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Doesn't seem to be a lot out there. My plan is to have a wheel built on a single-speed hub with a 12x148 through axle.
Good Boost Single Speed Hub?
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Paul uses a thread-on freewheel, and Onyx are among the few.
general consensus around here is that a SS hub is kinda cool but generally not worth limiting yourself to one when a single cog and spacers do the same thing with no actual compromises. can you build a stronger wheel with a SS hub? kinda. Does it make you look hardcore and dedicated to The Singlespeed Life (tm)? You betcha. nothing wrong with that if that's what you want, but it does not have to be a limiting factor.
general consensus around here is that a SS hub is kinda cool but generally not worth limiting yourself to one when a single cog and spacers do the same thing with no actual compromises. can you build a stronger wheel with a SS hub? kinda. Does it make you look hardcore and dedicated to The Singlespeed Life (tm)? You betcha. nothing wrong with that if that's what you want, but it does not have to be a limiting factor.
I have the Paul boost disc word. TL;DR -> I've been happy with it. I would recommend it. The chain line is 55 mm.
The chain line is easy enough to deal with, but you do have to deal with it. Don't let that scare you off. And 55 mm is the new standard
. I posted in another thread about how I dealt with that. Really, I just rearranged the spacers on the BB cups and flipped the chain ring. YMMV.
I ended up with the Paul because it's inexpensive (< $200), boost (I needed a boost solution), and I had never played with a thread on freewheel system before. Note, I promptly negated any of the savings by buying a white industries free wheel. Again, I wanted to see what the fuss was all about. I'm happy with the freewheel too. Not sure I notice either the freewheel or the hub when riding. They work, I roll, I pedal, I go.
I was concerned about having the same number of gear ratios as I have with my other SS bikes - I have a bunch of cogs - and I didn't want to buy a bunch of freewheels. In the end this turned out to not be a problem I have a RF direct mount crank, and I had the original chain ring, my fat bike chainring, and I bought another steel chainring. The 3 chain rings and single freewheel give me a pretty wide range of gear ratios to play with. I find changing the chain ring about as difficult as changing cogs on a HG freehub. Also, DM steel chainrings cost about $20, which is about what a decent cog goes for. The jumps in gearing are bigger.
Neat things about the Paul
1. It spins good for a rear whee
2. It was easy to lace up to my existing rim and simple to tension. I'm not a wheel builder, so keeping this as simple as possible was a plus for me.
3. It has a true boost axle - not a shorter axle with caps. Not sure if this really matters, but it's something different compared to other offerings
4. It does look great, and makes me smile every time I look at, not because, as Mack suggests, I have SS or die tattooed on my a$$, but because it is just such a silly solution and works well.
Downsides:
1. dialing in the bearing preload is a bit niggly. Not that its difficult, just that I had to play with it a few times before I was happy
2. This is true of any freewheel solution - it can be a b%tch to get the freewheel off. You need to get the right tool, and the even the right tool can climb out, so you need to make sure it's bolted down, and you will need a lot of leverage.
3. others on MTBR have stated that aluminum on the nuts is a bit soft and easy to strip
4. There is no thousand points of engagement solution for a freewheel if that's your thing. You can get a WI with 72.
I have run both the hub and freewheel since mid 2018. A lot of miles during covid, no issues from either.
Whatever you decide, enjoy.
The chain line is easy enough to deal with, but you do have to deal with it. Don't let that scare you off. And 55 mm is the new standard
. I posted in another thread about how I dealt with that. Really, I just rearranged the spacers on the BB cups and flipped the chain ring. YMMV. I ended up with the Paul because it's inexpensive (< $200), boost (I needed a boost solution), and I had never played with a thread on freewheel system before. Note, I promptly negated any of the savings by buying a white industries free wheel. Again, I wanted to see what the fuss was all about. I'm happy with the freewheel too. Not sure I notice either the freewheel or the hub when riding. They work, I roll, I pedal, I go.
I was concerned about having the same number of gear ratios as I have with my other SS bikes - I have a bunch of cogs - and I didn't want to buy a bunch of freewheels. In the end this turned out to not be a problem I have a RF direct mount crank, and I had the original chain ring, my fat bike chainring, and I bought another steel chainring. The 3 chain rings and single freewheel give me a pretty wide range of gear ratios to play with. I find changing the chain ring about as difficult as changing cogs on a HG freehub. Also, DM steel chainrings cost about $20, which is about what a decent cog goes for. The jumps in gearing are bigger.
