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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Im planning to build a wheel set for my Salsa Vaya (disc brakes). I use it for everything from road to busted city streets to dirt roads to "I wonder were that trail goes?" I don't do any loaded touring. I weigh 195-210lbs, but have never broken a spoke. I currently run either Marathon Supreme 42s or Bontrager XR1 1.9s.

I'm looking for the lightest reliable wheel set. I want to do it once and do it right. Bonus points If something is "easier to build with."

So far I have a 28h dt 240s front hub, but everything else is fair game. I have talked myself up to another dt 240s hub for the rear, HED belgium plus rims, cx ray spokes. What else should I be considering? What spokes and spoke counts f/r?

Thanks!
#springfever
#monstercross
 

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Chris Bling
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If it was me, I would be running 32 spoke rims and hubs. That doesnt help you much as you already have a 28 hole hub. The 4 extra spokes you gain from 28 to 32 will do more for your ride than the small weight savings ever could.

Velocity has some pretty nice looking gravel rims.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the replies guys. The advice/research I got early on led me to 28/28h, so if needed I can run a heavier spoke I suppose(?)

Do the pacentis only come with a silver brake track? (Seems like it) I'll look into the velocity blunts (I had been considering the a23).

How about the stans arch or something from light bicycle?

Any specific reason I'd take any of these over the HED Belgium Plus?
 

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Arch EX is what you would use on a full blown mountain bike, I wouldn't use those unless u were gonna use them on your XC bike too.

Crest would be better than Arch EX for a gravel grinder I would think, but if that's what the bike is then why not Alpha 340 disc which is also rated for cyclocross.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Those ailerons look interesting but not much out there on them yet. I'm leaning towards the Hed Belgium plus because of its reputation for stiffness and quality, or the light bicycle u shaped road rims that are 45mm deep and 24.5 mm wide. They're actually pretty close to the Heds in weight because of the extra depth but might look odd on a steel vaya! Which moves me to the lb hookless mtb rims, which are nice and wide, but it looks like they recommend staying below 40 psi.

Any thoughts on why id want one or the other?

Thanks again for your help. This will be my first non-stock wheelset, so I feel like I'm waffling about things that would be obvious if I'd done this before, ridden more rims.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Won a gift card to a local bike shop at work (!), so I used it to by the HED Belgium Plus rims (28/28). Also read this great thread on Velocipede.

I was thinking about cx ray spokes since that's what HED uses on its stallion build (also 28/28). I've been reading that some people go 3x on the drive side and 2x on the ND side, or even use a beefier spoke on the drive side. Think any of that is appropriate for me?

Thanks again!
 

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Won a gift card to a local bike shop at work (!), so I used it to by the HED Belgium Plus rims (28/28). Also read this great thread on Velocipede.

I was thinking about cx ray spokes since that's what HED uses on its stallion build (also 28/28). I've been reading that some people go 3x on the drive side and 2x on the ND side, or even use a beefier spoke on the drive side. Think any of that is appropriate for me?

Thanks again!
Who is building your wheels? I love CX-Rays, but they are not easy for a novice builder, nor is mixing spoke thicknesses.

For a rim brake wheel I would use the 3Xds/2Xnds, but not with disc brakes.
3X both sides is fine. Reliable and proven.

As an experienced wheelbuilder I would (and do) lace my own wheel 2Xds/3Xnds (rear, and the opposite on the front). Slightly increases the driveside spoke bracing angle and may transfer more of the torque load to the lower stressed NDS spokes. Mainly I do it because I can.
Again, not easy for a novice builder. Mixed cross lacing can be confusing.

I am looking at the Velocity Aileron for my next build.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I was planning to build them myself (unless I chicken out). Would you recommend 3x/3x in the back then since I'm not a pro? I've heard the 3x doesn't work for some 28h rim/hub combos. Will it work with my 240s/belgium plus combo? Is there a way for me to check somehow?

