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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just finished converting my front wheel (WTB Moto Raptor & Sun SOS wheel) to ghetto tubeless. So far so good. I am going ride the front this way for a few rides and then convert the rear if all is good. It was much easier than I thought it would be

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I took the bike for a quick spin around the neighborhood to test out the tire. Hit a bunch of curbs and rode down some stairs in my yard. Everything looks good:thumbsup: I was suprised how quickly the tires sealed up. Very little sealant weeped from the side walls or bead.

Are the Moto Raptors that came with the Atlas Sport wire or kevlar bead? I think they are wire bead becuase they were pretty hard to mount and the bead was pretty rigid.

I followed the instructions in those vids step for step. When I mounted the tire I inflated it first with out selant to make sure it would work before wasting some Stan's. After some playing around with my compressor I finally got it to inflate and the beads locked into the wheel. These non ust tires on non ust wheels locked so tight that I had to fuse a good amount of force to get the bead to dis-engage after I let the air out to add the Stan's.
 

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I was going to wait and do mine when I changed tires to something lighter, but I got bored and couldn't wait. I did the front about 3 weeks ago and the rear last week. The rear still has a slight leak, so I may need to reseat it again.

In my opinion, a compresor is a must for seating the tires, you might be able to get it with a floor pump, but why fight it, go to a gas station if you need to.

The stock tube weighed in between 0.17 and 0.18 kg (hanging scale). Total project knocked 0.22 kg (220 g) off of the bike. Almost 1/2 pound rotating weight. The stock velociraptors are heavy, the front at 0.82 kg and the rear at 0.81. I figure with some modest 600g tires and the ghetto tubeless will knock 600g total rotating weight from the bike. Not too shabby. I wish I could find some ultralight 20" tubes. That could possibly shave another 10-15g per wheel.

Alpine 550 - stock w/ Manitou R7 front fork

Before conversion 13.06 kg - 28.77 lbs
After ghetto tubless 12.84 kg - 28.28 lbs
 

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The White Jeff W
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Noob question. Can I go tubeless with the WTB Exi Wolf's that came on my Asta? It was sloppy & slick this weekend but I aired down to 25 or 30 PSI & they stuck like glue but the rear was flat when I got home, I assume from the extremely rocky stuff I was rolling over.
 

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Cuánto pesa?
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jeffw-13 said:
Noob question. Can I go tubeless with the WTB Exi Wolf's that came on my Asta? It was sloppy & slick this weekend but I aired down to 25 or 30 PSI & they stuck like glue but the rear was flat when I got home, I assume from the extremely rocky stuff I was rolling over.
No problem, just follow the directions and be patient while they seat/seal
 

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I don't wear a watch.
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You might want to also consider using Stan's yellow rim tape inside of the Ghetto tube dealy. It's a lot easier to do and even more of a weight reduction. I've been running my Asta this way for over 300 miles and it's been working great on the rear tire. The front has been converted to a Stan's rim because I trashed the wheel for reasons unrelated to the Stan's conversion. :D
 

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Non ghetto:
Do you want to try tubeless but don't want to deal with the investment. Stan's Tubeless System will convert your existing wheel set to tubeless using either standard or tubeless tires. Stan's offers two sealing points on the tire versus the other tubeless systems which use only the bead lock as their sealing point. This design allows you to successfully run lower tire pressure and gain traction. Never worry about another puncture flat again because of the self-sealing qualities of Stan's Tire and Rim Sealant.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
mrpercussive said:
i wonder how much weight i would save with tubeless seeing as the tubes i run weigh in at 465g a tube. Not too sure how well the wheels would hold air though seeing as there's a flatspot on my my rear rim... :(
For the Iggy or the Zone?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Jake Pay said:
Ride-on, you knocked around five ounces of rotational weight off that
You nailed it Jake. I weighed everything up this morning with the postal scale in the office and it work out to just under 5 oz of weight loss in the front wheel. I weighed the old 26" tube, a new 20" bmx tube same as the one I used on the tire, the scrap rubber from the 20" tube currently in the tire and 2 scoope fulls of selant. After I did all the math it work out to a net loss of 137.5 grams or 4.85 oz.:thumbsup: When I do the rear tire that will be a loss of over 1/2 lb of rotational weight from the wheels. When I get some lighter but still AM worthy tires it may get close to a pound or more total loss.

I am taking the bike out for it first real test tonight after work.
 

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bytesyz : how are you making the joint in the rim tape? Are you lapping the joint and if so how much? I am also assuming rim tape first and then puncturing the hole for the valve and clamping that down.

So effectively the tire seals against the rim tape AND against the sidewall of the wheel. Nice. Hadn't even thought of that method. My front is holding good but the back is still weeping. I may do this when I pull it and redo it.
 

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Crazed Country Rebel
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Jake Pay said:
Ride-on, you knocked around five ounces of rotational weight off that bad boy..


PART 1
PART 2
Those were great video's and really well done. I did this 2 months ago with a 2.4 Motoraptor. Unfortunately I got a small puncture at downieville that stans couldn't seal. Even after adding lots more sealant it didn't work. I'm back riding tubes.
 
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