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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Currently my hardtail is completely overhauled except for the frame. I was toying with the thought of getting a full suspension frame next year.

With that being said, I'm curious about what you guys would recommend, given the parameters of my current setup.

With these stipulations, do you guys know of any frames that would fit the bill?

Preferred:
73mm BB shell
Black in color
500 dollars or less
No steel
Something other than 9mm QR for rear dropouts

Required:
Headset 1 1/8
Be suitable (geometry wise) with 120mm suspension fork

I don't plan on getting serious about this till Spring of 2011. But hey, I'd like to have a few ideas brewing in the mean time.

What do you think, guys?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
bad mechanic said:
Most 5" travel bikes will use a QR for the rear. Why do you need a through axle for the rear?
I don't. I was planning on upgrading the rear wheel in the near future, so if most viable frames in my price range were 15mm rear axle or whatever, I wanted to be aware so when I buy the new rear wheel, I can upgrade to the proper hub I need accordingly. Within the last week I upgraded the front to 20mm axle with a new front wheel, all while also getting a fork with 20mm axle dropouts. I like the system very much, so if there were frames available with 15mm or 20mm axles, I figured it wouldn't be a bad idea to upgrade to a system like that.

It's just while I also want to do the rear wheel, if I can get something a bit stronger while I'm at it, I mean... why not? So while I would sort of prefer a thicker axle in the back, I certainly don't need it. So if any frames show up 9mm QR or 15/20/whatever, I'm open to them. But if I have a toss up between two frames that are identical except thicker axle @ rear dropout, I'd probably choose that one.
 

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While a through axle is useful on a fork, it doesn't have nearly the same impact on the rear of a bike, since a bicycle's rear triangle is so much stiffer than a telescopic suspension fork. Think of it this way, how many rigid forks have through axles? Almost none, because they're not needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
bad mechanic said:
While a through axle is useful on a fork, it doesn't have nearly the same impact on the rear of a bike, since a bicycle's rear triangle is so much stiffer than a telescopic suspension fork. Think of it this way, how many rigid forks have through axles? Almost none, because they're not needed.
Hm, good point. Well, that makes a lot of sense. I'd still like to get a new rear wheel, but we'll see what happens. Spring is a long way off yet.

The Sette Flite looks like a very promising option. I'm not really sold on the white color, but I may be up for a change if the Flite is the best option out there for me.

The BB shell width is simply a preference cause I already am using 73mm bottom brackets on my current setup w/ two spare octalink bottom brackets matching that size. BB's are cheap to buy, so it's not a BIG deal, but it'd be kinda nice to utilize the parts I have in my stash.

Well, hit me with whatever you suggest, guys. Thanks much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Would you guys recommend I shoot for a full sus frame w/ a 1.5" headtube? I just bought a new fork, and I plan to keep it for quite a while and it's a 1 1/8 fork. But while I'm upgrading, I wonder if a 1.5" frame would be the way to go to open up any + all options for future fork upgrades, while still being able to use a reducer for my current fork.

Thoughts?
 

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Roasted said:
Would you guys recommend I shoot for a full sus frame w/ a 1.5" headtube? I just bought a new fork, and I plan to keep it for quite a while and it's a 1 1/8 fork. But while I'm upgrading, I wonder if a 1.5" frame would be the way to go to open up any + all options for future fork upgrades, while still being able to use a reducer for my current fork.

Thoughts?
I wouldn't NOT buy a frame because it was 1.125". Especially since things are going to tapered. Also, a 5" travel frame isn't going to use a full 1.5" headtube.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
bad mechanic said:
I wouldn't NOT buy a frame because it was 1.125". Especially since things are going to tapered. Also, a 5" travel frame isn't going to use a full 1.5" headtube.
I hate to ask a noob question, but what does tapered have to do with 1.125?

Are you thereby suggesting that cross country full suspension bikes won't be seeing 1.5" headtubes, and that it will primary be for down hill riders?

There's a ton... TON of 1.125 options for frames. But not nearly as many for 1.5" tubes. It's not that I want a 1.5" headtube. In fact, I'm very aware it's one of the last things I need. But I like to have foresight when I purchase items. If I can spend a few extra dollars today to help future proof my ride for tomorrow and give me more fork options if I ever upgrade again, then why not? But at the same token, if the chances of cross country full sus bikes going mainstream (or even growing in popularity) with 1.5" tubes are slim-to-zilch, then maybe it's nothing to even consider.
 

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Tapered headtube = 1.125" at the top and 1.5" at the bottom. The fork steerer is tapered with the same sizes. You can easily use any standard 1.125" fork in a tapered frame with a simple reducer for the bottom half.

