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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Building up a Transition Vanquish with parts from the good ole parts bin, and I can't get the indexing worked out. GX eagle drivetrain with non-boost crankset. Chainring as inboard as possible without rubbing. Non-boost wheelset using conversion kit. Conversion kit moves chainline in 3mm, but I probably have the chainring 2mm further in that normal boost chainline. Difference should only be about 1mm.
Brand new housing
Brand new cable
Drivetrain working great on last bike
Has been sitting in parts bin probably 3-4 months

Symptoms are that won't shift down or up consistently. Once I tighten cable enough to shift out of smallest cog, it will not shift down anymore. Loosen it, and it won't shift up (lower gear). B limit set with eagle spacing tool. Upper and lower limits about 1/4 turn out from touching. Checked hander jic, and its straight. Similar symptoms to friction from worn/dirty cable/housing, but they are brand new.

Any ideas?
 

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Hi GatorXman,

You it's cruel fate that your shortened user name, GX, is the name of the drivetrain that's misbehaving.

Regarding the new cable and housing, to check that there somehow isn't too much friction in there somewhere, have you disconnected the cable from the mech and checked how freely it moves in the housing?

Are the cable and housing compatible? Is the cable too thick for the housing?

Is the length of housing between the frame and the mech correct?

I'm not sure what you mean by "Upper and lower limits about 1/4 turn out from touching". Is the limit screw set so that the upper mech's jockey wheel is sitting directly underneath the 10t cassette cog?

Here's a great set-up video
https://www.imbikemag.com/mountain-bike-news/2019/03/how-does-greg-minnaar-like-his-gears/
One thing his mechanic does, which I think I do (?), I set it up with enough initial cable tension so that ideally the bike shifts out the smallest cog with no added cable tension being added by from the shifter barrel

Is the chain length ok, not too long?

Is the mech bent somehow? Is it properly mounted to the der hanger / frame e.g. is it tight?? Is the der hanger tight?

It doesn't sound like it, bit will it make a difference if you set the b-screw with the bike sagged?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I checked alignment with alignment tool.
Cable housing and cable should be compatible (have used same housing and cable before).
Bike is a hardtail...followed sram suggestion for chain length
Limit screws set per SRAM instructions...tighten till they touch/begin to move derailleur, then loosen 1/4 turn

Gonna take a look at everything with fresh eyes today
 

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Sounds crazy but remove the rear wheel and re-install it. Every so often when I remove the wheel for maintenance/cleaning and put it back on my shifting will go to junk.. took me a few nights of frustration to realize that simply re-installing the wheel and having it sitting on the ground (not in the stand) before I tighten the thru-axle gets it back in the exact same place every time. Haven't really had the issue since I started that practice.. Eagle is that sensitive
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Cable must me hanging up somewhere. Had it indexing properly on the stand after resetting all the limits, tension, and cyclng it multiple times. Took it out for a spin, and it would not shift up OR down properly nor consistently.
I'll try a new cable and see.
 

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Cable must me hanging up somewhere. Had it indexing properly on the stand after resetting all the limits, tension, and cyclng it multiple times. Took it out for a spin, and it would not shift up OR down properly nor consistently.
I'll try a new cable and see.
Awesome that you had it shifting properly on the stand :thumbsup:

Is there any chance that the cable & ferrrures have "settled", and the cable now has a little too much slack in it (and for whatever reason it doesn't like the slack being taken up via the adjuster barrel?)? Did you pull hard on the cable to seat things? It might be worthwhile to:
  1. undo the cable at the mech,
  2. retension it, then re-tighten,
  3. make any changes to barrel tension,
  4. then retest on the road

If you do change the cable, without sounding like a broken record, I'd check that the new cable moves freely in the housing, just in case there's something weird with the housing.

Hopefully you get it fixed easily from here :yesnod:
 

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Cable must me hanging up somewhere. Had it indexing properly on the stand after resetting all the limits, tension, and cyclng it multiple times. Took it out for a spin, and it would not shift up OR down properly nor consistently.
That sounds like the b screw is off. If it's full suspension make sure the b screw is set in the sagged position.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Awesome that you had it shifting properly on the stand :thumbsup:

Is there any chance that the cable & ferrrures have "settled", and the cable now has a little too much slack in it (and for whatever reason it doesn't like the slack being taken up via the adjuster barrel?)? Did you pull hard on the cable to seat things? It might be worthwhile to:
  1. undo the cable at the mech,
  2. retension it, then re-tighten,
  3. make any changes to barrel tension,
  4. then retest on the road

If you do change the cable, without sounding like a broken record, I'd check that the new cable moves freely in the housing, just in case there's something weird with the housing.

Hopefully you get it fixed easily from here :yesnod:
I already retensioned by hand the original cable (actually had that issue on another bike). Cable took a bit more pressure to push through housing than normal, so hopefully I can find if/where it is hanging up. If I can't get it sorted, I'll take it to LBS to get a fresh set of eyes on it.

That sounds like the b screw is off. If it's full suspension make sure the b screw is set in the sagged position.
I use my Eagle AXS b gap tool....is it different than standard eagle gap? Figured that same cassette, so same gap
 

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I already retensioned by hand the original cable (actually had that issue on another bike). Cable took a bit more pressure to push through housing than normal, so hopefully I can find if/where it is hanging up. If I can't get it sorted, I'll take it to LBS to get a fresh set of eyes on it.

I use my Eagle AXS b gap tool....is it different than standard eagle gap? Figured that same cassette, so same gap
Gap is different as per an AXS installation guide video posted by world wide cyclery. Use the red tool for standard eagle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Gap is different as per an AXS installation guide video posted by world wide cyclery. Use the red tool for standard eagle.
Thanks, I'll pick up the red tool

And the suspension also needs to be compressed to the sag point. If it shifts properly on the stand but not when you ride it (compress the suspension) then it's probably the b gap.
Bike is a hardtail
 

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If the hanger is straight I'd say it's the B gap. I struggled with a standard eagle setup (1X boost no adapters). turned out the gap was too narrow. It should be 14mm at he largest gear
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
It was the B gap.
Apparently the AXS tool sets the gap about 6mm bigger than the standard Eagle tool. Wish I would have known and saved all of this frustration.

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction guys.
 
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