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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got it yesterday & put it on today. The install was a lot easier then I tought it would be. Everything went pretty smooth, other then having to remove everything after I installed it only to recut the steerer tube. My first cut was made so I had about 9", way to long. I went down to 8-1/2".
First thing I noticed was that I needed to buy a shock pump, which I did. Then after I pumped it up to 125psi I took it out for a quick spin. The difference between my old J1 & this is like night & day. The R7 soaks everything up right down to a small curb. It feels a little bouncy still, but I have to play with the rebound adjustments to fix that. As for sag, well I have very little when I sit on the bike, it feels extremly firm while sitting, but once I ride over something it is smooth & soft. Just an added bonus to this fork is my bikes weight was 28.5lbs before & now it is down to 25lbs, the J1 was an anchor. Well for now my build is done for awhile.

Anyone know how long the break in period is?

Oh Yeah 1 more question I have is, does anybody have any suggestions on where or how to run the brake cable or is the way I ran it ok?

Thanks for all the help in choosing a fork.:thumbsup:





 

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I think it would look cleaner if you route the brake line behind the crown on the right, over the reverse arch and down to the caliper....or just straight down...
 

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crisillo said:
I think it would look cleaner if you route the brake line behind the crown on the right, over the reverse arch and down to the caliper....or just straight down...
Agreed. That cable routing is crying to be improved - not just for looks, but it will help performance too (by shortening the overall length). Something along the lines of one of these guys (or just a simple zip-tie) on the left stanchion would work great. On my Fox, my cable attaches to a guide on the front top of the LH stanchion, and then winds inside the fork leg to the brake (if I didn't explain that very well, there's a "Front Shot" pic in my user gallery...). That's just one more option in addition to crisillo's good ideas... That Manitou reverse arch is funky to deal with.

Other than that; your build looks pretty slick! Nice work!

Cheers, Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I know it looks messy upfront, but I cant really do to much better for the rear brake cables or derialleur cables. I will attempt to clean it up with the suggestions you guys gave me & let you know how it goes.:thumbsup:
 

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I think the rest of your cables look fine. The only other thing I was going to point out about the front brake cable the way you have it now is that it could snag something on the trail the way it is currently wrapping around the outside of your stanchion (near the brake).

However you choose to reroute it, look to go either all just behind & down the stanchion (like crisillo said) or if you drop the cable in front, wrap inside & around the back of the stanchion. Hope that makes sense!

Cheers, Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Chris130 said:
I think the rest of your cables look fine. The only other thing I was going to point out about the front brake cable the way you have it now is that it could snag something on the trail the way it is currently wrapping around the outside of your stanchion (near the brake).

However you choose to reroute it, look to go either all just behind & down the stanchion (like crisillo said) or if you drop the cable in front, wrap inside & around the back of the stanchion. Hope that makes sense!

Cheers, Chris
I think I am going to try Crisillo way, bring it down to the right stanchion then over the arch & down to the caliper. I didn't even notice that it looked so bad before you guys mentioned it.
 

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Just out of curiosity, did you press a new bearing race on the steerer tube? Looking at one of your photos it looks like your lower headset bearing is hanging low. Kind of hard to tell from though, could just be the picture. Anyway, looks great! The rear facing arch on Manitou's look really clean. --Mark
 

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marks_bike said:
Just out of curiosity, did you press a new bearing race on the steerer tube? Looking at one of your photos it looks like your lower headset bearing is hanging low. Kind of hard to tell from though, could just be the picture. Anyway, looks great! The rear facing arch on Manitou's look really clean. --Mark
I think so... you can see a bit of the crown race on pics 2, 4, and 5
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
marks_bike said:
Just out of curiosity, did you press a new bearing race on the steerer tube? Looking at one of your photos it looks like your lower headset bearing is hanging low. Kind of hard to tell from though, could just be the picture. Anyway, looks great! The rear facing arch on Manitou's look really clean. --Mark
yes, the silver lookingthingis the race.

Let me just ask this though. I put the race on & it fits snug but I keep seeing people say press it on? How would one press it on?
 

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I'm honestly not sure, I guess it would depend on the headset. In most cases it really isn't pressed on, it's hammered. For my headset (Cane Creek S-3) and most others the race is hammered on with a special tool that fits over the steerer. Like the Park tools CRS-1 crown race setting tool. It'll let you hammer on the race without damaging it. --Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well mine was not put on that way. Ijust sliped it off the old fork that came stock with the bike. Not really slipped off I had to use a screwdriver to remove the old one. I did use a new headset for this install though & I just dropped the race inplace.
 

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ironbike1 said:
Well mine was not put on that way. Ijust sliped it off the old fork that came stock with the bike. Not really slipped off I had to use a screwdriver to remove the old one. I did use a new headset for this install though & I just dropped the race inplace.
If you did it like that, I suppose the preload bolt was real hard to push down... or you needed (or will need) to readjust the headset a couple times while the race sets down....
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
flipnidaho said:
you don't want the cable touching the stanchions. It will rub the coating right off of it...
Ah, I didn't know that. I am going to reroute the cable this morning. I will post a pic of how I ended up doing it. I dont like the idea of dropping it straight down so I will bring it around the right of the crown.

Crisillo: that would explain why I ad to readjust the headset bolt like 5 times. Thanks this is all a learning process for me.
 

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ironbike1 said:
Ah, I didn't know that. I am going to reroute the cable this morning. I will post a pic of how I ended up doing it. I dont like the idea of dropping it straight down so I will bring it around the right of the crown.

Crisillo: that would explain why I ad to readjust the headset bolt like 5 times. Thanks this is all a learning process for me.
No worries, ironbike1! We all had our first fork installation at some point, don't sweat it, it seems like you did an awesome job! :thumbsup:

If you need some instructions for working around other parts of the bike, take a look at the repair section on the Park Tool website and don't hesitate to ask! :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
crisillo said:
No worries, ironbike1! We all had our first fork installation at some point, don't sweat it, it seems like you did an awesome job! :thumbsup:

If you need some instructions for working around other parts of the bike, take a look at the repair section on the Park Tool website and don't hesitate to ask! :thumbsup:
thanks for the advice. For some reason I felt like dropping the cable straight down would be worst then wrapping it around the fork leg. I think after looking at the bike & the cable I am going to try the straight down route, this way it has less bends.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
nice thanks. I have been searching but I couldn't find many threads. Maybe I didn't dig deep enough.

Here are a couple pics of the way I have the cable routed now. took the idea of dropping it straight down, only difference is I had to chage it alittle since I have a reverse arch. I brought the cable down behind the left leg & attached it using a guided zip tie, then brought it down to the brake. I haven't attached the brake yet, I want to make sure all is going to work.

I also noticed the errors in my ways, when I bought the XTR cables I let the LBS talk me out of running the cables in the housing all of the way to the brakes or derialleurs, they said to cut the housing & run nit through the guides. I think I am going to order more cable housing & run full housing & skip the guides that are on the bike?
 
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