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FRM Pro chainring weights

3677 Views 14 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  sfer1
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Here's some weights of FRM chainrings...

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As comparison my titanium rings which have longer lifespan.

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Nino is it possible to mount the 42 at the middle ring position? Or are the bolt holes in the chainring not right for this so that the bolts aren't sinked in the ring? I'm looking for a light 42 ring for middle position, but needs to have shifting rings...
Ninko, TA makes 40t middle rings if that works.
FRM also makes a kit to use a 40 or 42T on the middle and a 27 or 26T on the granny...
26/40 and 27/42 are the 2x9 conversion kits you get from FRM.That's the rings shown above.They are supposed to be run on the inner two positions. What you also get with them are these red spacers which belong between the spider and the big ring in the middle position.

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Those rings look great, I'm looking for the 42T. Do you know where I can buy them and why should you add those red spacers?
Ninko said:
Those rings look great, I'm looking for the 42T. Do you know where I can buy them and why should you add those red spacers?
You have to add spacers when converting triple cranksets to double using the inner two positions to get the correct distance between inner and "middle" ring. Without spacers the chain might fall between chainrings when shifting.
Does anyone know what the weight is on the KCNC rings?
What the?

I have a set of hone cranks, with a 26th shimano and DMR 40th 9s ring waiting for me at home.

From the above posts does it mean they will not run correctly without the mentioned "spacer", I thought (perhaps wrongly) that the distance between the front chainrings was the same, both inner to middle and middle to outer. Have I got this wrong or is it a teeth difference problem?

any help would be great:madman:
The point of the red spacers isn't getting the correct distance between the inner and "middle" chainrings.

The assembly instructions say:
"On the outer side of the chainring spider, where the external chainring would usually be mounted, a special aluminium spacer with inlay for the head of the chainring fixing bolt should be placed. This spacer has the same thickness as the original outer chainring so it is possible to use the original chainring fixing bolts."
That was what I was thinking! The chainring is in the right position. Only your chainbolts are to long so the red spacers act like a normal chainring so you can use normal bolts... That's it! You don't have to fit them in between the ring and spider!
Ninko said:
That was what I was thinking! The chainring is in the right position. Only your chainbolts are to long so the red spacers act like a normal chainring so you can use normal bolts... That's it! You don't have to fit them in between the ring and spider!
I had to use spacers on my RaceFace cranks.But maybe that's just because of Mattais rings beeing thinner than "normal" rings? Anyway - most guys i know need such spacers otherwise the chain will fall between the chainrings when shifting.

But you are right-the red spacers of the FRM are placed on the outside.
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The spacers you are talking about are the silver ones



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According to the FRM website, the silver ones are only necessary for the XTR FC-M970 crankset.

"The 27 and 26t internal chainrings are to be mounted in the internal position where the 22t chainring would usually be mounted. These two chainrings are specific for assembly in this position. They have a 64mm BCD and fixing bolt inlay on the inner face. With XTR cranksets FC-M970 year 2007-08-09, insert 4 specific spacers (12-8x2mm) between the ring and the crankset."
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