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For those having issues with Guide brake levers not returning, my LBS got SRAM to warranty them and also upgraded them (RS to RSC). Anecdotally they had 3 warranty repairs including mine that week. So far they feel great. Not certain if it's a redesign or a recall, but if you are having similar issues take it to your LBS. My brakes started to act up ~9 months since I bought them. Bleeding and brake pad replacement and piston cleaning did nothing.
 

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Interesting! My left RSC lever just started to develop the same. Sometimes after leaving the (cold) bike in direct sunlight for a few minutes the lever gets stuck or will only return very slowly. It usually gets better after a few minutes, so seems to be a weather/temperature related issue
 

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It's an O ring issue in the lever they are aware of. Had mine replaced under warranty without question. Temperature does seem to exacerbate the issue, pouring ice cold water on mine would momentarily fix it.
 

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my Juicy 3s did this when it was hot outside. ill never use Sram brakes again. theyld lock up when it was hot outside, and wouldnt release until it cooled down at night

lame
 

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For those having issues with Guide brake levers not returning, my LBS got SRAM to warranty them and also upgraded them (RS to RSC). Anecdotally they had 3 warranty repairs including mine that week. So far they feel great. Not certain if it's a redesign or a recall, but if you are having similar issues take it to your LBS. My brakes started to act up ~9 months since I bought them. Bleeding and brake pad replacement and piston cleaning did nothing.
The same thing is happening to me. Sounds very common after reading up on it. I have a few questions...

How long did the warranty process take?
Did they warranty both brakes or just the one?
Did they also upgrade the rotors to fit the new brakes?

Thanks for the post!
 

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Incase anyone else is having the same problem.

Mine was definitely caused by heat. When the bike was stored in the AC there was no problem at all. In the bike shop the brake would act perfect. However, by the time I would get to the trail the rear brake is back to being stuck closed with no spring back from the lever. Sometimes leaving the brake locked in place. Fun! Especially when it happens halfway on a there and back trail!

Just dropped mine off at a LBS for a warranty claim. Hope they can handle mine too!
 

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Has anyone been able to have this problem resolved without going through a LBS? My new, (400 miles), Guide R's will stick if left out in the sun. Pouring cool water on the lever fixes it every time. I would rather not be without my bike while going through the warranty process, plus I got my bike from Bikes Direct, so I am sure that the LBS won't put me on their priority list! What is the actual problem/fix? Is it just O rings, or is the piston/housing faulty? I did properly bleed it with no change in it's symptoms.
 

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Interesting I found this thread -- I just had an issue yesterday. Brakes Guide R's pretty much completely failed in a dangerous defect kind of way. Modulation was way off, front lever stuck to bars, and the adjuster rotated to lock it in -- I went over the bars and smashed into the crunchy sagebrush -- which thank God it was there, it broke my fall and I only have scrapes, bruises and a little whiplash.

This is a design defect! If all Avid has to do is replace, they are getting out ahead -- some people may get more injured and sue. NEVER had an issue like this with Shimanos, been mountainbiking for 25 years.

If you look at the photo, you'll see the adjuster has rotated to lock the lever in place -- It's locked in place, I can't get it out without prying it, and the brake is hydrolocked.
Bicycle part Black Grey Carbon Synthetic rubber
 

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I'm so glad I found this thread! I am having the same issue with my Guide RS brakes on my one-year-old YT Capra. I started to notice it last fall (when it was still warm in TX), but assumed that I just needed to rebleed and clean the caliper. I did just that this winter (completely replaced the fluid and followed the service manual), and it seemed to be a bit better, though never as good as new. As the season has progressed, I've noticed it more and more, and, of course, it is strongly correlated to the increasing temperatures. Particularly after a ride on the roof rack, in the sun.

I'm in Austin, TX and just had my first 90+ degree ride of the season, and the levers were super slow on the return. Much worse on the rear brake than the front, but noticeable on both. After seeing this thread, I took my bike inside to the air conditioning. Checked this morning, and the levers felt perfectly normal. So strange. I don't think I ever would have diagnosed it as heat related until I found this thread. I'm certain no LBS around here would have figured that out either. I have a long, hot summer ahead of me and am not happy about this defect!

I've written to YT tech support and hope they help me out. I've already had two other SRAM products replaced under warranty: Reverb with blown seal and Pike with premature stanchion wear due to insufficient oil from the factory.
 

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Same thing here, 20 C slow return 25C et + very slow return and the levers get stuck. Send it to Sram got it back 10 days later, change parts in the front lever, now it worst, slow return at every temperatures and rear lever no change. Very disapointed, think about trow them in fire and dance around it for conjuring the bad luck...
 

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Just when I'm considering switching from Shimano, something like this comes up. Sorry SRAM.

Tested this out on a handful of demo bikes on display at a shop. Almost all of them had the sticky lever.
 

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I'm having the same issue with a set of DB5s. Took them apart to find the master cylinder was rubbing on the lever body and wearing down. Had to push the cylinder out with fluid, it wouldn't just pull out like it should.
 

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I'm having the same issue with a set of DB5s. Took them apart to find the master cylinder was rubbing on the lever body and wearing down. Had to push the cylinder out with fluid, it wouldn't just pull out like it should.
interesting but not sure what you mean,
how can the cylinder rub against the lever body?
please elaborate
 

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interesting but not sure what you mean,
how can the cylinder rub against the lever body?
please elaborate
Next time I pull it apart to replace it I will take pictures. But basically the cylinder is fitted into a hole in the lever body and is moved up and down by the lever. When I took the cylinder out it had rub marks all over it matching the color of the body. There was also plastic shavings inside from the cylinder that I had to clean out. It was very hard to remove the cylinder from the body and put it back in. However I did all this work in the warm, and I'm facing exactly what is described above, the brakes work fine in the cold. I'm also very confused how this would happen especially with that looks like permanent damage to the cylinder. Brakes are 10 months old and just started acting up when it got warm. Overnight in the cold they work fine though...
 

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Interesting I found this thread -- I just had an issue yesterday. Brakes Guide R's pretty much completely failed in a dangerous defect kind of way. Modulation was way off, front lever stuck to bars, and the adjuster rotated to lock it in -- I went over the bars and smashed into the crunchy sagebrush -- which thank God it was there, it broke my fall and I only have scrapes, bruises and a little whiplash.

This is a design defect! If all Avid has to do is replace, they are getting out ahead -- some people may get more injured and sue. NEVER had an issue like this with Shimanos, been mountainbiking for 25 years.

If you look at the photo, you'll see the adjuster has rotated to lock the lever in place -- It's locked in place, I can't get it out without prying it, and the brake is hydrolocked.
View attachment 1073502
I've just received my RSC replacement and they redesigned the levers, now it's theoretically possible for the above to happen if you're unlucky. The original levers were better in this regard...
 

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I ordered and installed the Sram lever internal parts kit; 100% cured the problem! I found that rubber from the piston seal was rubbing off inside the bore. I guess the rubber they used would swell from the brake fluid, and the tolerances were so close that the slight expansion from heat would cause too much friction and binding. Cheap DIY fix, ($17), but the snap ring is a pain in the butt to get out, (in one piece, anyway!).
 
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