[Monte]

thinking about a fat tire bike. did some searching today on the frames and forks. looks like 2 main ways to go, offset and non-offset.

it looks like for the rear if you go offset you'd use a 135 mm rear hub. non-offset you're looking at a 160 mm rear hub.

for the fork, offset you use a 135 mm hub. from what i found there's only what, 2 front hubs out in 135 mm spacing? Surly and Phil Wood? or is it Paul Components? unless you just use a 135 mm rear hub.

do i have this somewhat correct? living in nw wa state, thinking about a mud bike. on the cheap.

monte

 

[coastkid71]

hi,your right on your hub sizing but theres a few more singlespeed 135 hubs,there is made here in the UK `hope` and `DMR` which i think are both available worldwide also gusset and truvantiv make them, there mostly bolted axles not QR being intended for SS use and trials riding,if you buy a pugsley frameset you will get the offset fork for a 135 hub so you need the offset rims instead of normal centre laced ,the other frames you have seen that use a 160 or 165 hub are centre pull rims but there forks use a standard front hub,only the pugsley fork is offset..,some folk dont think its needed, i like the quirky looks of it and like 2 spare inner tubes instead of 1 you may need it one day...,
so if you go for the pugsley heres the miminum non standard parts you need;

pugsley frameset,
pair of offset rims, (your choice of width/make, 50mm - 100mm)
pair of surly endomorph 4" tyres (tubes can be surlys own or downhill tubes)
a standard 135 rear hub or gear hub (alfine etc...)
a rear singlespeed 135mm hub for the front,
a 100mm bottom bracket
E-type front mech if running gears on the cranks,
a rear brake caliper mounting bracket for the front brake to mount correctly on offset fork,

spend some time reading threads on here and pics of folks builds before getting the wallet out as some things like BBs /cranksets vary in price, ie philwood BB & middleburn crank arms are 3 times more expensive than truvantiv blaze cranks and isis giga BB,
in the UK cheapest pug build for the list above and wheel build would be about £750 then a doner bike for eveything else, try using sealed bearing hubs/headset if your going riding wet,sloppy mud,sand conditions, any questions just post up as plenty nice folk on here ready to help out :thumbsup:

 

[velopax]

Don't be confused with the hubs.
For a Pugs with it's asymmetric fork, you need a 135mm "rear" hub with offset rim.
The new 135mm "front" hubs are not compatible with a Pugs fork, they are designed
to fit in some symetric custom forks with 135mm spacing combined with a non offset rim

 

[racerxti]

Been down this road like few weeks ago. You have a ton of options, all have been reviewed in these forums. Here is a quick list, search forum for more details:

Surly Pugsley Asymmetrical 135mm - comes with the Pugsley frameset. You can swap front and rear wheels since both have offset. Popular choice, due to cost and emergency fixed rear hub. Can't use Paul WHUB...fyi

Surly Pugsley Symmetrical 100mm - only $120 extra, and uses standard front hubs. Popular choice for making a front fat bike, from standard 29er. I.E. Krate Monkey.

Custom Symmetrical 135mm - expensive option. You can't flip flop front and rear wheel. You build centered front wheel. Builders I've seen is Fatback and Black Sheep. Most options here are 1+ lbs lighter than stock pugsley fork.

Maverick SC32 100mm - nice option to add a little cushion to summer rides. Uses own through axel hub option.

Everyone has their own take on what fork is right for you. Choose one, and ride it. You'll love what ever you decide.

 

[Monte]

Cool, I didn't know about the symmetrical 100 mm fork. I don't need to be able to swap wheels so I'd just use the 100 mm fork.

 

[aljee]

for shits and giggles i plan on making the front wheel a fixed option (the rear is an alfine).
fyi, the disc/fixed hubs are few:
phil KISS hubs are almost $300 (36h or 32h)
paul word is about $160 (32 or 36h)
surly new hub $120ish (32h ONLY)

since i could only get 36h rims, i am looking at the paul hub.
getting a new fork would probably more expensive than just going stock and using a ss hub, if that's your angle. using a wider ss hub is better than an xt cassette hub or similar as it will produce a stronger wheel.

 

[Monte]

getting a new fork would probably more expensive than just going stock and using a ss hub, if that's your angle. using a wider ss hub is better than an xt cassette hub or similar as it will produce a stronger wheel.

True that.

I'm also looking at the stuff I've got laying around. Could probably come up with a rear 9 speed hub and a front 100 mm x 9 mm hub out of my spare parts, so I wouldn't need to buy any hub(s), just the fork. I could probably get a hub cheaper than the fork, but I've got the hubs in hand.