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Shreddin the Cul de Sac
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Sorry for X posting this all over the place. I'm just hoping there's someone out there who has already dealt with this problem...

Anybody running full length cable housing to their rear derailleur on your FS bike?
How do you secure the derailleur cable housing?
Got pix?

I've got mine buttoned down with zip ties. I tuned out most of the ghost shifting on my first ride, but the cable was still wandering all over the place...

I'd love to see how it's properly done.
Someone please respond before I start chopping up the cable housing.
 

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Burpee said:
How do you secure the derailleur?
Got pix?
It's no different. Assuming you are using a Shi-mano RD, then you just put a loop in the cable, just like you would with a normal instal. I run mine along the chainstay with zipties, and then loop around into the RD.

I did not read the other X-posts, so this may be covered, but perhaps you could explain to us about the problem you are having. Maybe it is not related to the housing, but instead is related to the RD itself....
 

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Shreddin the Cul de Sac
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I looped it and zipped it as you describe. I have the zipties tightened down as tight as they will go, but the cable isn't secure enough. It pulls the cable through the zipties toward the back of the bike as the suspension cycles, increasing the size of the RD loop.

Maybe some black tape at strategic points would hold it more securely. I don't want anything too sloppy looking though.
 

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I don't have pics, but I'm running full housing to the RD on my enduro. I just used black duct-tape to secure it to the chainstay, no zip ties. I'm just about ready to drill out the cable stops though, shifting is so much better than it ever has been for me w/ full housing.

Burpee said:
Maybe some black tape at strategic points would hold it more securely. I don't want anything too sloppy looking though.
 

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I ride an enduro too. I agree.....

You can also use an old inner-tube to wrap the chain-stay. It serves as a protector AND will hold the cable in place. You can zip-tie or you can electrical-tape it into place....


I still don't understand from the OP what needs to be secured, unless you are talking about the cable (not the deraillure). If that is the case, then phil's or my solution will solve the problem.

If it is the RD that needs to be secured, then you've probably got other problems. (Perhaps a weak spring, or improperly adjusted B-tensioner....)
 

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Shreddin the Cul de Sac
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The cable housing is moving around.

Sorry I was unclear in my original post. I'm talking about the cable. The derailleur is fine. The cable housing is zip-tied to the seatstay and top tube (bike is a Turner Burner). The cable is secured down as tight as the zipties will allow, but as the suspension cycles, cable is being pulled rearward, increasing the size of the derailleur loop. I have innertube on the chainstay now, but cable is running up the seatstay. I guess I'll try the tape or innertube trick next.

bmateo said:
I ride an enduro too. I agree.....

You can also use an old inner-tube to wrap the chain-stay. It serves as a protector AND will hold the cable in place. You can zip-tie or you can electrical-tape it into place....

I still don't understand from the OP what needs to be secured, unless you are talking about the cable (not the deraillure). If that is the case, then phil's or my solution will solve the problem.

If it is the RD that needs to be secured, then you've probably got other problems. (Perhaps a weak spring, or improperly adjusted B-tensioner....)
 

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Yes, you can wrap the seatstay with a tube for extra traction... You might still zip tie the cable on the outside of the wrap, as it is a great way to really cinche it down hard.

(I like to use an old ultra-lite tube for this, as it is less thick, and therefore looks a little neater, and is less clumbsy to work with. I NEVER throw out old tubes anymore, I've found a million uses for them...)

I'm pretty sure you can also buy some inserts that go into the cable stops (eyelets? whatever they are called...) and allow the complete housing to pass through. These are made for bikes that convert from cable-actuated to hydro-disc brakes, but if you are using 5mm derailleur cable it should work just the same.

Nice bike by the way.

Good luck, let us know how it turns out.
 

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Shreddin the Cul de Sac
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491 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Worked like a charm

I was in kind of a hurry last night to be at the trailhead on time, so I didn't do the innertube wrap thing. But I did do the black electrical tape wrap. One down low by the cable stop at the bottom of the seatstay. One up at the top of the seatstay. And one more at the rear of the toptube, to give me a little slack for the suspension to cycle.

Worked great. Looks like hell. (Not really, since the frame is flat black.)

Thanks for the advice.

Burpee said:
Sorry I was unclear in my original post. I'm talking about the cable. The derailleur is fine. The cable housing is zip-tied to the seatstay and top tube (bike is a Turner Burner). The cable is secured down as tight as the zipties will allow, but as the suspension cycles, cable is being pulled rearward, increasing the size of the derailleur loop. I have innertube on the chainstay now, but cable is running up the seatstay. I guess I'll try the tape or innertube trick next.
 
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