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viva la v-brakes!
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2,444 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got a crazy idea:

I've decided that the Talus X would be the perfect fork for my needs. But I am a devote v-brake fan, and don't want to deal with the cost, weight and ******** of disk brakes on my nice bike. So I was thinking, could it be possible to use the lowers from my current F100X and put it on the guts and uppers of a Talus X so I could have the best of both worlds?

Or is there a simpler option with some kind of canti mount you could strap on any fork?

Just thinking ahead for the future, couldn't afford a Talas X new anyway, I'd have to find one used, kind of like Dr. Frankenstein robbing the graveyard.
 

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aka dan51
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6,022 Posts
I was thinking about doing the same thing with my TALAS and VAN 130s, except it was to get rid of the v-brake bosses. Share what you learn with the rest of us.

-Dan
 

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carpe mañana
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7,308 Posts
FishMan473 said:
I've got a crazy idea:

I've decided that the Talus X would be the perfect fork for my needs. But I am a devote v-brake fan, and don't want to deal with the cost, weight and ******** of disk brakes on my nice bike. So I was thinking, could it be possible to use the lowers from my current F100X and put it on the guts and uppers of a Talus X so I could have the best of both worlds?

Or is there a simpler option with some kind of canti mount you could strap on any fork?

Just thinking ahead for the future, couldn't afford a Talas X new anyway, I'd have to find one used, kind of like Dr. Frankenstein robbing the graveyard.
The only way it is possible for the swap to not work is if one of your forks has the new chasis while the other has the old chasis. It does not fully disqualify the possibility, but it poses a potential issue if the lowers have a different height or the spacing between the stanchions has changed. Otherwise, they are interchangeable.

Keep in mind that the lowers from F series forks have a truss brace machined off from the arch which adds extra flex to the fork. It is not very pronounced at 80mm or 100mm of travel but at 130 you may notice your front end to be more susceptible to torsional forces, or twisting.

_MK
 

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MK_ said:
The only way it is possible for the swap to not work is if one of your forks has the new chasis while the other has the old chasis. It does not fully disqualify the possibility, but it poses a potential issue if the lowers have a different height or the spacing between the stanchions has changed. Otherwise, they are interchangeable.

Keep in mind that the lowers from F series forks have a truss brace machined off from the arch which adds extra flex to the fork. It is not very pronounced at 80mm or 100mm of travel but at 130 you may notice your front end to be more susceptible to torsional forces, or twisting.

_MK
Wrong again Flanders... I wish you actually knew what you were talking about.

If you've ever worked on a Fox fork, you would know that you don't have a clue as to what you're talking about. The bushing placement between 100 and 130mm forks is different. Also the truss isn't machied off of F-series lowers, it's just not cast into the molds.

Take a deep breath, realize that you don't know as much as you think you do, and then post a reply about how big of a jerk I am.

4,297 posts? maybe you should learn a little before you post more. Or better yet, ride your damn bike!
 

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carpe mañana
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7,308 Posts
C24C said:
Wrong again Flanders... I wish you actually knew what you were talking about.

If you've ever worked on a Fox fork, you would know that you don't have a clue as to what you're talking about. The bushing placement between 100 and 130mm forks is different. Also the truss isn't machied off of F-series lowers, it's just not cast into the molds.

Take a deep breath, realize that you don't know as much as you think you do, and then post a reply about how big of a jerk I am.

4,297 posts? maybe you should learn a little before you post more. Or better yet, ride you damn bike!
Whoa, whoa, whoa, did you forget to take your meds? Where's this hostility coming from?

I shouldn't bother, but I'm attaching a photo of the inside of the brace off my X100. You can see concentric grooves there, tell tale sign of a mill. It didn't come out on the photo, but there is a little circular mark, too, where I'd imagine the mill finished the cut.

You may be right about the bushings, I haven't made sure 100%, but by pure logic, my Vanilla could be set anywhere from 80 to 125 and I didn't have to move my bushings around, I don't see why they would be in different location.

Anyway, lets try to keep this forum civilized, eh?

_MK
 

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