Yes - it is the initial lube and I find it lasts for many mikes before you need to relube. No need to lube a new chain IMHO.
Grease on new chain
New Shimano chains are covered in a greasy, sticky film, kinda like a wax, and I was wondering if this is proper chain wax or just something the use as a protective film. In other words: Is it okay to just leave this film on as chain lubricant or should you wipe it off and put some oil on instead when putting on a new chain?
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I'm told it's cosmoline. I remove it as much as possible with degreaser then apply normal chain lube. I tried leaving it on before and my chain became covered in thick gunk.
I currently have SRAM drivetrains though and their chains don't come packaged in that stuff.
I currently have SRAM drivetrains though and their chains don't come packaged in that stuff.
The last couple of Shimano chains I installed did not have the thick gunk on them that my previous chains did.
I always removed it and applied my preferred lube.
I always removed it and applied my preferred lube.
All the new chains I've bought have a similar factory assembly grease I'd describe it as. I left it on my chain once for a week. Chain was jumpy on the jockey wheels when back pedalling, like a stiff link effect.
That stuff attracted grime really quickly so ime it's better to fully degrease and start again with your usual chain lube.
That stuff attracted grime really quickly so ime it's better to fully degrease and start again with your usual chain lube.
You just want to remove the stickiness from the outside, leave it between the roller and the pins. It's great lube that will last longer than any drip lube on the market. If you don't clean the outside it can be a real mess. I use wd40 which won't be strong enough to remove the lube between the rollers and pins, but will clean the outside then evaporate away so you don't attack dirt. There's nothing wrong with completely removing it, it's just a waist. You'll get at least 3 quiet, efficient rides if you leave it between the rollers. Some riders get many more than 3 rides, just depends on your environment and mileage.
I just wipe down the chain to remove excess
Yeah, it gummed up my derailleur and chainring too. Sticky icky.All the new chains I've bought have a similar factory assembly grease I'd describe it as. I left it on my chain once for a week. Chain was jumpy on the jockey wheels when back pedalling, like a stiff link effect.
That stuff attracted grime really quickly so ime it's better to fully degrease and start again with your usual chain lube.
You want cosmoline off of there ASAP before you run it. It makes for a nice 'seal' but it attracts and holds dirt and grit like crazy. It's protective coating for while in storage, not for while in use.
It depends on where you live, and what lube you are going to use next.
For example, if you live somewhere rainy, and you normally use an oil based lube, you will want to keep it on and start applying your choice of lubricating oil after your first ride.
If you live where it is dry and dusty and use a wax based drip lube, you will want to remove it from the surface while not removing it from inside your links before ever riding. So no soaking the chain in a jar of solvent, and no heavy saturation of spray on solvent. Either put degreaser on a rag and backspin the chain, or lightly spray on degreaser and wipe it off without letting it soak too long.
If you are a diehard crockpot waxer, then you will want to fully clean it all out with your choice of submersion or ultrasound and then cook in the wax to displace all the factory lube.
The one thing to avoid at all cost is cleaning/soaking out all the factory lube from inside the chain, and not having a way to force lube back into the insides of the links.
For example, if you live somewhere rainy, and you normally use an oil based lube, you will want to keep it on and start applying your choice of lubricating oil after your first ride.
If you live where it is dry and dusty and use a wax based drip lube, you will want to remove it from the surface while not removing it from inside your links before ever riding. So no soaking the chain in a jar of solvent, and no heavy saturation of spray on solvent. Either put degreaser on a rag and backspin the chain, or lightly spray on degreaser and wipe it off without letting it soak too long.
If you are a diehard crockpot waxer, then you will want to fully clean it all out with your choice of submersion or ultrasound and then cook in the wax to displace all the factory lube.
The one thing to avoid at all cost is cleaning/soaking out all the factory lube from inside the chain, and not having a way to force lube back into the insides of the links.
Like said above. I wipe off the outer plates with a towel/rag. No solvent so the assembly grease stays on the pins and rollers. That works for my dry conditions of hardpack with some loose. Wipe the chain with a dry cloth after rides if needed. I put a drop of chainsaw oil on the rollers periodically only.
