Looks better (less friction) but ideally I'd shorten up some of the sections of housing and then the inner cable to match....less friction due to better cable curvature and shorter cable housings. Also less weight due to cutting out some of the cable. Brakes are easy to do, derailleurs are more work as they will need completely readjusted.
GT Peace 9'r multi cable reroute
I got a new Peace about a month ago and have been very satisfied with it so far. However, the other night while looking it over I noticed that the shifter/brake cables were already wearing on the paint of the headtube a little. Stealing an idea from Roadbike Action magazine I decided to try routing the shifter cables to the opposite sides of the frame. Here are some before photos.
![Bicycle frame Bicycle handlebar Bicycle part Bicycles--Equipment and supplies Bicycle]()
![Bicycle frame Blue Bicycle part Bicycle Bicycle accessory]()
![Bicycle frame Blue Bicycle part Bicycle accessory Bicycle]()
I didn't want to disconnect the shifter cables form the derailers, this is possible with the rear derailer, but not the front. First I cross chained my drive train -- big chainring, to big cog. Then I shifted both shifters all the way the other way to make as much slack in the cable as possible. I pulled off my right brake lever and shifter pod and rerouted it to the opposite side and reattached my right shifter pod and brake lever. Then I marked where my front derailer cable attached to the front derailer with a sharpie and removed it so I could reroute that cable to the other side of the bike. I reattached the cable using my sharpie mark as a reference. In the end, my shifter cables needed no adjustment, and the quick precise shifting I had before was preserved. I am sure a small amount of luck was involved there. Here are the after photos.
![Bicycle frame Blue Bicycle part Bicycle Bicycle accessory]()
![Bicycle part Bicycle handlebar Bicycle accessory Bicycle Bicycles--Equipment and supplies]()
Another problem I have experienced with this bike (apparently a common problem) is seatpost slippage. I simply removed the Plastic spacer (which had cracked) that the seatpost clamp qr lever rides in and replaced it with with a couple of washers. It's only been a few days, but no slippage so far.
All in all, simple fixes, but perhaps they can be helpful to someone else.
I didn't want to disconnect the shifter cables form the derailers, this is possible with the rear derailer, but not the front. First I cross chained my drive train -- big chainring, to big cog. Then I shifted both shifters all the way the other way to make as much slack in the cable as possible. I pulled off my right brake lever and shifter pod and rerouted it to the opposite side and reattached my right shifter pod and brake lever. Then I marked where my front derailer cable attached to the front derailer with a sharpie and removed it so I could reroute that cable to the other side of the bike. I reattached the cable using my sharpie mark as a reference. In the end, my shifter cables needed no adjustment, and the quick precise shifting I had before was preserved. I am sure a small amount of luck was involved there. Here are the after photos.
Another problem I have experienced with this bike (apparently a common problem) is seatpost slippage. I simply removed the Plastic spacer (which had cracked) that the seatpost clamp qr lever rides in and replaced it with with a couple of washers. It's only been a few days, but no slippage so far.
All in all, simple fixes, but perhaps they can be helpful to someone else.
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