[Burak K]

Hello,
I have Trek X Caliber 8. I am quite happy with the overall performance but tired of finger numbness and fatigue on my hands after each ride.

I decided to do some changes hoping that will help on above mentioned problems. I am changing the stock handlebar, stem and grips with;

• OneUp 20mm rise carbon fiber handlebar
• Industry 9 A 35 Stem
• Ergon GA3 Large Grips

I just wanted to know is this going to make significant change on my ride beside helping on my problem ?

Major differences will be;

• The stock handlebar has 15mm rise and the new one is 20mm
• Current stem is 90mm long and +6 degree new one will be 50mm long and +7 degree

I am ok with slightly upright sitting position and shorter reach to handlebar. Exception to be more comfortable both on my sitting position and less problems on my hand.

Please share your comments.

 

[EABiker]

Before spending any money, try raising the nose of your saddle up a couple of degrees; this tends to keep some weight off of the hands.

 

[eb1888]

Go into your shop with your bike and ask the shop guys to lend you a 50mm stem.
They'll have a box of used stems in service. Bring your multi-tool. It'll take you only a couple minutes to swap stems.
This way you can ride around a bit to see the impacr.
Dropping 40mm will require you to be more active in weighting your front tire for traction in cornering.
You'll have to see if it cramps your cockpit fit from the shorter reach. You can move your seat back on its rails.

 

[d365]

40mm is a pretty huge jump for a stem change typically. You'll definitely notice a difference in handling.

Assuming your old handle bar is narrower, so a wider one will compensate some in reach and leverage for the shorter stem, but I'd wager a 50mm stem is too big of a change, if you overall liked the handling before.

60mm stem is still a big change, but a safer bet if ordering blind. Testing sizes at the LBS suggestion above, is what I would do too.

 

[Battery]

Trek X Cal is gonna be a rougher ride because it's a XC hardtail bike. The bike geometry was designed for longer stems rather than short ones. If I recall, the HTA on an X Cal is 69 degrees which is common for many XC bikes. Judging by your stem and handlebar combo, you should have purchased a trail bike. XC bikes typically have lower rise handlebars and long stems so it has that road/gravel bike feel when riding on XC trails.

If you are having hand fatigue and numbness, you could be gripping the handlebar too tight and not engaging your core enough. When I was mountain biking, I dealt with double carpal tunnel syndrome. The symptoms were far less when I engaged my core and lightened up my grip on the bar.

 

[mtnbkrmike]

As mentioned above, tilt your saddle back a bit to take the pressure off your hands and remove the tokens from your fork.

Set HSC wide open and adjust from there. Install a Luftkappe if still not happy.

And don’t wear padded gloves - they cause more problems than they solve (with me at least).

Also, max the spacers under your stem and buy a 35mm rise softer bar. OneUp is a great choice. Not RF (although I do run RF bars on most of my bikes...maybe I need to take my own advice...).

Start lifting doing compound exercises to increase strength, including core strength - deadlifts are key.

 

[Hexsense]

How about handlebar with more backsweep to put hands in a more natural position first?

Also, I was definitely more fatigue in my hands and fingers when I was new than now. Because I braked so much on 2 piston brake back then. I now use 4 piston brake calipers (SLX 7020) with aftermarket upgraded pads and I just don't brake as much anymore. So, a lot less hand finger and hand fatigue.

 

[BrianU]

That is a butt load of money to spend on parts and will considerably change in how your bike feels and rides, but not necessarily for the better. You said that you are happy with the bike, but just having issues with your hands and this can often be resolved by small changes. What EABiker mentioned above about the saddle angle is a great place to start and when he said a couple degrees, that means moving it a very small amount. This in of itself will have a significant impact on how much weight you place on your hands.

