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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have problems with the FIT4 cartridge i my Fox 34sc overheating in rough terrain, to the point of ruining the oil and needing oil changes. I have considered downgrading to a GRIP damper to get more oil volume, and this got me thinking: I love how I can make the GRIP2 on my 36 do exactly what I want it do do, and would love this kind of adjustability and performance on my 34sc as well. Anybody know if it is possible to hodge-podge something together from 34 GRIP and 36 GRIP2 parts? Or is it easy to change the rebound shims on the GRIP? I'm running around 70psi, and I think the shims are much too stiff for this pressure, at least they are on the FIT4.

I am using the 34sc on a Intense Sniper Trail, where I already replace the stock Fox DPS shock with the much more capable Fox DPX2.
 

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Elitest thrill junkie
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Does the step cast fork have a lower volume damper? Possibly the normal 34 would work better.

SC and a DPX2 seems like a weird combination to me anyway.
I would think you could build a pretty kickass 120/120 bike or 120/100 like the SB100, or with a 120mm bike put a 10mm crown spacer in there and run the much lighter 34SC. Don't need the heavier 34 for any of that and the DPX2 would be a good rear shock in all of those cases. The SB100 kind of limits you with the short stroke, but advertising as "downcountry", it should be able to take a DPX2 IMO. That's the whole point of "downcountry".
 

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I have problems with the FIT4 cartridge i my Fox 34sc overheating in rough terrain, to the point of ruining the oil and needing oil changes. I have considered downgrading to a GRIP damper to get more oil volume, and this got me thinking: I love how I can make the GRIP2 on my 36 do exactly what I want it do do, and would love this kind of adjustability and performance on my 34sc as well. Anybody know if it is possible to hodge-podge something together from 34 GRIP and 36 GRIP2 parts? Or is it easy to change the rebound shims on the GRIP? I'm running around 70psi, and I think the shims are much too stiff for this pressure, at least they are on the FIT4.

I am using the 34sc on a Intense Sniper Trail, where I already replace the stock Fox DPS shock with the much more capable Fox DPX2.
This sounds bizarre. I've never seen a fork overheat and oil can run at 100C without issues. What is the fork and oil actually doing?

Why are you even riding a 34 SC if you ride hard?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
This sounds bizarre. I've never seen a fork overheat and oil can run at 100C without issues. What is the fork and oil actually doing?

Why are you even riding a 34 SC if you ride hard?
This is my XC race bike, and the terrain is often rough, with lots of deep roots and rocks. During hard riding, the damper heats up enough to lose a lot of low speed damping. My stock rear shock (Fox DPS) did this even worse, and permanently lost an amount of low speed damping even though there was no gas in the oil. My fork is now starting to feel the same way, loss of composure that can't be adjusted for. I'm hoping to find a way to make this not occur. Would it help to thermally connect the lower part of the damper to the inner fork leg? That's an untapped potential for a heat sink.
 

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This is my XC race bike, and the terrain is often rough, with lots of deep roots and rocks. During hard riding, the damper heats up enough to lose a lot of low speed damping. My stock rear shock (Fox DPS) did this even worse, and permanently lost an amount of low speed damping even though there was no gas in the oil. My fork is now starting to feel the same way, loss of composure that can't be adjusted for. I'm hoping to find a way to make this not occur. Would it help to thermally connect the lower part of the damper to the inner fork leg? That's an untapped potential for a heat sink.
If you're getting fluid fade then rebound speed is always the first thing to change. But it comes back when it cools down.

Loss of damping that remains sounds like you've sucked in air and foamed up the oil. The stock rear shock oil is Torco RSF Med which has a decent VI so fading out isn't common.
You need a service with vacuum bleed and higher IFP pressure.

If you are getting fluid fade in the fork then you need a better fluid with higher VI. Stock Fox R3 isn't good.
 
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