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mstoddard
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59 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been riding SS for about 4 years (Gunnar Ruffian, now Spot)...my husband joined the club when he converted a Yo Eddy to a SS using the Gusset SS conversion kit. As a wedding present, I got him a SC Chameleon which he's building up as a SS/dirt jumper (to go with his two Bullits). I've always ridden a SS-specific rear hub with a freewheel and love it. When he rode the Yo Eddy using the Gusset conversion and cog, he had trouble with the cog "slipping" and cutting into the threads where a cassette would normally be. He's 6'1" about 200 lbs...question is what have people found a better system for a bigger guy. Freewheel or Cog? Suggestions on rear wheel builds?

Any help would be great...thanks.
 

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34N 118W
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2,246 Posts
hubba

lil' kid said:
...when he converted a Yo Eddy to a SS using the Gusset SS conversion kit.
what kind of hub is he using? King = soft metal and allows digging in of cogs. My (limited) experience is that Shinamo stuff is pretty tough and holds up to "cog dig" well, but those are the only 2 hubs I've run SS with.

If he does have a King hub, use a cog with a wider base on it, ala King, Boone, Surly(?), etc. Something to spread the love a little bit wider now across the cassette area, na sayin?

peace out
HW
 

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34N 118W
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2,246 Posts
but, but...

lil' kid said:
Actually, he doesn't have a back wheel yet...he's trying to decide which way to go...
you said:

lil' kid said:
When he rode the Yo Eddy using the Gusset conversion and cog, he had trouble with the cog "slipping" and cutting into the threads where a cassette would normally be.
that's what I was replying to.

IMO, converted cassette hubs are preferable to freewheels, unless he's planning on buying a beefy White Ind. freewheel. Cassette hubs offer more flexibilty to getting a straight chainline, and you can swap it to a geared bike if need be.

good luck-
HW
 

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mstoddard
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59 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
HW - He used the Yo Eddy as a "test" to see if he wanted to build up a SS...and he really liked it...but then he rode the Spot I built up (although it was too small for him) and saw how smooth a bike set up specifically for SSing could be. (shameless plug: the Yo Eddy frame is now for sale in the classifieds) ;)

Shiggy...he was using an old White Industries hub...if that helps.
 

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Premium Member
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48,238 Posts
lil' kid said:
HW - He used the Yo Eddy as a "test" to see if he wanted to build up a SS...and he really liked it...but then he rode the Spot I built up (although it was too small for him) and saw how smooth a bike set up specifically for SSing could be. (shameless plug: the Yo Eddy frame is now for sale in the classifieds) ;)

Shiggy...he was using an old White Industries hub...if that helps.
We are asking because of this comment: ..."he had trouble with the cog "slipping" and cutting into the threads where a cassette would normally be..."

This is usually because the freehub body is aluminum or titanium. I do not know if your husband's WI is steel or not (they make both). Chris King, Spicer and Boone make SS cogs with wider bases that do not dig in, mainly for use on the AL and Ti bodies. Most people do not "need" them for steel freehub bodies.

Long story short:
  • Use a regular gearie hub with spacers if you get a wide based cog.
  • If the WI hub does not have a steel body, you can use a cog like the Gusset kit.
  • Get a SS tread-on hub and freewheel
  • Get a SS cassete hub like the Novatech
 

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mstoddard
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59 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
We took a look and think the WI hub body is definitely aluminum...which may account for the slippage he ran into. Thanks for the suggestions...now he's just got to figure how he wants a rear wheel built up.
 

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No Reputation!
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1,727 Posts
Pluses and minuses

Just opinions but....

SS/cassette hubs=symmetrical build, should be stronger. shows your fully committed to the single speed life. easy to change cogs. limited selection, can be $$$

SS/freewheels=symmetrical build, fully committed, less $$$ than the ss cassettes, kindof hard to get the *&^%$# freewheel off when a 200# dude is cranking on it

"regular" hub/spacers/single cog=asymmetrical build...like most MTB rear wheels...and now front wheels too, shows you like to keep you options open (can run gears on the wheel if you want), can be less $$$ and still really good (shimano XT), easy to get the perfect chainline. might need a "fancy" (20$) wide-base cog if it is made of al or ti. In fact, the lack of SS specific design to show off to the rest of the peer group is about the only disadvantage. Want something really nice, get XTR (cheap compared to King).

I went with an XT hub and spacers on my latest wheel, had a Paul hub/freewheel prior.

Good Luck :)
 

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cassette for bigger guy

I'm 6'3" and 195-205 and switched from acs claws/ss specific hub to a converted cassette with king cogs. I did this to give me the ability to easily change my gear ratio. With the acs freewheel, it took 2 people with the freewheel in a massive vise to get it off the hub. Once I switched to a converted am classic hub/cassette, I definitely have 'dug' into the metal... but it works and I like the ability to actually change gears easily.
 

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resident crackpot
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483 Posts
Hey li'l kid

I just bought a White Industries Boxxer rear hub for building up my first rear wheel. The Boxxer hub has 130mm spacing and I bought new axle ends for it to bring it to 135mm...still waiting for it to get here for the build up. Anyway, I asked Lynette about replacing the freehub body in case it came with an aluminum one. All three materials Al, CrMo, and Ti are still available for the WI hubs, as are the axle ends because they use all the same stuff on the current models. I know that the WI stuff is killer, but just ogling this hub tells me that it will build up one insanely stiff rear wheel...I can't wait!
 

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