My local shop just said to go 2x/2x.

Thanks!
 

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Chris Bling
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I was planning to build them myself (unless I chicken out). Would you recommend 3x/3x in the back then since I'm not a pro? I've heard the 3x doesn't work for some 28h rim/hub combos. Will it work with my 240s/belgium plus combo? Is there a way for me to check somehow?

My local shop just said to go 2x/2x.

Thanks!
2x will suit your build just fine. and it will provide a slightly laterally stiffer wheel as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
2x will suit your build just fine. and it will provide a slightly laterally stiffer wheel as well.
What spokes would you recommend for me dustyduke22? I think I've decided to have them built at a local shop. Their initial recommendation was dt competitions, but I'd like to go a little lighter if possible.

It seems like everyone I ask or everywhere I look has a different recommendation (sometimes varying wildly)
 

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Chris Bling
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What spokes would you recommend for me dustyduke22? I think I've decided to have them built at a local shop. Their initial recommendation was dt competitions, but I'd like to go a little lighter if possible.

It seems like everyone I ask or everywhere I look has a different recommendation (sometimes varying wildly)
I prefer to build with Sapim spokes because you get more value for your money. A comparable spoke to the DT comps are the Sapim Race. If you want to go lighter, check out the D-Light spokes. Then there are always the CX-Rays, but they are 3 bucks a spoke.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I'm all about the cx rays if they'll work for me. I've been fantasizing about new wheels for long enough, so I don't want to go 1/2 or 3/4 way there!

I was at the bike shop picking up my rims and the guy was like, "you better go double butted with these too, don't cheap out and get champs." Lol. Cost/value is all relative I suppose.
 

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I'm all about the cx rays if they'll work for me. I've been fantasizing about new wheels for long enough, so I don't want to go 1/2 or 3/4 way there!

I was at the bike shop picking up my rims and the guy was like, "you better go double butted with these too, don't cheap out and get champs." Lol. Cost/value is all relative I suppose.
The CX-Rays will work. Plenty strong enough.
I would use them for all my wheels if I could afford it.
Just be sure your builder is willing to use them.
 

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As an experienced wheelbuilder I would (and do) lace my own wheel 2Xds/3Xnds (rear, and the opposite on the front). Slightly increases the driveside spoke bracing angle and may transfer more of the torque load to the lower stressed NDS spokes. Mainly I do it because I can.
Again, not easy for a novice builder. Mixed cross lacing can be confusing.

I am looking at the Velocity Aileron for my next build.
Looks like I am going to build this wheelset for my road/gravel/adventure bike sooner than expected.

Aileron rims (28 hole)
WTB LaserDisc Lite hubs (from a little used 26" wheelset)
Sapim Laser spokes (CX-Rays cost 3.5 times more)
Likely laced 1X/2X front (L/R), 3X/2X rear (L/R)
Based on claimed weights of rims and spokes should come in around 1650g
 

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I've actually been thinking about this more since I have been in 2 gravel road races this year so far.

Currently I'm running Arch EX set with Race Kings 2.2 tubeless.

If I got a set of Crests that would drop 190g, and run a set of Kenda Kwicks at 330g each that would save me a total 810g on rotational weight! I should def feel that on climbs!
 

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I'd go Stan's Alpha 400 (heavier duty than the 340) or Iron Cross.
As the industry is right now for what you want I'd run a Vittoria XN on an Iron Cross set up tubeless. Ideally I'd run a Tubeless specific (TNT) Vittoria XN, (or some other tubeless file tread pattern) on an Alpha 340 or 400 rim, however no tubeless file tread/semi-slick tire exists so if you want to run that tire you have to use the Iron Cross wheels (which are designed to run tubeless with non-tubeless tires).
I'm currently running Alpha 340's for what you describe and am using Vittoria XG TNT (tubeless specific) tires. I can run pressures from 30-80 depending on terrain and it's pretty awesome.
 
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