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Angry bunny
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MtbFlorida Brian said:
im thinking of running full length housing on my SL but there isnt a proper cable routing system for this type of thing... is there anyway to run the full length housings with out zip tying the whole frame?
Problem Solvers bolt on cable guides cost about $10 via Performance and should solve your problem..

 

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Old man on a bike
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12,395 Posts
Yep, that can be a drawback, the ProblemSolvers route sounds like the better route for you. I do recommend you try full housing runs; my maintenance efforts have gone way down since switching (but fortunately my Heckler & Nomad both have the fittings that make it simple to do with zip ties).
 

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Please show some pics

Please show some pics of full housing setups. I also see that there are (2) versions of the bolt on type cable guides. One is shown above and the other here -- will either work for a full derailleur run? The one below is said to be adjustable while the black one has and open end?
 

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Justin Vander Pol
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1,720 Posts
I run full housing on all my bikes now and will never go back. Less fuss, less muss.

Also try getting 5mm cable housing rather than 4mm or 3.5mm shimano crap. Not sure why the "higher end" housings are smaller diameter, but the bigger stuff can go a lot longer with out getting all clogged up with goo or grit.
 

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Redwood Dancer
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93 Posts
MtbFlorida Brian said:
im thinking of running full length housing on my SL but there isnt a proper cable routing system for this type of thing... is there anyway to run the full length housings with out zip tying the whole frame?
I did that to my SuperLight when switching to cable DBs. I chose to drill out almost all the cable stops with a Dremel and a router bit, then finished them with a cone shaped grinder bit. Worked great, but you have to be careful to protect the frame from the 10,000 rpm bit. A several of layers of Duct tape work good. Deburr, of course. Touch up with paint or a Sharpie for ano. I think the drilled out job looks better than those hanger deals in the picture and is certainly stronger in case of a crash. Of course you can't go back to if you drill... but who would anyway?

Full cable rules, but one caveat. Where the rear shifter cable on the SL runs thru the little plastic inserted nipple guide in the vertical suspension triangle, it's then bare wire to the far cable stop on the chain stay... DON'T CABLE THAT OVER.

The rear axle movement on a SL is arc-like and rather primitive, ie single pivot. The cable wants to move around inside the housing in reaction to the upward suspension forces. Basically, you want to isolate any movement the cable may transmit to the rear derailleur when on rough trails. This bare section of wire does that very well. It'll keep your derailleur from 'ghost shifting' when things get rocky or you jump.

There's a web site that goes into excruciating detail on drilling and running cable. If your interested I'll try to find it again. I encourage you to try it... it's really very simple and takes about an hour to do the whole bike. And I barely ever use a Dremel.
 

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noMAD man
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12,220 Posts
SL full housing.

whangen said:
I did that to my SuperLight when switching to cable DBs. I chose to drill out almost all the cable stops with a Dremel and a router bit, then finished them with a cone shaped grinder bit. Worked great, but you have to be careful to protect the frame from the 10,000 rpm bit. A several of layers of Duct tape work good. Deburr, of course. Touch up with paint or a Sharpie for ano. I think the drilled out job looks better than those hanger deals in the picture and is certainly stronger in case of a crash. Of course you can't go back to if you drill... but who would anyway?

Full cable rules, but one caveat. Where the rear shifter cable on the SL runs thru the little plastic inserted nipple guide in the vertical suspension triangle, it's then bare wire to the far cable stop on the chain stay... DON'T CABLE THAT OVER.

The rear axle movement on a SL is arc-like and rather primitive, ie single pivot. The cable wants to move around inside the housing in reaction to the upward suspension forces. Basically, you want to isolate any movement the cable may transmit to the rear derailleur when on rough trails. This bare section of wire does that very well. It'll keep your derailleur from 'ghost shifting' when things get rocky or you jump.

There's a web site that goes into excruciating detail on drilling and running cable. If your interested I'll try to find it again. I encourage you to try it... it's really very simple and takes about an hour to do the whole bike. And I barely ever use a Dremel.
I had an '01 SL and sold it in '04 or so. It's been awhile, and I can't recall the piece you're describing as the plastic nipple guide. Just curious. I can't see why the SL is any different in responding to the benefits of full length housing from start to finish just a Bullit or just about any other bike. The Bullit has a similar rear design in many ways, and it definitely benefits from full housing. I definitely agree with drilling the cable stops. There's no reason not to have full housing anyway. Many bikes don't even have cable stops anymore...for good reason. Do you have a pic of that part of your SL you're referring to?
 

