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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, I've owned many hydros including old school Minis and M4s but my current bling X2s leave me wanting in max bite. Modulation is great but when I absolutely need to cease forward momentum it is lacking, for me. I've searched, but can't find anything distilled down to this issue.

What are people running in terms of non-OE pads? The brakes aren't spongey, don't need a bleed and nothing is soiled (other than my shorts when I can't stop).

I have a couple sets of raggedy Hayes that stop much better on the same bike with the same size rotors and *really* want these Hopes to perform.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Pix:
 

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Hmmm. Is that the Tech lever?
Maybe the older Mini lever with the Mini X2 Pro setup?
I'd start with the scotch-brite to the rotors followed by a light sanding of the pads.
If that doesn't help. New rotors and pads. Be ready to spend over $150 for that, unless you find a deal. My new Race X2s came with alloy backed pads. I don't know where I can buy those.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
egebhardt said:
Hmmm. Is that the Tech lever? Maybe the older Mini lever with the Mini X2 Pro setup? I'd start with the scotch-brite to the rotors followed by a light sanding of the pads. If that doesn't help. New rotors and pads. Be ready to spend over $150 for that, unless you find a deal. My new Race X2s came with alloy backed pads. I don't know where I can buy those.
I honestly don't know. Here's a slightly better image of the levers. They are the flip-flop style.
 

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Love the green ano.

First off do you have Organic or Sinterd pads? If organic get the sinterd, that will make a big difference, How old are the brakes? Possible a quick sandpaper job on the rotors and pads will help.

Also looks like you should add a couple of small washers in the rear caliper to get the entire pad braking on the rotor. In the photo you can see the brake pad is not completely grabbing the whole rotor.

THat might do it.
 

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I have the x2 as well. With being new it took a couple of good rides and heavy braking to get them to work very well. I also did some road riding and lightly dragged the brakes to get the pads to seat in. After some rides I had to adjust the reach and stroke alittle to get the feel i liked. Now they work great. Pull the front brake and I could go ass over elbows. I have the SS line on mine along with 180 front and 160 rear..
 

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29or6to4 said:
Also looks like you should add a couple of small washers in the rear caliper to get the entire pad braking on the rotor. In the photo you can see the brake pad is not completely grabbing the whole rotor.

THat might do it.
It's not unusual to get this kind of wear on new rotors/pads. All of my Hopes wear-in like this. As long as the correct adaptor mount is used for the rotor size, which is clearly the case from the picture, there's no need to add washers to move the caliper. Doing so on an otherwise correct set-up will lead to uneven pad wear and reduced performance.

The green ano is the Hope Team color, by the way. Hubs, brakes, stems, BBs, etc., are all to be found floating around on eBay, but it's not available as a retail colour option.
 

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Soup Hope brakes have nearly zero stopping power until really bedded in. I have the same brakes and hated them for the first 3-4 rides then they came around. I still have the Puros on the other bike and can say that the X2 are at least as powerful with great modulation in comparison. Go do some hill runs if you want to get the power out of the X2 a little quicker.
 

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I have the exact same setup as MI-29 and it took a long time (really long time) for the brakes to bed in correctly. Once they bed in, they're golden.

My pad scortch marks on my rotor are again, identical to MI-29. I can confirm that this burn in on the rotors is correct and that there is no need for small adjustments for pad contact to the rotor; it's just the way the brakes are.
 

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net wurker said:
MI-29er, that's a nice lookin' rig there! You got more pictures?

Thanks here ya go. The seat post I have on know is a set back. And the seat thats in the pic is a test ride seat, just haven't taken any new pics with the new gear on it yet.
 

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jkirkpatri said:
I have the exact same setup as MI-29 and it took a long time (really long time) for the brakes to bed in correctly. Once they bed in, they're golden.

My pad scortch marks on my rotor are again, identical to MI-29. I can confirm that this burn in on the rotors is correct and that there is no need for small adjustments for pad contact to the rotor; it's just the way the brakes are.

I agree with jkirkpatri.
 

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Shop on ebay!! I paid over 5 bills for the complete set as you see in the pictures above. I think the shop over seas Wiggles has good deals.

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/c/cycle/7/Brakes_-_Disc/

Just need to check exchange rates. I hope this helps??
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks everyone. The brakes have plenty of use on them but are not bedding in as expected for some reason. Great modulation but lacking in max "OMG" stopping power. I will try sanding the rotors/pads. If that doesn't work, sintered pads. Really a bummer because I'm a long time Hope fan going back to the old school 2-pc Minis and M4s which were always "set and forget" type brakes, por moi.

FWIW they are 185mm front and 160mm rear.
 
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