Neat things about the Paul
1. It spins good for a rear whee
2. It was easy to lace up to my existing rim and simple to tension. I'm not a wheel builder, so keeping this as simple as possible was a plus for me.
3. It has a true boost axle - not a shorter axle with caps. Not sure if this really matters, but it's something different compared to other offerings
4. It does look great, and makes me smile every time I look at, not because, as Mack suggests, I have SS or die tattooed on my a$$, but because it is just such a silly solution and works well.
Downsides:
1. dialing in the bearing preload is a bit niggly. Not that its difficult, just that I had to play with it a few times before I was happy
2. This is true of any freewheel solution - it can be a b%tch to get the freewheel off. You need to get the right tool, and the even the right tool can climb out, so you need to make sure it's bolted down, and you will need a lot of leverage.
3. others on MTBR have stated that aluminum on the nuts is a bit soft and easy to strip
4. There is no thousand points of engagement solution for a freewheel if that's your thing. You can get a WI with 72.
I have run both the hub and freewheel since mid 2018. A lot of miles during covid, no issues from either.
Whatever you decide, enjoy.
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I’ve run freewheels on BMX bikes and on MTBs with Surly hubs and Paul hubs. I’d never go back to that on purpose.
1) if you don’t have a bench vise and patience, removing freewheels sux. And even with a vise and the proper tool.
2) spacing. So much easier if you can add/remove spacers on a freehub. Especially a regular old shimano HG freehub.
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1) if you don’t have a bench vise and patience, removing freewheels sux. And even with a vise and the proper tool.
2) spacing. So much easier if you can add/remove spacers on a freehub. Especially a regular old shimano HG freehub.
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Thank you for your detailed reply. Definitely a lot there to digest. I also have looked at that hub and I confess I had no idea what a freewheel was. I actually have a couple of boost rear wheels, one a very nice Industry 9 Enduro with a Hydra hub that I replaced with an Onyx-hubbed wheel on my Solace Cycles OM-2P. I used a Single Speed Onyx hub for that bike because it's a Pinion/Belt drive and my understanding is that single speed wheels are stronger because they don't require any dishing. I use this bike for bikepacking so it carries a lot of extra weight most of the time.I have the Paul boost disc word. TL;DR -> I've been happy with it. I would recommend it. The chain line is 55 mm.
The chain line is easy enough to deal with, but you do have to deal with it. Don't let that scare you off. And 55 mm is the new standard
I ended up with the Paul because it's inexpensive (< $200), boost (I needed a boost solution), and I had never played with a thread on freewheel system before. Note, I promptly negated any of the savings by buying a white industries free wheel. Again, I wanted to see what the fuss was all about. I'm happy with the freewheel too. Not sure I notice either the freewheel or the hub when riding. They work, I roll, I pedal, I go.
I was concerned about having the same number of gear ratios as I have with my other SS bikes - I have a bunch of cogs - and I didn't want to buy a bunch of freewheels. In the end this turned out to not be a problem I have a RF direct mount crank, and I had the original chain ring, my fat bike chainring, and I bought another steel chainring. The 3 chain rings and single freewheel give me a pretty wide range of gear ratios to play with. I find changing the chain ring about as difficult as changing cogs on a HG freehub. Also, DM steel chainrings cost about $20, which is about what a decent cog goes for. The jumps in gearing are bigger.
Neat things about the Paul
1. It spins good for a rear whee
2. It was easy to lace up to my existing rim and simple to tension. I'm not a wheel builder, so keeping this as simple as possible was a plus for me.
3. It has a true boost axle - not a shorter axle with caps. Not sure if this really matters, but it's something different compared to other offerings
4. It does look great, and makes me smile every time I look at, not because, as Mack suggests, I have SS or die tattooed on my a$$, but because it is just such a silly solution and works well.
Downsides:
1. dialing in the bearing preload is a bit niggly. Not that its difficult, just that I had to play with it a few times before I was happy
2. This is true of any freewheel solution - it can be a b%tch to get the freewheel off. You need to get the right tool, and the even the right tool can climb out, so you need to make sure it's bolted down, and you will need a lot of leverage.
