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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just ordered a new 2008 Avalanche 2.0 with Tektro Aguila Comp Hydraulic Disc brakes and was wondering if the disc were screwed onto the hub or held on by rivets? I put a Iron Horse Warrior 5.0 togeather for a friend and noted the Shimano Hydraulic brakes were not the greatest and the disc were rivited to the hubs? Also I ordred a size small as he's 5'4" and as near as I could tell the small was about a 16" frame. Looks like a very nice setup for the money and Performance Bikes have 10% off till tomorrow. Would be great to here from all who own one and how well you like the bike. My sons 15 so he'll be pretty surprise come birthday time in April.
 

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There are 2 common methods of holding rotors to the hubs the Shimano "centerlock" system where the disks fit onto the hubs with the centerlock (very nice system!) or the more traditional system were the hub has 6 bolts and torx screws are holding the rotor to the hub. This really breaks down to 2 methods of putting the disk rotors onto the hubs. Both can be replaced when the rotors wear but these systems are not interchangeable. Check out shimano's site on Deore here http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/mountain/deore.html both systems have advantages and disadvantages the bolt onto the hub system runs the risk of the disks getting loose if the bolts loosen.
 

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Wow you bought the bike for your son 4 months in advance! I have a 2008 1.0 and it's been great so far. Firm, strong, sturdy ride. The saddle seems more comfy than my older 3.0 but I haven't gotten much ride time yet due to the weather/season. One minor (very minor) issue I have with the bike is that the water bottle cage mount (2 holes) is off center. It's just a little annoying to look down and see more of the right side of the bottle versus the left.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The bike will be sitting at my office until April. Guess I'll be taking my bike stand in t assemble. Hated to buy something without seeing it but based on what I've read I feel pretty comfortable.Anyhow Performance has a 100% Satisfaction Guarantee.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Whats the word on the Kenda Nevegals on the bike? Are they standard set or a less expensive heavier OEM tire?? Not sure if they do such a thing but I noticed there were not many marking on the tires in the photo's?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Still not sure if they are of the same quality or a lessor expensive version the OEM are putting on? I have a pair of Negegal DTC on my F/S and these on the GT seem to be a lower budget and my guess is heavier version. In the auto world they put a cheaper version of the tires on. Wasn't sure if they did the same think in the bike world??
 

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Hmm, this is the first I've heard about having two versions of the same tire with 1 version being a lower quality in both auto/biking world. I believe that would be illegal. They have to at least change the name of the tire or version. I haven't quite broken in my tires in yet, but so far so good. Very predictable, traction seems good so far on light sand and dirt.

One issue with the bikes that I've bought from my performance bike is that they didn't tune the rear derailleur very well. Both bikes were ghost shifting back there and needed minor adjustments. I'm not sure if you knew but the bikes you buy from them comes with lifetime adjustments if you have any issues. My performance bike was kind of far so I made my own.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well let me rephrase the tire issue. OEM auto tires come with less tread life than your off the shelf tires you purchase from a retailer. One way they cut cost in the auto industry. I know Kenda has several different models of the Nevegal so I'm assuming this is the cheaper heavier version? I run the DCT model and love them.

As for the shifting issues I assumed I'd have some problems. I'm some distance to any of the stores so I'll be making all the adjustments. By the way were the hydraulic brakes already bled down and in order??
 

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Brakes working perfectly, pads need to be worn in a little bit (obviously). I'm not too sure which version of the tires they are, I'm sure the manufacturer opted for the cheaper version though (at least that's what i would do if i was the manufacturer).
 

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Does anyone know what the deal is with the two Avalanche 2.0's at Performance. I noticed they have the 2.0 with mechanical disc and one with hydraulic disc for the same price ($499). Did they cut back somewhere on the hydraulic version. The only thing I really noticed was the hydraulic version comes with a different crankset the M311 versus the M341 on the 2.0 with mecanical discs. Best I can tell is the M311 has riveted chainrings while the M341 comes with a crank with replaceable chainrings.
 

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I think you still did better with the 2.0. The difference in price is more like $150 (I think the 1.0 is going for $649 versus $499 for the 2.0 at Performance). With the $150 you saved you can easily upgrade the front and rear deraillueur and the shifters. The only other real difference is the front shock, and I'm not sure if the Suntour X-100 is really that much better than the Suntour XCR-Lo. Does anyone have experience with these two entry level front forks.
 

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Was the $599 a pre-christmas sale price. Today when I checkedit was $649. Guess I should wait for the price to come down. I've been keeping my eye on the 1.0 and 2.0. BTW, what was the lowest folks have seen the 2.0 on sale for. Today it was $499.
 

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Does anyone know what the deal is with the two Avalanche 2.0's at Performance. I noticed they have the 2.0 with mechanical disc and one with hydraulic disc for the same price ($499). Did they cut back somewhere on the hydraulic version. The only thing I really noticed was the hydraulic version comes with a different crankset the M311 versus the M341 on the 2.0 with mecanical discs. Best I can tell is the M311 has riveted chainrings while the M341 comes with a crank with replaceable chainrings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
When I placed the order for the 2.0 the 1.0 was at $599.00. I noted a few days ago they raised the price to $649.00 As for the two different versions of the 2.0 I went through the same thing. Spent the better part of a couple hours comparing parts and googling component's to see what the better value was. I decided the Hydraulic brakes made the better sense between the two. I also spent time on ebay on the derailleurs and found for about $40.00 I could upgrade the front and rear with XT's. I figured I'd have my son ride it for a while and we'll see if there's any issues and make the upgrades from there. To be honest I think I have just as much fun riding as I do tuning and upgrading. Allin all it seems like a very good value.

Our other choice was the Iron Horse Warrior 5.0 at rscyles at $599 (now their offering 25% off that price). The downfall with that setup was the brakes and the fact the Tora fork only had rebound adjustment and no lockout. I think for the most part these lower end forks all do about the same think. Which means you get what you pay for. That said I will say I'm amazed at what you can buy now days for $500., Heck just a few years ago the same bike would cost a $1,000.
 

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Tailwaters, did you do much research on the front forks that come on the 1.0 and 2.0. I noticed the 1.0 comes with the Suntour X-100 and the 2.0 comes with Suntour XCR-LO. Not sure if its worth paying the extra $100 for the X-100. Might be better pocketing the cash and buying a "good" front fork when the stock fork needs replacement.
 
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