my bars would be an extreme roll forward but I highly doubt it.

jeremy3220

Discussion Starter · #10 · Dec 8, 2021 (Edited)

EatsDirt said:
Are you sure you’re isolating the rise from the sweeps? One explanation for my bars would be an extreme roll forward but I highly doubt it.

Yeah, he's a picture of my OneUp bars set according to their guide. Hard to get a great pic with the dropper lever in the way but you should be able to see how the rise is pretty much inline with the HTA. This is a 35mm rise bar, it's hard to see on a shorter rise.

Bicycle Bicycle handlebar Bicycle tire Automotive lighting Bicycle frame

See less See more

jeremy3220

Discussion Starter · #11 · Dec 8, 2021

Here's my DJ with 80mm rise bars. It's even more obvious here. These have a slight forward roll but definitely closer to the HTA than vertical.

Bicycle Wheel Tire Bicycles--Equipment and supplies Bicycle wheel rim

See less See more

dundundata

· #12 · Dec 8, 2021

My bars are all 10mm rise, stem flipped and slammed. I just like being closer to the ground I guess.

No real science to it, just trial and error. I will buy a few cheap stems to play with, move spacers, roll bars until it feels right.

Reactions: 1

maynard4130

· #13 · Dec 8, 2021

I have always run my bars pretty much vertical.

RS VR6

· #14 · Dec 8, 2021 (Edited)

My 29er has a 50mm slammed stem with a flat bar...the 27.5 has a 50mm slammed stem on a Cane Creek Slamset with a 25mm rise bar. I have to run my stem as low as possible to get my grip level with the saddle. The bars are pretty close to being the same height from the ground to the grip. The 27.5 with a slightly longer reach feels a bit more upright with the riser. My saddle is also pretty close relative to the bottom bracket on my bikes.

OneTrustMan

· #15 · Dec 8, 2021

jeremy3220 said:
I'm saying the concept in the enduro-mtb diagram is incorrect because practically no one actually runs their bars rolled that far forward.

I wouldn't jump too quickly on this conclusion.
Went to a lot of bike fittings. I roll my riser bars either like in the diagram, or slightly forward, because it makes my arms to move outwards.
Reason for this is lower back pain issues.
A college also had this back pain issue on longer rides and I said to him to try rotating his riser bars forward.
He also found this much better and still rides like that.

In the end everyone is different.

Reactions: 3

jabrabu

· #16 · Dec 8, 2021

I tend to roll my bars back because I don't like much upsweep -- it puts too much pressure on the outside of my palms. So I roll mine back to reduce upsweep and gain some backsweep, which feels more natural for my wrists and hands. I'm not even sure of the purpose of upsweep, since it seems to put the wrists in an unnatural position. As a result of rolling my bars back to get my grips near horizontal, I run a longer stem than most folks would in order to regain some reach and to be able to pressure the front tire better.

Sparticus

· #17 · Dec 8, 2021

jeremy3220 said:
... practically no one actually runs their bars rolled that far forward.

What makes you say this, jeremy3220?
I mean, how do you know what practically no one does or doesn't do?
I roll my bars that far forward because I prefer the grip section of my bar parallel to the ground or angled slightly up.
I admit I might be the only one on the planet to do so. I just wonder where you've gathered your data to make this statement.
=sParty

Reactions: 1

slomtbr

· #18 · Dec 8, 2021

Worldwide Cyclery did a video:

DachshundBiker

· #19 · Dec 8, 2021

I always thought the same thing. Of course high rise handles bars will also decrease your reach along with steerer spacers. People just can't comprehend.

Reactions: 1

prj71

· #20 · Dec 8, 2021

jeremy3220 said:
I used to think a 35mm rise handlebar added 35mm of vertical rise and didn't decrease the effective reach.

A 35mm rise handlebar WILL add 35mm of vertical rise and WILL NOT decrease the effective reach. If you move the stem up on the steerer that is when you decrease the effective reach.

1 - 20 of 45 Posts

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.