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Never trust a fart
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Go to Bicycle Wheel Warehouse. They can build you a set for a really good price with disc ready hubs.

For brakes, look for Avid BB7's if you are wanting to stay with mechanical style brakes. If you want hydraulics, then you have Shimano, Avid, Hope, Hayes, Formula to pick from.
 

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srwhouston said:
finding out now I may not be able to do this without upgrading the gears as well. rear wheel is a freewheeling wheel
I don't see the 5.0 on either the 2009 or 2010 website, but...

Any mountain bike disc wheelset will work fine for you, they all 'freewheel'. You may need a spacer behind the cassette, which would be on your current wheel anyway.
BB7 brakes + rotors for brakes (you can use your current brake levers, if desired). Something like shimano deore disc hubs w/ rhyno lite rims will be fine (cheap, bomber, if a bit heavy) & can be found for under $100 online (nashbar/performance, bicyclewheel warehouse, blueskycycling, jensonusa, etc etc). These are not usually handbuilt though, so should be checked for tension when you get 'em.
 

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www.thetexasoutdoors.com
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131 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
BOTTOM BRACKET: Square-type semi-cartridge, Steel

BRAKES: Linear-pull V-brake, Aluminum

CASSETTE: DNP 13-34T, 7-speed

CHAIN: KMC Z-51

CRANKSET: SR Suntour XCC-T102PBG, Aluminum/Steel 42/34/24T

FORK: SR Suntour M2000 w/ 50mm of travel

FRAME: 6061 Aluminum

FRONT DERAILLEUR: Sun Race, down-pull, 31.8mm

GRIPS/TAPE: Velo Kraton, Black

HANDLEBAR: MTB Steel, 610mm wide, 40mm rise, 25.4mm clamp

HEADSET: Ritchey, Steel

LEVERS: Aluminum levers for V-brake

PEDALS: Kraton body with Boron axle

REAR DERAILLEUR: Shimano Tourney TX RD-TX31, 6/7-speed

REAR SHOCK: NA

SADDLE: Fuji w/ Steel rails

SEATPOST: Fuji, 27.2, 350mm

SHIFTERS: SRAM MRX on right only, 3/7-speed

STEM: Aluminum/Steel, adjustable angle

TIRES: 26 x 2.1"

WHEELSET: Rims: Jalco XC-168 Aluminum w/ 36H; Hubs: Joy Tech Aluminum, sealed with QR
 

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Old man on a bike
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To convert that bike to discs is not very cost effective, and if the frame/fork don't have disc brake mount tabs then it's even less cost effective. Selling this one and buying one equipped with discs would probably be a better way to go.
 

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Cost effectiveness is in question, but the wheelset & disc brakes would easily move to another bike down the road.

What's the issue that you need disc brakes? We're talking almost the cost of your bike to do these upgrades (easily $200 for a decent wheelset & some bb7's). Some decent brake pads would go a long way towards better stopping power (ie. kool stop salmon's). Can you return the bike and put this money towards one of performance's bike's in the $400-500 range with better components & disc brakes?

The main thing is to be sure that your fork will take a disc brake. From the pic on performance's website, the fork does NOT have disc brake tabs, but the frame does for the rear. So, really, we need some pictures of your bike srwhouston. 1. a decent pic of the non-drivetrain side or 1.The back left of the fork and 2. the back left side of the frame, to see if there are tabs for disc brakes.
According to suntour's website, some of the M2000 forks have disc tabs, but they don't picture them.
 
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