3. others on MTBR have stated that aluminum on the nuts is a bit soft and easy to strip
4. There is no thousand points of engagement solution for a freewheel if that's your thing. You can get a WI with 72.
I have run both the hub and freewheel since mid 2018. A lot of miles during covid, no issues from either.
Whatever you decide, enjoy.
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1,883 Posts
As several have posted above, not many options for a 148mm SS hub. I have used hubs with freewheels and still have my White Industry ENO hub and a set of Paul hubs. Good, solid hubs and never gave me a problem. The thing to keep in mind with freewheels, serious bulletproof freewheels are far and few and at the time when I used them, it pretty much meant only White Industries. Like CCSS mentioned above, I would never go back for the reasons he gave and also unlike where I can buy a relatively cheap Surly stainless cog that will last forever, you are looking at $100+ for a second freewheel.
I was looking for a 148mm SS hub myself this past Spring and was considering Chris King, I9 Hydra and Onyx, with all three being great hubs and having to use spacers on two of them not really an issue for me. I know in theory that a SS hub will be stronger, but considering what I have done to the wheels on my 1x11 geared Honzo the last couple years, I do not worry about that. Not to mention the vast majority of people I see with bikes seriously loaded down for bike backing are running gears and believe that a good build with the right parts has more of an impact on durability.
I have a set of CK hubs that I have been running for a long time, already own the shop tools to service them, and they have been solid and problem free. I like how easy the I9 Hydra is to service, but ultimately end up going with an Onyx Classic. I thought that the lack of noise would be pretty cool....and it has been sweet. I also ordered it as a SS, because given the option, I prefer the clean looks of a SS hub.
I was looking for a 148mm SS hub myself this past Spring and was considering Chris King, I9 Hydra and Onyx, with all three being great hubs and having to use spacers on two of them not really an issue for me. I know in theory that a SS hub will be stronger, but considering what I have done to the wheels on my 1x11 geared Honzo the last couple years, I do not worry about that. Not to mention the vast majority of people I see with bikes seriously loaded down for bike backing are running gears and believe that a good build with the right parts has more of an impact on durability.
I have a set of CK hubs that I have been running for a long time, already own the shop tools to service them, and they have been solid and problem free. I like how easy the I9 Hydra is to service, but ultimately end up going with an Onyx Classic. I thought that the lack of noise would be pretty cool....and it has been sweet. I also ordered it as a SS, because given the option, I prefer the clean looks of a SS hub.
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I have the same setup. Its awesome!
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I think you all have convinced me to go with a regular hub with spacers. I'll go with my Industry 9 Enduro wheel which has one main advantage: I have it.
But I have to say, I really like my Onyx single speed hub.
? Just put an HG on a hydra and be done with it.
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Onyx has done one offs in the past however, a boost with spacers and a cog works just dandy and the side benny is they are actually not vaporware.
FWIW Hadley makes a boost SS hub. Chris King no longer offers a dedicated SS hub of any persuasion. I have older CK SS hubs. If a bike is a dedicated SS, running the correct hub seems like a no brainer. It will build a marginally stronger wheel and function tighter due to less spacers.
Availability and re-purposing the hub to another bike are the best reasons to run a spacer kit on a regular hub.
Availability and re-purposing the hub to another bike are the best reasons to run a spacer kit on a regular hub.
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258 Posts
Also on a regular old hydra boost hub. I would personally run an SS hub, more cost than benefit. If I had to replace it today I'd take a hard look at the Onyx Vesper hubs.
Also, gnerally, I'm just done with any hub that doesnt have a press in end cap. threaded end caps seem to be a major source of frustration for me.
Also, gnerally, I'm just done with any hub that doesnt have a press in end cap. threaded end caps seem to be a major source of frustration for me.
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Interestlingly, Onyx does use a threaded cap with a lock screw that sets the cap after setting preload. The sorted the drama well.
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I've read a lot of stories that the Vespers don't hold up to clydesdales or strong riders very well, they can slip or break. If you're a reasonably strong SSer I'd recommend the standard Onyx hub.
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As one that owns the earlier hub, I can say they are durable enough to tolerate some amazing loads. No failures ever but there are some folks that just have the luck, good or bad.
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