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YRTRNRSHVY
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a ~2014 Czar with the journal bearings. I hadn't greased in a while and so tonight I cleaned up the zerk fittings and used the grease gun and super lube I got from Turn a few years back. But when I tried to put grease in the zerk it wouldn't take much or any. I could feel the ball being depressed in the fitting and I can also push in the ball and see it return fully when I push it with a small awl. I pushed the pump fairly hard in hopes of purging the pivot and seeing the grease push past the o-ring, but that never happened. What could be wrong?
 

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Tough to say, but the zerk fittings can be removed for closer inspection. The fittings on older bikes were friction fit and would often be pushed out if the pivot was overfilled with grease. Later model bikes had threaded fittings.

I’ve found that on some pivots, the bushings nearly butt up against one another, not allowing much, if any, grease to pass through to the axle.


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YRTRNRSHVY
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
yeah these are threaded zerk fittings. I guess I could disassemble the pivot to inspect if I don't find anything wrong with the zerk fitting. I'm wondering if the grease hasn't dried out and therefore I can't get any new grease in to the pivot.

Thanks.
 

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First, you should not pump in so much grease that the grease pushed out from the O-rings. That is a classic sign that you have too much grease! I have several pivots on my old 5-spot that just would not take grease from the zeros - and I even purchased new perks. I find it much better to pull pivot, grease up and put back.
 

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YRTRNRSHVY
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Mine is a DW model with threaded Zerk fittings. I hadn't pumped any grease in them in a year two and it would take none. No grease went past the o-rings. Turner seems to think it is ok to push grease past the o-rings, or "purge the system" as he calls it:

https://www.turnerbikes.com/tech/

"All dw-link models have threaded zerk fittings which can handle the extra pressure required to purge the system once in a while."

While I can see some benefit as it pushes out old grease, I have always tried to not do that when adding grease to a car or tractor suspension.

I plan on taking them out like you had to do. I'm sure they need some grease.
 

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I ran into this and my LBS gave me some advice that remediated the issue. Sometimes the rear needs to be be in a different position for things to line up in the various journal bearing for them to accept grease. Unhook the top end of your shock so you can move the rear end up and down. Try having the rear in different positions while greasing the fittings. It may take some trial and error to find the right position for each bearing to accept grease. Hope that makes sense.
 

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I ran into this and my LBS gave me some advice that remediated the issue. Sometimes the rear needs to be be in a different position for things to line up in the various journal bearing for them to accept grease. Unhook the top end of your shock so you can move the rear end up and down. Try having the rear in different positions while greasing the fittings. It may take some trial and error to find the right position for each bearing to accept grease. Hope that makes sense.
Good tip!
 

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I would take it apart fully and clean/relube all the pivots if you have the time.. the grease/dirt can kinda harden up and keep you from getting new lube from the zerk to the whole length of the pivot
 

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I have been using the Super Lube. It works well because it is low viscosity, through the zerk fittings.

If I am going to remove the lower DW I can put what ever grease in there that I want. Has anyone played with other grease? Like the thick Phil Woods waterproof stuff?

Any other greases that people have had positive experiences with?
 

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I answered my own question, I dis assembled the DW link, relubed it with Phil Woods and tightened everything back up to 25 Nm (my DW link is modified to accept that much torque)

First ride was great, quiet and suspension action was very smooth.

In the past, I have cleaned, and then reassembled dry, and let the grease work its way in. Prelubing is definitely better.
 
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