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Redwood Dancer
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93 Posts
TNC said:
I had an '01 SL and sold it in '04 or so. It's been awhile, and I can't recall the piece you're describing as the plastic nipple guide. Just curious. I can't see why the SL is any different in responding to the benefits of full length housing from start to finish just a Bullit or just about any other bike. The Bullit has a similar rear design in many ways, and it definitely benefits from full housing. I definitely agree with drilling the cable stops. There's no reason not to have full housing anyway. Many bikes don't even have cable stops anymore...for good reason. Do you have a pic of that part of your SL you're referring to?
Sorry, no pic. If you ever did your own cabling on the SL you'd remember the plastic guide. or nipple. It was a ten minute chore to get that sucker in the hole inside the u-channel. It kept falling off and rolling uder the shop bench or whatever. Wonder if they're still using them? Yeah, I still stand by my original idea of leaving the chainstay part ot the cable bare. I ran it both ways and much prefer to have it bare. (see my previous post)
 

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noMAD man
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12,220 Posts
Well, being old...

whangen said:
Sorry, no pic. If you ever did your own cabling on the SL you'd remember the plastic guide. or nipple. It was a ten minute chore to get that sucker in the hole inside the u-channel. It kept falling off and rolling uder the shop bench or whatever. Wonder if they're still using them? Yeah, I still stand by my original idea of leaving the chainstay part ot the cable bare. I ran it both ways and much prefer to have it bare. (see my previous post)
with a failing memory, I forgot about having an old pic of my '01 SL. After looking at that, I do recall something funky at that vertical portion of the swingarm where the cable went through the swingarm rather that on it or around it. Though not a closeup, this pic shows that spot and how it routes through the arm.

You may have misunderstood my question to you. I didn't say I had set up my SL with full length cable...just questioning why it wouldn't work. As I'm thinking about it, I guess my SL was the last bike I owned with segmented cable housing. It was also the last bike the I had with less than 5" of travel. My SL shifted fine, no ghost shifting. It wasn't until I had bikes in the 5" and longer range that I began to see signs of ghost shifting...for me personally anyway and from some other bikes that we've worked on through the shop. I would say this...you are right about trying to run full length housing through that particular SL model design. I think drilling out that hole and running housing through there could be problematic. If I was going to run it, I'd just go to the outside or inside of the arm and ziptie the housing along the swingarm tube until I got to the rear cable stop. That said, at 4" or so of travel, ghost shift was never as issue on this bike for me, though full length housing might have been nice for longevity and cable grit.
 

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Redwood Dancer
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Nice bike. Creative sort of colors.

TNC said:
with a failing memory, I forgot about having an old pic of my '01 SL. After looking at that, I do recall something funky at that vertical portion of the swingarm where the cable went through the swingarm rather that on it or around it. Though not a closeup, this pic shows that spot and how it routes through the arm.

You may have misunderstood my question to you. I didn't say I had set up my SL with full length cable...just questioning why it wouldn't work. As I'm thinking about it, I guess my SL was the last bike I owned with segmented cable housing. It was also the last bike the I had with less than 5" of travel. My SL shifted fine, no ghost shifting. It wasn't until I had bikes in the 5" and longer range that I began to see signs of ghost shifting...for me personally anyway and from some other bikes that we've worked on through the shop. I would say this...you are right about trying to run full length housing through that particular SL model design. I think drilling out that hole and running housing through there could be problematic. If I was going to run it, I'd just go to the outside or inside of the arm and ziptie the housing along the swingarm tube until I got to the rear cable stop. That said, at 4" or so of travel, ghost shift was never as issue on this bike for me, though full length housing might have been nice for longevity and cable grit.
Not to put to fine a point on the full cable issue but.... my one week old Nomad comes with the option to run full OR segmented cable housing. I think that was a clever solution to a problem that has adherents on either side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
k... so i got the problem solvers off an older bike and they kinda dont work with the SL. the rouned bullet shape of the housing bung doesnt give the screw something to tighten up against. also i cant tighten them down enough to keep them flush to the frame so they keep splaying out and the cable housings keep popping out of the "problem solvers". they just dont work on the superlight... im going to try the other one and see what kinad results come of those.
 

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noMAD man
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12,220 Posts
Problem solvers.

MtbFlorida Brian said:
k... so i got the problem solvers off an older bike and they kinda dont work with the SL. the rouned bullet shape of the housing bung doesnt give the screw something to tighten up against. also i cant tighten them down enough to keep them flush to the frame so they keep splaying out and the cable housings keep popping out of the "problem solvers". they just dont work on the superlight... im going to try the other one and see what kinad results come of those.
Yeah, depending on the cable housing location, the problem solvers don't have enough "bite" sometimes to truly secure the housing. However, on the "popping out" issue, you can usually use small zip ties to sort of clamp the problem solver closed. This doesn't always keep the housing from creeping in the clamp, but it keeps the housing from popping out. I've used zip ties either in an around or cross-wise pattern to achieve this. Not the most best-of-show method but functional nonetheless.
 

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