Going from 90mm to a 50mm stem is a huge change and will not just change how you feel on the bike, but change the handling characteristics. Figure that even the XS size version of your bike is spec'ed with a 60mm stem. I agree with eb1888's comment about borrowing a 50mm stem and personally would try a 70mm stem first. If you are set on getting those OneUp bars, I would go ahead and get them before trying different stems. First, because you currently have a 31.8 stem and the OneUps are 35mm. Second, because they are wider and if you are going start making changes, going to want to figure that in. If borrowing a stem is not possible or a hassle, on every bike I build up, if I do not have what I want in the garage somewhere, I look for something cheap first. Lots of $15-20 stems on places like Pinkbike classifieds, Ebay, Amazon, and many bike mailorder sites. After riding a certain stem for awhile and sure that is what I want, then I start thinking about the bling factor. I have one of those I9 stems and they sure are pretty, but that does not mean much if you find out it is the wrong size.

 

[Harold]

Of all the things, a 35mm clamp to your bar is going to make it STIFFER and could well make your problem worse.

The adjustments you're making are huge. Do you have any idea if you're going to like that or not? My preference is when making FIT changes (dimensions to bars/stem), to use cheap parts (sometimes even freebies if I can get my hands on them) to dial in fit before buying a nicer equivalent for appearance.

It might seem counterintuitive, but bringing the bars closer to the saddle can make for more pressure on your hands, and create problems elsewhere. If you don't actually need your bars closer to the saddle, it can cause you to hunch your shoulders and arch your back and that can make for a pretty terrible riding experience. Again, use cheap parts to dial in fit. Make small adjustments, one at a time, and trial them before committing to expensive parts.

Not all carbon bars are created equally. Some can be maddeningly stiff. I've had some incredibly stiff ones in the past. Currently using Spank Vibrocore aluminum bars and they're super comfortable (as well as a ton less expensive than carbon). There's a place for carbon, but it's not going to solve every problem.

Also, do you have a specific reason for choosing the Ergon GA3 large grips? grip shape is very personal, to start with. And not everybody likes bigger grips. I have long fingers, and they're an improvement for me. But they don't work for everyone.

 

[eb1888]

35mm bars are not an upgrade, imo. They look more mt bikey. But they're unnecessarily stiffer. And that means they'll transmit more vibrations into your hands. The OneUps are supposed to help dampen the vibrations. But some 31.8 carbon bars would do a better job for your riding.

 

[phlegm]

...The OneUps are supposed to help dampen the vibrations. But some 31.8 carbon bars would do a better job for your riding.

I think the OP should first confirm the rise change makes a difference. I'd start with cheaper bars, then move to carbon.

On a related note, we've all heard the claims re carbon and vibration dampening, and I'm not sure it is a factor for MTB. On the more constant pavement buzz on a road bike I think there's merit, but I've used both carbon and alloy bars and can't say I can tell a difference in the bush.

I think the fit will take precedence over materials.

 

[kevine1785]

Like many have said here, I would not spend all that money on items that are more likely to increase your handlebar stiffness. Try the seat tilt, and maybe go to a 70mm stem. The Ergon grips are a great investment as well (I have the GA3 and LOVE them!).

Other than that loosening your grip a little isnt a bad idea, and if you want to mess a little more, change the angle of your brake levers slightly (I like mine higher than most).

 

[smoothmoose]

+1 for GA3 grips. Buy multiple if you find them on sale. I do notice a difference with carbon bars, but try the grips first. Other thing i just noticed for me is sizing down my reach (you can try a shorter stem - or larger sweep), has a made a big difference on the climbs to reduce hand numbness.

 

[Ptor]

As if there hasn’t been enough advice, consider moving your saddle backwards (so forward on the rails of the saddle) — this doesn’t cost anything and might well take some of the pressure off your hands. It sounds like you have too much weight on your hands, so pushing your hips back by moving the saddle to the rear of the bike could help. It doesn’t seem like the XCaliber 8 has a particularly steep seat tube angle, but I‘ve always been more comfortable with my seat further back allowing me to decrease the weight on my hands — I always have used a setback seatpost.

