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Discussion Starter #1
I seem to have a problem with the drivetrian.(prophet 1000) No matter what I do when I hit real sharp stutter bumps or a hard climb with ruts or rocks it skips out of gears. I cant seem to ride hard over rough or hard climbs.(seem like there must be a ghost on my bike! who would like a different gear.) I have had three brand knew drive train's and 5 chains in 8 month's.Tried 5 different mechanics just to make sure it wasn't a mech. missing a problem. I have totally given up on this bike. The rep doesn't want anything to do with this situation anymore. It sucks when you spend $2600 + I added a demax rear rim to stiffen up all the lack of rigidness in the rear end. Not to mention the problem with the rear hub loosenint up every 3weeks. Canonndale did send me knew rear wheel and hub but it's junk. I changed the drive train over to all shimano XT didn't fix the problem now I'm back to all scram again except the brakes. I was a die hard klein man until trek let them die. So I thought cannodale was impoved from the early 90's from the cheap tin can feeling bike and crack prone problems. Looks like I was wrong?
 

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Cable housing?

It sounds like you have an odd case here. Are you positive that there is not varying(SP?) tension on the cable as the swingarm arcs through it's travel?


What does the rep say? Do you need to go with the thru-axle swingarm to add stiffness? How heavy are you?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The bike shop called cannondale tech. service and they said to talk to the rep and see about getting me a new bike? But I think there is to much play in the rear triangle. I have noticed that the rear triangle is not competely centered on the seat tube. But to every mechanic and rep it is a mystery. but I have waited 8 months and many a bike rides trying to solve the problem. I have spent alot of time going from the trails and back to bike shop.
You cant get it to happen just ridding around the bike shop. My weight is 180lbs when I can ride. But since this I added a some weight. I do have a klein adroit and giant nrs but the giant has to much flex in the rear end so I gave it my wife and bought the prophet.
I do have to admit that I have alot more power in legs than most riders that why I alway rode kleins. I have tried other bikes but they either had to much flex or I broke them. Klein has been the bike I haven't broke. The kleins before trek bought them. I am a rider that is a cross breed between cross coutry and free ride. I don't huke 13' drops but I do lauch of 5' at 40mph with out slowing down. I have a need for speed but not to jump off things that will push my comfort level. thanks for your response.
 

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Yes no fun when you spend all your spare time trying to sort this problem out.

What about using a chain guide.
If you use a 32 tooth and a 11-34 cassette you will get plenty of gear range.
I used this cobo on my hardtail and it was good. Especially when other riders are dropping chains.
 

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I too have the same problem with my Propet 1000. My LBS has made serveral adjustment and so have I but the bike will skip gears on hard climbs. My bike is still new so I haven't started replacing parts yet. I'm 6' 3" and 240 lbs. if that matters.
 

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jtrider said:
I too have the same problem with my Propet 1000. My LBS has made serveral adjustment and so have I but the bike will skip gears on hard climbs. My bike is still new so I haven't started replacing parts yet. I'm 6' 3" and 240 lbs. if that matters.
Me too. Ghost shifting due to that weird cable routing to the rear derailuer.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
gemini2000 said:
I'm not saying that that is norm but I have hit a few. On the average I do 17 mph average according to my computer. I hit alot of 3' and 4' drop's with out slowing down. I like the rush of one good hard lap. So I need a bike that can climb and jump. That why I don't have a free ride bike. I push myself hard and fast so I've had a lot of banged up knees and crashs trying to see where the problem is coming from. next thing you know I'm off the path just by doing a quick look.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
flyingkiwi said:
Yes no fun when you spend all your spare time trying to sort this problem out.

What about using a chain guide.
If you use a 32 tooth and a 11-34 cassette you will get plenty of gear range.
I used this cobo on my hardtail and it was good. Especially when other riders are dropping chains.
That is what I was going to try next but the bike said you've drop alot of $ and its still happening so they called cannodale. Plus knowing how unhappy and patient I've try to be. Not to mention the bike shop has spent a off its time =$ too.
 

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Time for a Gemini.

If you are serious about that size of drop/jump at speed, perhaps Gemini is in order. YOu can easily build one in the 33-36 lb range, and have the travel, geometry, and frame strength that you need.