In summary, wipe it off asap, only wipe off the outside of the chain, add lube to it, use WD 40 to clean it, clean it without any degreaser, don't wipe it off. I think that covers it. Any questions?
Man, that's like getting chain maintenance instructions from the White House...In summary, wipe it off asap, only wipe off the outside of the chain, add lube to it, use WD 40 to clean it, clean it without any degreaser, don't wipe it off. I think that covers it. Any questions?
The root of the problem is that there's a chain.In summary, wipe it off asap, only wipe off the outside of the chain, add lube to it, use WD 40 to clean it, clean it without any degreaser, don't wipe it off. I think that covers it. Any questions?
So, just run chain-less. Sorted!The root of the problem is that there's a chain.
BOOM! Done.So, just run chain-less. Sorted!
/end thread
Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using Tapatalk
Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using Tapatalk
Belt drive FTW!!!!!So, just run chain-less. Sorted!
/end thread
its lube/rust protection. excessively put onto the whole chain.New Shimano chains are covered in a greasy, sticky film, kinda like a wax, and I was wondering if this is proper chain wax or just something the use as a protective film. In other words: Is it okay to just leave this film on as chain lubricant or should you wipe it off and put some oil on instead when putting on a new chain?
take a microfiber towel and generously soak it with IPA, wipe the chain down to remove excess from the plates.
when you can feel clean, non tacky chain plates, then you can stop.
the IPA evaporates very quickly and doesnt disturb what is in the rollers.
ride your bike, knowing that the inner side of the chain plates will put this gunk all over your cassette, chainring and jockey wheels.
clean them after every ride with a rag and IPA until you notice little build up occurring.
the sandy grit this stuff accumulates is so damaging to your drive train, its not funny!!!
when you stop noticing it accumulating then you know that its time to add chain lube
Note: professional teams clean these chains completely and put their favorite product on from the start.
i switched to muc off ceramic dry. it has been awesome!!
this is a water based formula that washes out with a hose
you can use a touch of detergent or non-wax car wash soap for a bit more cleaning power.
i run the chain between two scrub brushes while pedaling backward. or scrub the lower section a bit at a time followed by a rinse with the hose. this will clean the grit out and off the chain, jockey wheels, chain ring and cassette.
if you can hear grit in the chain when turning the cranks on a stand. just wash again until clean.
add one drop of the muc off to each roller. works best when the chain is wet as the liquid disperses into the roller and pin.
after applying muc off over a section of the chain, i sometimes spray over it again with IPA. the solvent helps the lube penetrate the rollers. this helps a lot on a new chain as the existing stuff resists taking up the muc off. (just being fussy)
after a while, you will notice that your chain will be almost void of all lube after a wash, but also void of grit and crap that damages your drivetrain. you will see that application of new lubricant penetrates easily and quickly into the rollers.
i usually clean my chain after every couple three rides. this only takes a few minutes and you dont have to wet the whole bike, just the chain and cassette area. I try to limit soaking the hub as much as i can.
let the lubricant's water evaporate out while you drive out to the trail.
my bike did over 1000 miles this summer and my chains have shown very little wear. it costs a lot of money to replace a cassette, chain and chain ring. so you might as well invest a few minutes time here and there and keep a cleaner better functioning bike.
you know you want to change a chain out eventually. why destroy the system with a badly worn chain before dropping on the new one??? So i highly recommend to purchase a second or third chain. after this one runs out of factory lube and has a month or so on it, you will want to switch it out and break in the next new chain. this way, you wear two chains into the drivetrain over time. This prevents a poorly wearing chain from damaging the drivetrain. so that later, even if you put on a new chain, it wants to skip, shift poorly, etc.
Remember:
*keep crap off the disc brakes - always wipe your rotors with ipa and clean paper towel after every wash
*brakes will squeal a little till they dry out. try gentle pressure to build a little heat and dry them if riding immediately after.
*let the bike dry in the sun to prevent rusty bearings etc. - dont wash and then bury it in a damp garage
Normally I'd say don't waste beer but IPAs are gross so go ahead and douse your chain with it.
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