is your LBS getting them straight from Jamis? I really need a whole new set of bushings..along with the bolts. The goober that had the bike before me used the wrong size wrench and royally screwed up the bolts. My LBS didn't sound like they could easily track down and order a set. If yours can get them easily I'd like to get some contact info and order a set.
Gusto Cycles in Greer, SC ( only landmark: BMW Manufacturing ) 864/879-2164. Be sure to have your bike's S/N ( on BB shell ) and color ( off as that sounds ). Ask for Brad. You may even ask if they could drop ship to you. I kinda don't think they will, but it doesn't hurt to ask.
As far as I know, he's getting them from Jamis. I can't imagine any other source having all Jamis' S/N database.
Also I'm planning to make drawings of all bushings for future reference. There are some potential aftermarket bushings ( IGUS polymer bushings ) which I'd be interested in trying after this set craps out.
I recently installed IGUS bushings on my 2001 Dakar. I used the J series and they went in with out much of a problem. Nice tight fit, just used a clamp (one of the ones with a trigger to tighten it) and they slid right in. Don't know about the life expectancy on them yet but they were only about $20 for a set. I'll keep you updated with good or bad news.
Photo of bushing 'set' and info about IGUS bushings
Here is a photo of the full set I just ordered. Interesting, the shoulder bushings part numbers I could find on the internet. But I didn't find any alternate vendors.
Regarding the IGUS bushings, I got a full set free from the IGUS sales rep. some months ago. After receiving them, I thought they were the wrong ones, so I gave them away to one of the guys on this board. Now I realize they were probably the right ones. Dang!
I also asked the dealer ( Gusto Cycles ) why Jamis didn't offer torque values for the bolts since it is somewhat critical that they're not too tight nor loose. He didn't know why. So I'll probably use the values offered by Alibi in his post reply back in April.
you might realize the error of your ways when you saw the new set. Let me know if you want those back; they are still in the bag and ready to send, just say the word.
Those torque values I posted are straight from a Jamis tech sheet, so they should be good, except for your main pivot; it's a different design than the one I posted for. I would think that style would need at least 120 in-lbs.
I'm glad you asked, I was ready to post anyway.....
I had a little trouble, mostly with knocking out or pressing out the existing bushings. Try not to use a screwdriver or small punch. You really need a larger punch or drift, close to the o.d. of the bushing being driven out. I had a particularly hard time with the Horst link bushings. I bought a nylon bushing of the same o.d. and a bronze bushing about 1/4" larger in o.d. With a bolt, nut, and some fender washers, I used the nylon bushing to press directly on the bushing. The bronze bushing was used only as an oversize spacer so the bushing could pass inside it.
All bushings are in and now the rear suspension is very tight; I'm pretty happy with the results after a long ride Sat. and today. Use Alibi's torque list afterward. Don't forget the blue Loctite ( or equal ) on threaded components which came out of the bike; scrape of the old stuff. The new threaded parts have Loctite on them already.
One hint, The large countersunk allen-head screw ( second set from left in photo above ) is just the right o.d. to be used as a punch on one of the bushings. Either that same set or the set just to the right. Just keep that in mind. I threaded it back into the round stock, which it normally is threaded into, after installation. Then used it as a punch.
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