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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
yogreg said:
That crankset/BB is pretty weak. I suggest cutting your losses and go with an XT set-up.
yogreg / Would I be able to use the FSA crank with that set up? Or is that also a weak link? Hook me up on what I need JSA style / MKIII expert bike. We are talking deore xt right not raceface x-type?
bronc
 

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Black Lion
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broncbuster said:
yogreg / Would I be able to use the FSA crank with that set up? Or is that also a weak link? Hook me up on what I need JSA style / MKIII expert bike. We are talking deore xt right not raceface x-type?
bronc
Here are some options for you.

Ditch the stock bottom backet and replace with something better like a Race Face diabolus x-type. This will work fine with your FSA cranks.
OR
Go with a Shimano XT BB/crankset. Uses the same outboard bearing set-up as your FSA's, just better in every way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
harky said:
Warranty??
harky
Called FSA they said that is normal about the rings coming apart in fact designed to do so. Purpose is to aid in setting crank tension at initial installation / what most people might call pre-load. The conclusion I drew from that would be after the rubber comes off the inner metal ring part of the o-ring you would be left with a very minute amount of slack.
 

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baggin ho's
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yogreg said:
Here are some options for you.

Ditch the stock bottom backet and replace with something better like a Race Face diabolus x-type. This will work fine with your FSA cranks.
I'm pretty sure that you can't use an x-type bb with your fsa cranks. you can however swap your bb bearings and cups to xt if you so desire but I don't know what the benefit would be in that.
The resistance on the external bb is goung to be greater than an internal due to the increased leverage with the larger bearing. a little play isn't a bad thing and isn't noticible. I think it compliments the loose heim joint perfectly!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
g-funk said:
I'm pretty sure that you can't use an x-type bb with your fsa cranks. you can however swap your bb bearings and cups to xt if you so desire but I don't know what the benefit would be in that.
The resistance on the external bb is goung to be greater than an internal due to the increased leverage with the larger bearing. a little play isn't a bad thing and isn't noticible. I think it compliments the loose heim joint perfectly!!!!
g-funk
Called FSA they said that is normal about the rings coming apart in fact designed to do so. Purpose is to aid in setting crank tension at initial installation...
Sound like a type of pre-load adjustment to me!

At least I have water bottle mounts on my '06. Going to test them out right now.
bronc
 

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Harky
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broncbuster said:
harky
Called FSA they said that is normal about the rings coming apart in fact designed to do so. Purpose is to aid in setting crank tension at initial installation / what most people might call pre-load. The conclusion I drew from that would be after the rubber comes off the inner metal ring part of the o-ring you would be left with a very minute amount of slack.
Bronc...Not sure I understand...
I've seen small o-rings on the crank shaft between the crank arm (or chainring hub) and the bearing. I have these on my FSA and on my XTR Hollowtech as well. I thought that this was some kind of dust seal. Are these what you are talking about? or are you referring to something inside the bearing itself?
I dont know how these would get chewed up as they normally rotate along with the bearing. Now if the bearing seized, then I can see that there would be a problem with the o-ring getting chewed up. Didn't you say that your LBS diagnosed a bearing problem??
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
harky said:
Bronc...Not sure I understand...
I've seen small o-rings on the crank shaft between the crank arm (or chainring hub) and the bearing. I have these on my FSA and on my XTR Hollowtech as well. I thought that this was some kind of dust seal. Are these what you are talking about? or are you referring to something inside the bearing itself?
I dont know how these would get chewed up as they normally rotate along with the bearing. Now if the bearing seized, then I can see that there would be a problem with the o-ring getting chewed up. Didn't you say that your LBS diagnosed a bearing problem??
Those are the o-ring I am talking about they look like all rubber but they have a little metal washer in the middle. I also asked that about being a dust seal. I guess they could get chewed up if you had too much slack between the bearings and the crank. Which to reduce binding/don't want to say set pre-load some people back their cranks out a hair. Didn't act like the dust would be a problem, which was one of my concern pos. damaging the spindle. If you are one of those who slackens your crank you pretty much eliminate that seal anyway. They may have been just telling me a story who knows?
 

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I ordered the FSA's from my local bike shop yesterday with confidence. It seems when the forum is taken in context with the reviews, they seem to be the favored choice vs XT Hollowtech. Maybe I'll get both and do a head to head. :D
 

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Harky
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Jodiuh said:
I ordered the FSA's from my local bike shop yesterday with confidence. It seems when the forum is taken in context with the reviews, they seem to be the favored choice vs XT Hollowtech. Maybe I'll get both and do a head to head. :D
Check the price and availability of chainrings for that XT Hollowtech. I have an '03 XTR Hollowtech and the replacement chainrings are VERY expensive. I could only get them from Shimano and they were different from the regularre XTR rings. The 2 replacement rings (44T & 32T) cost more than a complete new FSA V-Drive crankset. (Doah!) Maybe things have changed with the newer XT...
 

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Not every bike BB shell is 10/10ths the Standard. If you want your cranks dialed in, you're gonna have to work since you did choose to retro-fit. I put Team Issue Carbon Pro on my IronHorse HT, was worth the investment of time (making BB spacers) and specialty tools (caliper). And I factored in more spindle to get the longest use out of them. Also, any crank with a load bearing retaining bolt should be 'RED' Loctite'd, and only a very little bit. Too much can and will freeze up and ruin an aluminum bolt in a Cro-mo spindle. What I do for washer/o-rings is go to the local drug store and sneak into the feminine hair care aisle (wear a funny beard and big nose/glasses combo...) and find 'Goodys' hair tie backs. They are green/blue/purple/orange/yellow/pink. They are the biggest bang for your hard earned buck. Plus if a girl likes your look you can surprise her on your first date and remove the gear. If you're ugly... keep the get-up on.
 

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The spindle washers are just to prevent friction/creaking between two dissimilar metals. Gaskets if you will. The rubber coated metal unit is just for the lone arm; it is just that much smaller where if you force it on the drive-side arm you will mar the bearing race and that can lead to many problems.
 
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