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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
went tubeless using g tape method shortly after buying bike, also drilled rims at same time. all has been good for about 130 miles, then today about 2 miles into ride noticed tire was low. pumped it up, didn't hear any air leaking. about .5 mile later tire was flat. pumped up and found air was leaking around at least 4 of the rim holes.

i think i saw on here where others had issues with stans breaking down the g tape. any solution for this? Front tire is fine so far but makes me wonder if it's about to go too.

Should i just go split tube?
 

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I would. Split tube is easy. Don't be discouraged. No foam or any of that garbage. Rim strip or your choice of tape for color.


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I tried the spilt tube, and everything went well except I could not get it to inflate. I even removed the valve stem put a tube over the air nozzle and gave it a full 135 PSI blast and it just leaked all over and never expanded it enough for it to even start to seat. After multiple tries I gave up and put the tube back in.
 

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Hybrid Leftys aren't real
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My latest helper discovery for split tube air up is a cheapo rubber rim strip. 24 or 26". Any bike shop will have scads of them, maybe costs a buck if they're gouging.

Stretch it around the tire, maybe twist it up some for additional tightening. Pushes the whole tire in tighter to the rim.

Been using it for the last few months when I can't get one to go, works every time!
 

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Laramie, Wyoming
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I don't believe the whole Stans breaking down Gorilla tape thing, and in 130 miles? It's totally unbelievable when between my wheels and wheels that I've helped others set up would equal many thousands of miles with absolutely no issues. The split tube method works but possibly isn't as reliable in extreme cold. If that's not a condition you ride in, have at it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
i ride down to about 5 f. Maybe i didn't use enough layer? i had 1 layer on each side with 2" and 1 layer of 4".

what is the issue with split tubes in cold?
 

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is buachail foighneach me
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went tubeless using g tape method shortly after buying bike, also drilled rims at same time. all has been good for about 130 miles, then today about 2 miles into ride noticed tire was low. pumped it up, didn't hear any air leaking. about .5 mile later tire was flat. pumped up and found air was leaking around at least 4 of the rim holes.

i think i saw on here where others had issues with stans breaking down the g tape. any solution for this? Front tire is fine so far but makes me wonder if it's about to go too.

Should i just go split tube?
You should sand the edges of the holes you drilled in the rims first. If it's leaking around 4 of the rim holes, that seems like more of a slap upside the head than a hint that the edges of the rim holes were cutting the tape when air pressure was applied to it.
 

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Hybrid Leftys aren't real
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The split tube method works but isn't as reliable in extreme cold.
Curious hold cold is extreme cold?

Had a bunch of folks in sub zero this winter, say, -5/10 and saw no issues.

Can't comprehend how either would have an advantage over the other based on temperature. The rest of the "system" is butyl rubber, and doesn't "fail", so as I said, curious what you're seeing.
 

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nothing to see here
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What size tube should I use for the split tube method for 80mm wide rims?

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Whilst I've still yet to receive my bike, I have already bought some 24" x 2.4-2.75 Q tubes from Jenson for my split tube conversion on the On-One Fatty's ~80mm rims. The tubes, when split, will measure approximately 130mm wide. Plenty wide enough for an 80mm rim.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
ok guys, more information that i just thought of. on thursday i rode and it was extreme slop mud. rear der and cassette were packed with mud. i'm not really an avid bike washer, but i did want to clean the drive train since chain was kind of jumpy and wasn't really shifting well from all the mud. I had the ride today, so yesterday i used simple green and a brush to clean stuff up. i sprayed quite a bit, so i'm sure there was a lot that got on the rim holes and then ate through the adhesive overnight. probably why it was 4 holes leaking, wheel was probably down in that position for the night and let it seep in.

I haven’t had to add air to either tire in over a month, and now this.

As muddy as bike was, it had to be cleaned though – now I’ll have to find another way if it gets that bad again. I wonder if rinsing with water after simple green would have helped. Or maybe I could put a bead of clear silicone around each hole? Any other method i should look into?

btw, i went ahead and ordered some 24" tubes becuase that would have eliminated this issue too. in the meantime, i plan to ride tuesday, so i went ahead and cleaned and re-taped wheel as i don't want to rely on tube for the thorney trails i ride.
 

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If all you have on your bike is mud, not sure why you would need simple green? Seems like a very strong solvent for mud, which is water soluble. I have never used any kind of soap when washing my bike. I don't ride in muddy conditions, and we don't have clay-like mud around here but I've certainly had my bike get as dirty as anyone's with whatever puddles might be out there and cleaned it up with just water.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
If all you have on your bike is mud, not sure why you would need simple green? Seems like a very strong solvent for mud, which is water soluble. I have never used any kind of soap when washing my bike. I don't ride in muddy conditions, and we don't have clay-like mud around here but I've certainly had my bike get as dirty as anyone's with whatever puddles might be out there and cleaned it up with just water.
We have clay based mud here. Simple green probably was overkill. I had heard of other people using it. Thought it sounded like a good idea. Guess not in this case as I'm sure that's what caused the issue
 

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Whilst I've still yet to receive my bike, I have already bought some 24" x 2.4-2.75 Q tubes from Jenson for my split tube conversion on the On-One Fatty's ~80mm rims. The tubes, when split, will measure approximately 130mm wide. Plenty wide enough for an 80mm rim.
I was having hard time finding wide 24" inch tubes with presta valves. Thanks for the link.

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The split tube method works but isn't as reliable in extreme cold. If that's not a condition you ride in, have at it.
I wouldn't go around spreading that rumor, as I can vouche for at least 5 riders who combined have more than 3000 miles on split tube. All of us being in Wisconsin, and this year alone our average temps rivaled Anchorage. Racers, commuters, Clydesdales, all with zero issues.

I personally needed to utilize foam to get my tires to seat with a floor pump, but 10 extra minutes of my time was worth saving a couple hundred pumps trying to seat the beads. I also find that the valve on Specialized tubes is very much superior to Q-tubes. YMMV
 

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Laramie, Wyoming
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Curious hold cold is extreme cold?

Had a bunch of folks in sub zero this winter, say, -5/10 and saw no issues.

Can't comprehend how either would have an advantage over the other based on temperature. The rest of the "system" is butyl rubber, and doesn't "fail", so as I said, curious what you're seeing.
Minus ten degrees isn't even close to extreme cold. I would categorize -5/-10 as fat bike quite cold.

Jons, 3000 miles is a fair amount of mileage but not even close to my mileage on gorilla tape tubeless.

As far as Anchorage temps, Anchorage isn't that cold.
 

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I've seen Simple Green strip off the color from a Chris King headset on a local clean freak's bike, he would wash down his road bike with the stuff after every ride, and it stripped off the color from his headset. It should be used with caution, and if it soaked into the holes and remained, it may be the real reason the adhesive failed on the gorilla tape, and thus the failure of your tubeless system. I would redo the system and stay away from Simple Green, plain dish soap in water should work fine to clean off mud.
 
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