 

[LPOH]

Consider a more compliant handlebar, like the Spank Vibrocore or PNW Range. I couldn't wait to get the One Up carbon bars off my hardtail. It might be more compliant than other carbon bars, but the difference was huge when I switched to the PNW's. No more numbness. The slightly increased backsweep of the PNW's also felt a lot better to me, but that's a personal preference. Change your stem length in smaller increments, and experiment with changing stack height as much as you can with the stem spacers first. And I like the advice given to you in the above posts.

 

[fftfk]

I used an industry 9 stem, one up handlebar with 35 rise. And fat paw grips. The handlebar and grips helped the most. I would describe the handlebar as a subtle change. It was not immediately noticeable on the bike but I did notice it in my hands, shoulders, and neck with less fatigue. my hands would norm start cramping at mile 3-5 while know it takes from mile 6-7 before cramping. The grips are nice because you can get different sizes to fit your hands better

 

[pushie]

I am ok with slightly upright sitting position and shorter reach to handlebar.

'Slightly'

That change will be like moving down 2 bike sizes in terms of reach. Its a huge change.

What height are you and what size is the bike?

If the bike is already appropriately sized for you then as already mentioned, some minor adjustments to bike setup and improvement in your technique should be all that is needed. You shouldn't need to change any parts beyond grips.

 

[mtnbkrmike]

Consider a more compliant handlebar, like the Spank Vibrocore or PNW Range. I couldn't wait to get the One Up carbon bars off my hardtail. It might be more compliant than other carbon bars, but the difference was huge when I switched to the PNW's. No more numbness. The slightly increased backsweep of the PNW's also felt a lot better to me, but that's a personal preference. Change your stem length in smaller increments, and experiment with changing stack height as much as you can with the stem spacers first. And I like the advice given to you in the above posts.

Wow. First time I have heard anything the slightest bit negative about the OneUp bar. Interesting.

 

[Burak K]

Go into your shop with your bike and ask the shop guys to lend you a 50mm stem.
They'll have a box of used stems in service. Bring your multi-tool. It'll take you only a couple minutes to swap stems.
This way you can ride around a bit to see the impacr.
Dropping 40mm will require you to be more active in weighting your front tire for traction in cornering.
You'll have to see if it cramps your cockpit fit from the shorter reach. You can move your seat back on its rails.

Good idea I will definitely try before I use my new 50mm stem

 

[Burak K]

Go into your shop with your bike and ask the shop guys to lend you a 50mm stem.
They'll have a box of used stems in service. Bring your multi-tool. It'll take you only a couple minutes to swap stems.
This way you can ride around a bit to see the impacr.
Dropping 40mm will require you to be more active in weighting your front tire for traction in cornering.
You'll have to see if it cramps your cockpit fit from the shorter reach. You can move your seat back on its rails.

That is a butt load of money to spend on parts and will considerably change in how your bike feels and rides, but not necessarily for the better. You said that you are happy with the bike, but just having issues with your hands and this can often be resolved by small changes. What EABiker mentioned above about the saddle angle is a great place to start and when he said a couple degrees, that means moving it a very small amount. This in of itself will have a significant impact on how much weight you place on your hands.

Going from 90mm to a 50mm stem is a huge change and will not just change how you feel on the bike, but change the handling characteristics. Figure that even the XS size version of your bike is spec'ed with a 60mm stem. I agree with eb1888's comment about borrowing a 50mm stem and personally would try a 70mm stem first. If you are set on getting those OneUp bars, I would go ahead and get them before trying different stems. First, because you currently have a 31.8 stem and the OneUps are 35mm. Second, because they are wider and if you are going start making changes, going to want to figure that in. If borrowing a stem is not possible or a hassle, on every bike I build up, if I do not have what I want in the garage somewhere, I look for something cheap first. Lots of $15-20 stems on places like Pinkbike classifieds, Ebay, Amazon, and many bike mailorder sites. After riding a certain stem for awhile and sure that is what I want, then I start thinking about the bling factor. I have one of those I9 stems and they sure are pretty, but that does not mean much if you find out it is the wrong size.

Thank you fie the advise great idea to order cheap one to try it first