[koenigderloewen]

I currently have a Trek 3900 with the stock InSync Grind 1 fork on it. I have heard bad things about this fork, but in all honesty it seems like it has done the job. However I am looking for a new fork. Was gonna try a Rock Shox Mag 21 and find a way to make v brakes work, but the LBS said it wouldn't work. Kinda wanna get a nicer fork to see what they are about, and mine is on its way down and i don't want to rebuild it.

So now the question: Would a 2005 Marzocchi Mx Pro with ETA be a good replacement fork? I could pick one up for a good deal, but I only weigh 110 pounds and am 5' 5". Would a better shock still make riding more comfortable, or would a cheap one still suit me?

Thanks
Tim

 

[Call_me_Clyde]

Great fork, but...

The Marzocchi MX pro is a great replacement for your current fork, but I think the Grind is between 60 and 85 mm travel. The MX Pro will be 100-120mm in travel, depending on the model. If I'm wrong about the Grind's travel, then you're good to go. You should notice a difference in performance with the Marzocchi, regardless of your weight or experience. DON'T buy a cheap replacement. If you buy a new fork, get a better one than what you're currently running.

Bob

 

[koenigderloewen]

yah the insync is a 70 mm. Would a difference such as that pose a problem in terms of handling and steering, or would it just be a little bit different that can be gotten used to? Should I look for something else along the lines of 70 mm of travel? From what I have found, it seems like the only forks at 70 mm are the starter ones. There are a few 80 mm, should i be looking at those instead?

 

[WeylessXPRider]

If anything the handling characteristics will be better than with the last fork, not to mention control will be much better.

 

[Ronnie]

What is really important to using a longer travel fork is the axle to crown or ride hight. The actual fork length from the bottom headset cup to the wheel axle. If the A to C is too high for the design of the frame your bike begins to feel like a chopper and tight turns in switchbacks become difficult. Your handling gets messed up. You can get a few short travel forks but they are usually the low end forks or the expensive racing forks like the Fox F80X ($775.00). I don't know your bike but Marzocchi forks are usually quite tall. I personally would not go over a 100mm. fork. You could also look at something like the Manitou Minute 2. Greenfish have 2005 models at a great price. Its a great fork. I'm eyeing one for my second bike which is also an 80mm. travel hardtail. Ijust can't justify the bucks as its my second bike and I don't ride it much.

Ronnie.

 

[anden]

One solution would be any dual air spring fork, such as RockShox Reba or Marzocchi Marathon SL.

On dual air spring forks, you can choose any combination of sag and spring rate. So you can get any axle-to-crown length you want at any spring rate you like.

If you for example would get an 85 or 100 mm Reba, then you can set it to 70 mm travel if you like and still get the spring rate you want, by simply adjusting the air pressures.

 

[Call_me_Clyde]

85105 mm

yah the insync is a 70 mm. Would a difference such as that pose a problem in terms of handling and steering, or would it just be a little bit different that can be gotten used to? Should I look for something else along the lines of 70 mm of travel? From what I have found, it seems like the only forks at 70 mm are the starter ones. There are a few 80 mm, should i be looking at those instead?

I would stick with a fork that is between 85 and 105 mm. You can find MX Comp and possibly MX pros in this range. What happens is the longer the fork, the more the front end gets lifted up. This change in geometry has an anverse effect on handling and steering as you described. It basically makes the bike more squirrely while cornering.

More important than travel is to measure the fork's axle to crown height. Some forks are taller than others and two forks with similar travel will have different effects on geometry. Keep the a/c height on your new fork as close as possible to your original fork.

Bob

 

[coop3422]

Another idea, and correct me if i'm wrong but you could go with one of rock shox u-turn's. I just got my recon in the mail 2day(dont even have my frame yet so its just sitting there) and when you turn the travel down to the lowest travel(the fork has 850130mm travel) it actually lowers the hight of the fork(yes it may seem obvious to the rest of you but ive never had anything besides a supercycle and a haro bmx before, lol) . anyways, kinda going off topic, my point was with a fork like this, u could lower the travel to fit your current bike, but down the road if you get a larger bike, this one can still be used. and it is just an all around goor fork too. you could go with a recon like mine or the tora series(got my recon for 200 new on ebay, tora's go for 150 or so on there new). Just my 2 cents, let me know if im wrong guys, clyde, i no you know lots. would you agree with me???

 

[coop3422]

Another idea, and correct me if i'm wrong but you could go with one of rock shox u-turn's. I just got my recon in the mail 2day(dont even have my frame yet so its just sitting there) and when you turn the travel down to the lowest travel(the fork has 850130mm travel) it actually lowers the hight of the fork(yes it may seem obvious to the rest of you but ive never had anything besides a supercycle and a haro bmx before, lol) . anyways, kinda going off topic, my point was with a fork like this, u could lower the travel to fit your current bike, but down the road if you get a larger bike, this one can still be used. and it is just an all around goor fork too. you could go with a recon like mine or the tora series(got my recon for 200 new on ebay, tora's go for 150 or so on there new). Just my 2 cents, let me know if im wrong guys, clyde, i no you know lots. would you agree with me???

I meant 85-130mm. I look at the keyboard while I type my bad