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Hi Everybody! Long time lurker, first time poster. I generally only troll my local MTB club forums but I figured this is the place to ask questions with regards to my mojo seeing as how company reps hang out here and all.

The type of riding I do is pretty much an even split between racing 15-20 times a year and riding on fairly technical singletrack with just a smattering of small jumps and drops.

Anyway, first question. Did my frame come with a Lopes link? The link is anodized blue aluminum with the word "Lopes" facing forward from the seatpost. I didn't order one or anything I thought maybe they are installed by default on the '09s?

Question two: The frame came with some sort of lizard skin to protect the chainstay from chain slap, but isn't there some after market custom molded job that I can put on it? If so, what are they called and where do I get one? What about the clear paint protector that I've heard mentioned? My frame doesn't seem to have that. Is it something I purchase/apply on my own?

I have a Fox Float 32 RLC off my Intense F.R.O that I can install on this but I'd like something lighter. The fox weighs 1765g and I plan in sticking with a normal (9mm?) quick release. It seems like there aren't any light alternatives at exactly 140mm. Theres DT Swiss RTL and Manitou MRD something-other which are both 130mm and are pretty light. Then there's the DT Swiss EXC 150mm that's reasonably light.

Add to those options the possibility of running a 650b front wheel and I'm pretty much lost on which fork to get. I read somewhere that changing the geometry too much can hurt the bikes overall efficiency.
 

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bennymack said:
Hi Everybody! Long time lurker, first time poster. I generally only troll my local MTB club forums but I figured this is the place to ask questions with regards to my mojo seeing as how company reps hang out here and all.

The type of riding I do is pretty much an even split between racing 15-20 times a year and riding on fairly technical singletrack with just a smattering of small jumps and drops.
....
I have a Fox Float 32 RLC off my Intense F.R.O that I can install on this but I'd like something lighter. The fox weighs 1765g and I plan in sticking with a normal (9mm?) quick release. It seems like there aren't any light alternatives at exactly 140mm. Theres DT Swiss RTL and Manitou MRD something-other which are both 130mm and are pretty light. Then there's the DT Swiss EXC 150mm that's reasonably light.

Add to those options the possibility of running a 650b front wheel and I'm pretty much lost on which fork to get. I read somewhere that changing the geometry too much can hurt the bikes overall efficiency.
Hi and congratulations on your new Mojo!

Fork travel measurement affects cornering, brake dive, bob, and of course bump hit compliance. Choosing a fork travel is really personal and depends on what you are used to and what if anything you want to change in overall handing. So we'd really need to know more about those things to give more than our own preference.

For a more general perspective, the Mojo was designed by some very strong expert road and XC/AM riders for use with a 130mm fork for XC uses, with frame strength to use up to 160mm forks for more heavy rough trail and big jump AM type uses. By the time the Mojo was in production in 2006 all the higher quality long travel XC forks available were 140mm in travel, so that's what was established and remains the most popular fork travel for the Mojo. 130mm is really more ideal for XC racing having less bob and dive, and a steeper steering angle using the shorter fork produces very quick handling and increased cornering traction than longer travel forks.

It sounds like you race a lot so weight really matters, and one of the high end Manitou MRD 130 forks is very light and stiffer than the Fox RLC quick release forks. I think Hans, one of the owners of Ibis uses this fork on his bike.

I have a year of 650b riding experience on my Mojo over a very wide variety of trail conditions. A 650b front wheel with 26" rear wheel changes steering quickness about as much as adding 20mm to fork travel using a 26" wheel. Although rolling and traction is improved more than simply adding fork travel without increasing bob or brake dive. Adding fork travel alone actually reduces cornering traction, but there are other performance benefits for comfort, higher speed stability, and control in more severe conditions. Check in the 650b forum whether your fork of choice is usable with 650b. With your RLC, the 650b XC tires up to 2.2 size have plenty of clearance, 2.3 tires can scrub the crown if your spring fails, but won't rub otherwise.

You might consider a Talas 140 is using 650b in front. To lower to 120mm travel for low bob racing with steering quickness like a 130mm travel fork using 26" front wheel. And then raising to 140mm travel for more recreational riding and those jumps you like (the Mojo really likes to jump and raised my ability far over my previous 4 inch travel bike).

Regarding efficiency, changing fork travel or wheel size does change rider center over the pedals, so adjust your seated position forward slightly if raising the front end to maintain center over the pedals for maximum efficiency.
 

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If you have a Fox F RLC, why not try it first to get a feel for the bike's handling and climbing. Sounds like you have a current race machine - if it is a fully setup bike you have time to think out the fork options further. My guess is you will want something with adjustable travel as the bike is different and far more suited to steep climbing and very tight switchbacks with a lower fork height. Changing on the fly is going to be a priority for a racer I guess?
 

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I am XC race oreiented, but geting more into the "all mountain" riding.

I feel I have the best of both worlds, I went with the Fox 140 RLC and then dropped it 10mm to 130mm and installed a 130mm Terralogic cartidge.

To me as far as XC racing goes the Terralogic cartridge is the key. The only reason they stopped making it was that Specialized took the patent back from them. (although they will try to tell/sell you otherwise).

If you are not familiar with the Terralogic system it prevents any pedal induced bob and only reacts to input from bumps. No need to constantly be switching a lock out lever. The '06 and '07's seem to work better than the real early years. The 0'7's worked fantastic in my opinion.

And NO the new Fox X Series shocks do NOT work the same with the "Lockout blow off threashold" adjustment. I've had both.

You can get a shop to order you a cartridge (Fox is still allowed to "service and support" their previous models).

The Terralogic innards to me makes the difference of it being just an "all mountain" bike and now an every day XC race bike that does all mountain... like I said, the best of both worlds...

My opinion! (everybody has one!)
 

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I'm sure Fishboy will correct me if I'm mistaken, but I don't think the Mojo Fishboy kit protects the top of the chainstay, just the outside, and both sides of the dropout area.

On my bikes I typically use Cateye cloth handlebar tape to protect the chainstay. With the Mojo, I'm trying hockey friction tape with lots of overwrap.
 

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I feel I have the best of both worlds, I went with the Fox 140 RLC and then dropped it 10mm to 130mm and installed a 130mm Terralogic cartidge.
I am running the Talas RLC which is a great fork for changing height fast and easy and switch between 100/120/140 depending on conditions all the time. I wonder if they make a T logic cartridge that will fit ?
Also, is the T Logic cartridge adjustable iew set the amount of force to activate?
I have heard Push can tune standard lockout cartridge for Talas RLC to act very much like a T Logic cartridge. (I have a hard time beleiving that one.)
Thanks for info.
 
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