Whatever you do, do not tell your rep that you are hitting 5' at 40. (kidding) (sort of)
 

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Think about the Prophet 4x

The 4x has a burlier front end, with the ISCG mounts. Do not forget about the Gemini.


Good luck working out your issues. I am sure that CAnnondale will take care of you.
 

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i felt your pain

i went through the same thing. back and forth from the trail to the shop for "adjustments." i had to let the wrench at the shop ride the bike after about my sixth return visit so they would know what i was going through. first they changed my chain with not much improvement. finally my rep just changed out the crankset for a new truvativ stylo (prophet 1000) and never a problem since. the shop told me the reps next step was to be a new frame due to possible mis-alignment. glad it never came to that! i feel for you brotha', it's really frustrating when you're on the baddest bike out there, and some crap like this is going on.
 

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trueride said:
have you tried a different routing?

My thought exactly. Myself and some friends have had ghost shifting problems on various full suspension bikes from poor cable routing. Make sure the housing never bends too tightly or gets pulled straight during the full suspension travel. Let the air out of the shock so you can cycle it through the full travel while watching the housing movement. Many full suspension designs require leaving the housing longer than seems right to avoid these problems. My 2004 Jekyll had lousy rear braking (Avid mechaicals) with the housing routed in the factory location. I found a new route for the housing and everything has been rosey since then. Hope this helps!
 

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im having the same trouble with my 600. they put on a new front mech and a new lx crankset. solved the proble for a while but my last ride it did it again. i can climb hills because when i do shift the chain jumps all around and cause a loss of momentum. took it to the shop and it was there for a month this summer. im going to have to bring it there agian when i get back from school
 

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I do have a klein adroit and giant nrs but the giant has to much flex in the rear end so I gave it my wife and bought the prophet.

No disrespect intended, but wasn't sacrificing your wife to the Giant a tad extreme?=:)
 

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After hearing about the crashes and the multiple drivetrains, my guess would be you banged the rear triangle.
Have you checked to see that the rear triangle isn't bent? They bend super easy (also fixed super easy, but you can't tell jst by eyeballng it) Had the same problem, ghost shifting in every gear anytime I pedaled up a climb. A decent bike mechanic should be able to fix this in about 10 minutes for about $5. (If that's it)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
9.8m/s/s said:
After hearing about the crashes and the multiple drivetrains, my guess would be you banged the rear triangle.
Have you checked to see that the rear triangle isn't bent? They bend super easy (also fixed super easy, but you can't tell jst by eyeballng it) Had the same problem, ghost shifting in every gear anytime I pedaled up a climb. A decent bike mechanic should be able to fix this in about 10 minutes for about $5. (If that's it)
That is something I noticed the day a got the bike was the rear triangle didn't look centered on the seat tube but I looked at other prophets and notice it on a couple others but some where centered so I figured it must not be a problem or they would all be centered. So never thought about it again. But now that this continues I think its the rear end was welded out of alingement from the get go. thanks for the advice.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
damion said:
The 4x has a burlier front end, with the ISCG mounts. Do not forget about the Gemini.


Good luck working out your issues. I am sure that CAnnondale will take care of you.
I would consider it if I lived in a mauntain area but I dont so for me to get the rush of a jump at speed I need a bike that pedels well. I don't like the rush of a high jump but the rush of tucking in it and gforces that come with maintaining a high speed ride and using all "g" forces in the jumps and hills and suspension to do the work for me. I used to race cross country and down hill so I like to have them both in a ride even though I lack having a good hill or mauntain in my back yard as I had in the past. So I don't think the free ride bike will give me the pedeling effiency I need where I ride. Thanks alot for your advice. I'm thinking I might go with a foes, inferno or a santa cruz, nomad. I've pretty much lost hope in the cannondale.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
damion said:
The 4x has a burlier front end, with the ISCG mounts. Do not forget about the Gemini.


Good luck working out your issues. I am sure that CAnnondale will take care of you.
Sorry about missing the 4x ? I have looked into it but I don't see anything saying the 4x is made stronger or am I missing it? ISCG that is when there mounts in the bottom bracket for chain guide?
 
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