1.5" has almost no chance of showing up on XC bikes in the future while tapered is quickly becoming very popular and very prevalent. 1.5" has been around for a long time on big hit bikes without making any real headway into XC/trail bikes
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
boomn said:
Tapered headtube = 1.125" at the top and 1.5" at the bottom. The fork steerer is tapered with the same sizes. You can easily use any standard 1.125" fork in a tapered frame with a simple reducer for the bottom half.

1.5" has almost no chance of showing up on XC bikes in the future while tapered is quickly becoming very popular and very prevalent. 1.5" has been around for a long time on big hit bikes without making any real headway into XC/trail bikes
Are tapered headtubes in XC bikes more popular at the present time? Since a headtube isn't something I can swap out, I just want to make sure I'm getting something as future proof as possible I suppose.

I didn't realize 1.5"'s had any age to them. I thought they were relatively new, sort of like this whole 10 spd jibberish.

As far as a standard 1 1/8 headtube goes, the Sette Ace has my eye, despite the yuck white color. But hey, couple cans of spray paint can remedy that. Are there any viable options for full sus frames w/ tapered headtubes that are pretty comparable to the Ace? Just trying to weigh any and all options. Thanks guys!
 

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lots of cannondales use 1.5 headtubes. 1.5 is better than 1 1/8th just for the sake of being able to run ANY fork on the market. theres always reducer headsets. i would have loved to pickup one of those 1.5 lyriks bikewagon had for 350!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
One Pivot said:
lots of cannondales use 1.5 headtubes. 1.5 is better than 1 1/8th just for the sake of being able to run ANY fork on the market. theres always reducer headsets. i would have loved to pickup one of those 1.5 lyriks bikewagon had for 350!
Right. The problem is finding a frame that A: Doesn't cost a fortune B: works with my travel fork C: has a 1.5" headset.

I'm finding close to nothing everywhere I look. The only one I found was a Kona, for like 1,500. Youch! I'll ride a hard tail for the rest of my life before I dump that kind of cash on a frame.

The more I read into it, the less relevant I'm thinking 1.5" headsets are going to be for my situation unless I take a nasty dive towards downhill biking. But again, just trying to have foresight and be as future proof as possible, even though I doubt it'll be any issue in this case...

Any frame suggestions? I'm not finding much...
 

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Unless you're buying a Cannondale don't worry about 1.5 headset, or you'll just frustrate yourself. Just buy the frame you want. Don't worry, you'll have plenty of fork choices.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
bad mechanic said:
Unless you're buying a Cannondale don't worry about 1.5 headset, or you'll just frustrate yourself. Just buy the frame you want. Don't worry, you'll have plenty of fork choices.
The only reason Cannondale's are 1.5" is due to the lefty fork, right?

I figured trying to get a tapered or 1.5" headset for a full sus XC bike was pushing it. But hey, I'm just trying to be open to all options. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Okay, this may sound very picky, but it IS a concern I have.

In the future, I plan on possibly moving to a larger fork with more travel. Currently I have a 120mm fork. The Ace calls for 100-120mm, which what I have is pushing it to the larger end of the spectrum there.

I was curious, are there any frames, similar to the Ace, that might support slightly higher travel? I just don't want to get a frame and not have the chance to upgrade to a Sektor or some sort of other fork that's upwards of 150mm down the road.

But what about the Flite - think 120mm fork on it is way too short? If so, is there a way to downsize the travel of the rear shock to make it geometry wise work better with my fork? No idea if that's possible - just talking out of my rear end for ideas I suppose...
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The more time goes on, the more I'm beginning to realize if I'm going to do this, I need to do it *right*.

I decided to post my thought process here so the more experienced users here can pick it apart and offer their opinion on it.

I have quite a few spare parts, and a slew of single speed gear I no longer touch. I was thinking I could get those few parts and turn my hard tail into a single speed bike. I would only need handlebars, stem, brake levers, and a new front hub to accommodate the fork's 20mm axle. I have everything else I need to make that bike into an SS bike, while still parting out the necessary parts to another bike. That being said, a sick combination for a full suspension XC bike would be the Sette Flite w/ RockShox Sektor. 150-160mm rear+front travel.

Ultimately, I would get two bikes out of the situation - a hard tail single speed w/ 120mm travel, and a full suspension cross country bike with 150-160mm front and rear travel.

What do you guys think? Despite the fact it would cost me a bit more than I originally wanted to spend... I originally wanted a full sus frame for less than 500, and the Flite frame is 430 + a Sektor fork would run me at least 350 minimum, do you guys think it's the best road to take to do things "right"?
 
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