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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got a new Peace about a month ago and have been very satisfied with it so far. However, the other night while looking it over I noticed that the shifter/brake cables were already wearing on the paint of the headtube a little. Stealing an idea from Roadbike Action magazine I decided to try routing the shifter cables to the opposite sides of the frame. Here are some before photos.
Bicycle frame Bicycle handlebar Bicycle part Bicycles--Equipment and supplies Bicycle


Bicycle frame Blue Bicycle part Bicycle Bicycle accessory


Bicycle frame Blue Bicycle part Bicycle accessory Bicycle


I didn't want to disconnect the shifter cables form the derailers, this is possible with the rear derailer, but not the front. First I cross chained my drive train -- big chainring, to big cog. Then I shifted both shifters all the way the other way to make as much slack in the cable as possible. I pulled off my right brake lever and shifter pod and rerouted it to the opposite side and reattached my right shifter pod and brake lever. Then I marked where my front derailer cable attached to the front derailer with a sharpie and removed it so I could reroute that cable to the other side of the bike. I reattached the cable using my sharpie mark as a reference. In the end, my shifter cables needed no adjustment, and the quick precise shifting I had before was preserved. I am sure a small amount of luck was involved there. Here are the after photos.

Bicycle frame Blue Bicycle part Bicycle Bicycle accessory


Bicycle part Bicycle handlebar Bicycle accessory Bicycle Bicycles--Equipment and supplies


Another problem I have experienced with this bike (apparently a common problem) is seatpost slippage. I simply removed the Plastic spacer (which had cracked) that the seatpost clamp qr lever rides in and replaced it with with a couple of washers. It's only been a few days, but no slippage so far.

All in all, simple fixes, but perhaps they can be helpful to someone else.
 

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SSolo, on your left!
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Looks better (less friction) but ideally I'd shorten up some of the sections of housing and then the inner cable to match....less friction due to better cable curvature and shorter cable housings. Also less weight due to cutting out some of the cable. Brakes are easy to do, derailleurs are more work as they will need completely readjusted.
 

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IMHO the cables were routed incorrectly when the LBS put the bike together. Who would route cables so they rub on paint when it's easily avoidable? Good fix.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I ordered mine from performance, that's the way the cables were routed before it was put into the box to america. I looked at some past posts, and that's the way all that I saw were as well.

dw
 

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Mouth-Breather / Huffer
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Nice. I did something similar with my cables when I upgraded the brakes and switched out the stem and handlebar. Much, much better now...
 

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my seat post clamp plastic washer was cracked as well, performance replaced for free, but I like the metal washer idea, good one!
 

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Guru_of_Poo said:
my seat post clamp plastic washer was cracked as well, performance replaced for free, but I like the metal washer idea, good one!
I was one of the unfortunate few with serious seat-slippage issues. The stock seat collar lasted for about a week. I ended up replacing my seat collar with a 29.8mm Woodman Death Grip (well, after first trying a 28.6mm collar, ahem...). I also bent the stock seat post, so I replaced it with a Race Face Diabolus. Seat slip solved.

For the Peace 9r owners suffering slipping seatpost syndrome...
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=513594
 
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